What's the best way to attack a hex hole on a slotter? - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by digger doug View Post
    Quick layout shows 1/16" corners, use .250 endmill will leave .041 sliver to file off.
    typical socket would use lot larger corner radius and its placed differently:

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattiJ View Post
    typical socket would use lot larger corner radius and its placed differently:
    Yabutt....The OP didn't list any corner relief as a requirement, so I use it as a loophole
    to make it easier to machine.

    Don't take this simple hex hole to extremes.

  3. #23
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    I did a practice piece of 6061-T6 and it worked well. The cutter was a 1/4” square Prat & Whitney cutter from eBay. I put a healthy chamfer on the leading edge, but still got slight over-cut at the mouth as you can see by the pattern left from the pre-bored hole. The method won’t win any speed contests.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  5. #24
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    I'd love to have a slotter.I don't but have a few common size hex broaches and a key seater which are useless for blind holes.
    However I do keep some broken center drills to make various tools out of.
    A little grinding and have a nice radius tool on one end and a broaching tool to use in the mill along with the hex block.Quick and easy.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20200113_073325.jpg   20200113_073014.jpg  

  6. #25
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    If you play with the front clearance angle on your tool, you can eliminate that overcut to a certain extent. Also adding some top clearance will help if its rubbing on the top.

  7. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan from Oakland View Post
    If you play with the front clearance angle on your tool ...
    But you might go blind


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