Nelp help on installing rivets

jackal · Jun 22, 2011

I have a customer that has some old equipment using flat belt drives.

He asked me about installing these rivets:

The rivets are #10 ( about 1/8" dia. shank)
You cant get to the back of it very well becasue of the hub. This drive wheel is about 8" dia and has another step on it, too.

They want (8) rivets on each pulley to hold on the rubber tread. The tread is about 5/16" thick and the metal on the wheel is about 5/16".

Here is a drawing of the wheel:

I have seen people using rivet machines that were similar to a open knee sewing machine :confused:

But I never really payed much attention.

Thanks for the info,

JAckal :cheers:

jackal · Jun 22, 2011

I saw this video, but cant really tell what the anvil looks like.

YouTube - ‪Installing Aircraft Solid Rivets‬‏

JAckal :cheers:

Mike Folks · Jun 22, 2011

jackal · Jun 22, 2011

Thanks Mike,

There is some good info there.

JAckal :cheers:

Powerpooche · Jun 22, 2011

When I worked at the local vinager works we use to lag the drums and pulleys with drive screws. Worked well!

P.O.
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Winterfalke · Jun 22, 2011

When I had to install solid rivets for military simulators, I preferred to use a hand squeezer.
Hand Squeeze
Of course, a pneumatic squeezer would be much easier if you can afford it.
Pneumatic Squeezes
The manual method, if you are far enough from an edge that you cannot squeeze the rivet, is to buck it. In this case you hold a die head or bucking bar behind the tail and hammer the head with a rivet gun until the tail has sufficiently expanded.
Rivet Guns
Bucking Bar (690)
Having a rivet gauge is handy for telling when the tail is the proper size, although there are charts telling you what the ideal diameter and hight are for each size and style of rivet. Also, if you can find them, I believe Disney did a series of training videos on how to properly install flush rivets in aircraft applications for WW2.

jackal · Jun 23, 2011

Thanks guys,

Powerpooche,

When he called me, I was thinking about the long strips of rubber lagging that we used to put on rollers. We would put the roller in the lathe and spiral wind the lagging on and put concrete nails it it.

There are round bands. Like mounting a tire on a rim.

Winterfalke,

That rivet gun and bucking bar is what would have to be used.

He called me last night and said they just bent the rivets over.

Would a regular air chisel/hammer work with the right punch in it?
Maybe a tube or guide to keep it on the rivet?

Just a thought in case something comes up again.

JAckal :cheers:

i_r_machinist · Jun 23, 2011

Standard pop rivet out of the question?
i_r_machinist

thruthefence · Jun 23, 2011

What is the rivet material? A rivet sets by "swelling" in the drilled hole in the materials being rivets. The problem is, when you try to join a hard part (the wheel, in this case) with a soft part, eg the rubber tread, it will bend or swell excessively in the softer material.

I've never had much luck with this sort of thing except by using "dead soft" 1100 aluminum "A" rivets. Even then, it's hard to get a good bucked head.

You might have better luck with hollow rivets, like they use for brake shoes. Instead of upsetting the buck tail, there's a die that swells the hollow rivet from the inside, and peens over the 'buck tail'.

here's one:

McMaster-Carr

and somemore:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#6667a/=cvg7wb

Upon closer reading of the OP's question, I see there is no access to the back of the wheel;

and also, looking at the rivet, and it's taper at the end of the shank, and the fact it's copper, leads me to believe this is a simple drive type fastener, a glorified nail. Holds by the deformation of the shank as it's driven in.

Find out who makes the rivet, and get the tolerance for the drilled hole. I don't think it's meant to be bucked at all.

Limy Sami · Jun 23, 2011

Bifurcated rivets could be another option.

jackal · Jun 23, 2011

I suggested the countersunk head pop rivets. It it was my parts that would be the way to go.

I'll get these ideas together and present them to him. This is something they will need from time to time.

Their maintenance man quit about a month ago and they have a production supervisor filling in.

Their last maint. man used countersink head screws. That worked for a while, but started to chew up belts when thing started to wear.

These rubber bands that attach to the wheel are pretty hard rubber. Softer than any metal, but more like a car tire thread.

Thanks for all of the ideas & suggestions.

JAckal :cheers:

MachinistChest · Jun 23, 2011

Rivets and burrs

Jackal.

That type of rivet is used with a burr, It`s basically a flat washer that presses on or is a close fit on the shank.That`s what the tapered end is for.

...MC

jackal · Jun 23, 2011

MC,

Thanks for the info. I thought it would take a lot to mushroom the end of that, but my only experience is with pop-rivets.

Sami,

I'm glad you mentioned "Bifurcated rivets". A friend of mine last year was looking for some rivets to do a project with, and was talking about those, but neither of us knew the name. He was calling them split end.

Thanks,
JAckal :cheers:

Limy Sami · Jun 23, 2011

For those still none the wiser - as I often am

Bifurcated Rivets

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