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Thanks for the suggestions.
Here's my next question, how many "steps" are recommended to get to 31/32? At least, how many pilot holes should be drilled before the final bore of 31/32" The material is mild steel, so nothing exotic or difficult to work with....using a South Bend 16" lathe.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Here's my next question, how many "steps" are recommended to get to 31/32? At least, how many pilot holes should be drilled before the final bore of 31/32" The material is mild steel, so nothing exotic or difficult to work with....using a South Bend 16" lathe.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Here's my next question, how many "steps" are recommended to get to 31/32? At least, how many pilot holes should be drilled before the final bore of 31/32" The material is mild steel, so nothing exotic or difficult to work with....using a South Bend 16" lathe.
When did boring bars go out of favor? Seems like the right tool for this job. Always concentric and on-axis, size is adjustable for fit.
Regards.
Mike
I appreciate all the advice and suggestions!
I was able to get the collar bored/reamed, but it was not without its difficulties. Of course, the issues weren't with any of the tooling, but with the lathe itself. Primarily, the morse taper adapters were spinning in the tailstock. The Jacobs chuck that came with the lathe is 3/4" capacity, but with a MT2 taper...which in turn is sleeved into an adapter to work in the South Bend MT3 tapered quill. At first, the chuck was spinning in the adapter, but I was able to remedy that problem. However, once that was fixed, it begin spinning in the SB quill. The chuck and the adapter looked fine, the big problem (at least best I can tell) is the bore of the quill feels scored/scratched.
Any suggestions on fixing the quill issues? Would I be better off replacing the entire quill itself, or picking up an MT3 reamer set and trying to clean it up?
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