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  1. #21
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    Have you used them yet? They appear to be unbranded, my first guess would be they are cheap Chinese, but maybe not. The photos look like well finished tools, but the photos could be a competitors product.

    I could tell a story about seeing my own product with ID marks on it being represented as being made in China.

    Let us know how they work.

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    YG-1 is a South Korean company. They make good tools.

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    After I bought an indexable spot drill I shortly ordered more for other machines and don't think I've purchased a regular spot drill since....

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    Quote Originally Posted by FredC View Post
    Have you used them yet? They appear to be unbranded, my first guess would be they are cheap Chinese, but maybe not. The photos look like well finished tools, but the photos could be a competitors product.

    I could tell a story about seeing my own product with ID marks on it being represented as being made in China.

    Let us know how they work.
    I've used other YG1 tools with good luck, haven't ordered these yet.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike1974 View Post
    An 8 year quest to find a cheaper spot drill...?!
    Conquering a pet peeve knows no bounds.

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    Well, I'm glad to see the result. I hate to spend extra $ on something that shouldn't be that pricey!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hardplates View Post
    After I bought an indexable spot drill I shortly ordered more for other machines and don't think I've purchased a regular spot drill since....
    What'd you go with?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cole2534 View Post
    What'd you go with?
    I have a couple Ingersoll 90 degree ones. I also have a $100 SpeedTiger one off amazon that came with 5 inserts and it honestly works just fine.

    Being single flute you feed half the speed but being carbide I spin them way faster so they end up being quicker than a standard HHS 2 flute. They also work well for chamfering although you can't go as fast as a multi flute tool.

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    I have also wondered this. I used a 1/4 spotting drill for years until it went dull and I started looking at buying more to replace it. I ended up buying a bag full of new center drills for the cost of 1 new spotting drill. Another thing I don't understand is the cost of stub drills, why are they more expensive than a jobber set? Ok they make more jobber sets, but its like half the material, half the grinding/milling to make them.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blazemaster View Post
    I have also wondered this. I used a 1/4 spotting drill for years until it went dull and I started looking at buying more to replace it. I ended up buying a bag full of new center drills for the cost of 1 new spotting drill. Another thing I don't understand is the cost of stub drills, why are they more expensive than a jobber set? Ok they make more jobber sets, but its like half the material, half the grinding/milling to make them.
    One man's opinion, because they honestly work better where you can use them and not need the extra flute. Not being snarky here either.
    I imagine the time difference and material cost difference is so negligible that it is not a factor.

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    A question about spotting drills: If you go deep enuf to leave a small chamfer on the final drilled hole, does it compromise accuracy? Say for a 1/4" hole, spotting to 9/32 diameter?

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    What if you cut off most of the flures of an HSS drill and then ground the tip to 90 degrees, thinning the web as needed? Should be easy if you own a drill grinder.

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    Quote Originally Posted by richard newman View Post
    A question about spotting drills: If you go deep enuf to leave a small chamfer on the final drilled hole, does it compromise accuracy? Say for a 1/4" hole, spotting to 9/32 diameter?
    Depends on your point angles and materials. We run brass and aluminum all day and use carbide sopt drills at 90deg and it works fine for us. If you are cutting something harder, it would do well (IMO) to match the drill point and spotting drill angle... that said, I think you can use a 140deg spot for a 130deg and 140deg point drill, the spot angle can be slightly shallower... maybe? (now I am confused! LoL)

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    Quote Originally Posted by richard newman View Post
    A question about spotting drills: If you go deep enuf to leave a small chamfer on the final drilled hole, does it compromise accuracy? Say for a 1/4" hole, spotting to 9/32 diameter?
    Not that I've seen. The above is my method for drilling tap holes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by metalmagpie View Post
    What if you cut off most of the flutes of an HSS drill and then ground the tip to 90 degrees, thinning the web as needed? Should be easy if you own a drill grinder.
    You'd likely get into the area that is not hard.

    Quote Originally Posted by Blazemaster View Post
    . . .I ended up buying a bag full of new center drills. . .
    You can get good spotting drills that are much longer than a typical center drill. They are essential for getting into places where the quill prohibits use of a center drill.

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    almost everything is cheaper by the ton. that is if you buy in larger quantities price goes down considerably.
    .
    you buy 1000 at a time and dont be surprised you pay less than 40% the cost than if you bought one at a time. many tooling distributors give a bulk yearly discount to shops who order over a million dollars in tooling per year. big shops might be paying less than 50% what a small customers pays.
    .
    its like buying a pipe fitting or elbow. $50. each to anybody, but only $15. each for professional plumbers to buy same item

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    Quote Originally Posted by richard newman View Post
    A question about spotting drills: If you go deep enuf to leave a small chamfer on the final drilled hole, does it compromise accuracy? Say for a 1/4" hole, spotting to 9/32 diameter?
    I have not noticed it compromising accuracy. But then again if hole location is critical, I am using a carbide drill/interpolating/boring for location.

  21. #38
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    you ever measure position of hole thats done with a dull spot drill especially if its a long spot drill ??
    .
    dull spot drill can make a off position spot easily. when .005" off it often goes unnoticed. but before you notice a spot that greater than .010" off there could have been many other spots made off position easily over .005".
    .
    just saying spot drill used too long and is dull doesnt make very accurate spot locations

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  23. #39
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    Right on! And I might add 'precisely ground' to the sharp requirement. I'm sure some of you guys are magicians and can hand-grind spot drills, but I can't, and since I don't have precision grinding capabilities in the shop I have to buy new spotters when they get dull.

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    I grind spotting drills out of broken centerdrills all the time.


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