DME's catalog is a good place for common mold frame design, but not all molding machines have the knockouts in the same locations so you may want to confirm with the molder. The knockout location issue may have changed some in the last 25 years, it's something that bit my in the ass when I started making molds at home. I learned the trade by doing, I did everything involved from part design to running the press in production with our 200 ton press. My employer was a mold maker and the part design was driven by need, it was all structural sailboarding components. Common design rules for mold making were something I learned after I learned the trade, thankfully, as they are almost all complete BS. Common wisdom on draft, amount of ejection needed, wall thickness variation in a part, family molds of vastly differing size parts, etc have nothing to do with reality, in my experience. 90% of getting a mold to work well are gate design and good cooling, with gate design being most of that. Really, learning by doing is critical to making molds that run well. The best information I ever got was through the material suppliers, Dow and Dupont have some really good design manuals. Sorry but I don't know of any books. If you do find some books read them through completely, but do not blindly believe anything they say, there really are no hard and fast rules. As I said earlier it is very complicated, everything is interdependent, and can change quite a bit depending on what resin you are using, without even getting into compensating for shrinkage.
Maybe talk to some of the big resin suppliers in your area to see what info they can offer.