What material to make shifter handle?
Close
Login to Your Account
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 23
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati
    Posts
    258
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    49

    Default What material to make shifter handle?

    For my anal 65 Fury 2 door cop car restoration with a 3 on the tree standard, I can't buy a handle and need to make it. It needs to be shiney plastic.

    I made 3 of them (was practicing) out of black polycarbonate and over time (from hours to months) all 3 cracked/split. The handle is pressed on to the shaft which has 2 nubs sticking out. The first ones cracked almost immediately in the are of the nubs, so I made it a looser fit. That seemed to have solved the problem.

    Gave the best one to the restoration shop and after a few months it totally split in an area not near the nubs. All 3 show some evidence of cracking.

    I tried making it out of Delrin, but it does not appear that Delrin can be polished to a good shine.

    Anyone have any suggestions for a different material?

    Unfortunately don't have pictures of the cracks readily available, but here is a picture of an original one.

    img_1294.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, New Hampshire
    Posts
    8,502
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2053
    Likes (Received)
    5915

    Default

    Black Delrin can be polished, but it should be machined with sharp tooling to as clean a finish as possible to begin with.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati
    Posts
    258
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    49

    Default

    I found a picture of 2 that I made. Left one was a good one that I made and right is one already showing signs of cracking. The left one ultimately cracked also after a few months.

    img_2074.jpg

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Cincinnati
    Posts
    258
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    5
    Likes (Received)
    49

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Milland View Post
    Black Delrin can be polished, but it should be machined with sharp tooling to as clean a finish as possible to begin with.
    Can it be polished to a high degree (not sure of the proper terminology)? When I tried to polish the Delrin, I got it to shine but it was still a dullish black not like the results of the polycarbonate.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Hillsboro, New Hampshire
    Posts
    8,502
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2053
    Likes (Received)
    5915

    Default

    It may depend on your version of "shine". What methods did you use on your previous part?

    This older thread may help, some good advice, some "not so good"...

    Shining up delrin

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    5,886
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    590
    Likes (Received)
    2698

    Default

    Cool to have a C body with a three on the tree...

    I'd use metal and get it coated in Teflon black. To hell with plastic lol. Or better yet, use bone or horn.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Pennsylvania
    Posts
    203
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2
    Likes (Received)
    100

    Default

    Ebonized fruitwood. Apple or pear is what i think they used to veneer old Engish ebonized clock cases.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Hudson Valley, NY
    Posts
    991
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    615

    Default

    Try ABS. Cheap and shiny.

  9. Likes MrWhoopee liked this post
  10. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    marysville ohio
    Posts
    9,617
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2762
    Likes (Received)
    6401

    Default

    Make it out of 6061T6. polish it to a mirror shine then black anodize it.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    California
    Posts
    160
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    26
    Likes (Received)
    44

    Default

    Id look into some of the old "plastics" like paper micarta or maybe Bakelite.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Modesto, CA USA
    Posts
    7,186
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    1226

    Default

    I wonder if the original was molded in place over the shaft. this would greatly reduce stress and the possibility of cracking. maybe bore it to a slip fit and fill with epoxy to install.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Idaho
    Posts
    3,166
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1749
    Likes (Received)
    2064

    Default

    Metal,then take a pick of a variety of coatings.Really cool shit out there these em days

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Houston
    Posts
    5,886
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    590
    Likes (Received)
    2698

    Default

    Yes, I am pretty sure the orignals were molded on the handle.

    The more I think about this, the more I like my bone/horn idea. While metal is usually better, in this case the coldness can be less than inviting. Most larger cities have a zoo that should provide an ample source for a variety of exotic horn. You only need a little.

  15. Likes Hazzert liked this post
  16. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Sussex, England
    Posts
    3,429
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    12
    Likes (Received)
    761

    Default

    Agree these things would have been moulded in place from some sort of thermoplastic resin. A completely routine process back in notes day. These days folk making similar control levers claim to use acetal resin based (POM) technopolymer, what ever that might be, and similar compounds.

    Bakelite and other phenolic resins are still used for highly polished knobs. If the knob is separate from the shaft rather than formed in place it is said that you must use a threaded insert. Cast phenolic resin can be polished after mating to a high finish. I imagine that the ultra fine abrasive papers could be used these days rather than the pumice stone most older references call for.

    Clive

  17. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    People's Republic
    Posts
    3,908
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    347
    Likes (Received)
    2469

    Default

    polycarbonate is allergic to gasoline and other such things, which will cause it to crack

    what did you use for cutting fluid?

    make it out of anything and paint it gloss black and clear it

  18. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Angier, North Carolina
    Posts
    2,622
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    1125
    Likes (Received)
    990

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by APD View Post
    Try ABS. Cheap and shiny.
    I thought about ABS when I first read the OP ... but then I remembered that ABS breaks down fairly rapidly in UV. I think. Whether or not there would be enough UV getting through the car windows is another question.

  19. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    People's Republic
    Posts
    3,908
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    347
    Likes (Received)
    2469

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by awake View Post
    I thought about ABS when I first read the OP ... but then I remembered that ABS breaks down fairly rapidly in UV. I think. Whether or not there would be enough UV getting through the car windows is another question.
    I think black ABS is probably OK

    Well, hey I just made a black ABS shield to cover a ldpe tank that the sun eats up, so I guess I will find out

  20. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    California, Central Coast
    Posts
    4,089
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    2234
    Likes (Received)
    1605

    Default

    Dont press them on to the shaft, it seems the constant pressure will crack it no mater how light the press fit. Use some sort of epoxy in an oversize hole and your cracking troubles should be over. You might even cast the entire handle in place black epoxy?

  21. Likes henrya liked this post
  22. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    near Seattle, Washington, USA
    Posts
    1,456
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    501
    Likes (Received)
    800

    Default

    How about a castable urethane?

  23. Likes awake liked this post
  24. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Modesto, CA USA
    Posts
    7,186
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    1226

    Default

    Solid ,cast in place, gold should polish up nicely.
    Bill D

  25. Likes awake liked this post

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •