Wohlhaupter UPA2 Boring & Facing Head - MT2 adapter?

Terry Keeley · Sep 2, 2020

Searching around I thought they were all integral on the UPA2 but I see one for sale that looks like it has a screw on Moore adapter.

Any ideas?

LexD · Sep 3, 2020

UPA3 and above were definitely available with interchangeable shanks, not sure about the 2.

eKretz · Sep 3, 2020

Maybe someone made it? All the removable shank UPAs I've seen use the differential screw mount, which is just a piloted fit and a screw down the center of the shank through a hole. - the small Moore adapters aren't big enough on their minor diameter in the square threaded section for a hole that would fit a hex wrench of any substance.

Terry Keeley · Sep 3, 2020

Thanks for the reply's.

Pretty sure it's not home brew: Wohlhaupter UPA2 Boring & Facing Head with Moore Adapter Germany | eBay

Old brochure seems to suggest MT2: Wohlhaupter UPA Boring and Facing Heads

eKretz · Sep 3, 2020

Does look like some sort of taper shank. The slots in the Moore adapter suggest it is a female taper - those are almost certainly for a drift.

trevj · Sep 4, 2020

Yep!

Bog standard MT2 shank inside a Moore adapter. From the one pic showing the cross hole, they did not go to the trouble of screwing a removable tang on to the taper shank of the UPA2, so some careful wedge work may be required to separate them.

I got a pretty good buy on a UPA2 out of England, that someone had slid a taper sleeve of some sort on to, and then ground it to a straight shank. It wasn't done very pretty, and there was some slight rust showing, but all in, nothing that affected it's function.

Terry Keeley · Sep 4, 2020

trevj said:
Yep!

Bog standard MT2 shank inside a Moore adapter. From the one pic showing the cross hole, they did not go to the trouble of screwing a removable tang on to the taper shank of the UPA2, so some careful wedge work may be required to separate them.

I got a pretty good buy on a UPA2 out of England, that someone had slid a taper sleeve of some sort on to, and then ground it to a straight shank. It wasn't done very pretty, and there was some slight rust showing, but all in, nothing that affected it's function.

So the Moore adapter is just pressed onto the MT2 shank? And you "should" just have to tap a drill drift into the slot to separate them?

trevj · Sep 4, 2020

Terry Keeley said:
So the Moore adapter is just pressed onto the MT2 shank? And you "should" just have to tap a drill drift into the slot to separate them?

You should, IF there was a removable tang installed in the drawbar threads (they are out there).

But if there was a tang installed, it would be visible in the hole, thus, it is going to take a little jiggery pokery with some other wedges to remove the adapter from the original shank of the UPA2. The easy way is between the base of the Moore adapter and the root of the MT2 taper of the UPA2.

Think along the lines of a matched pair of low angle wedges along the lines of those used to separate some Jacobs Chucks from their arbors, essentially U shaped cuts in a sloped surface that you can squeeze together with a clamp or vise (maybe a vise, if she has great thighs!) :P

Really, something you should be able to bang out freehand on a mill in a few minutes.

Terry Keeley · Sep 5, 2020

trevj said:
You should, IF there was a removable tang installed in the drawbar threads (they are out there).

But if there was a tang installed, it would be visible in the hole, thus, it is going to take a little jiggery pokery with some other wedges to remove the adapter from the original shank of the UPA2. The easy way is between the base of the Moore adapter and the root of the MT2 taper of the UPA2.

Think along the lines of a matched pair of low angle wedges along the lines of those used to separate some Jacobs Chucks from their arbors, essentially U shaped cuts in a sloped surface that you can squeeze together with a clamp or vise (maybe a vise, if she has great thighs!) :P

Really, something you should be able to bang out freehand on a mill in a few minutes.

Not really understanding the "removable tang" part, from the pics in the brochure it looks like the MT2 arbor doesn't use a draw bar and just has a tang on the end like a drill press arbor?

gbent · Sep 5, 2020

If you are referring to the head on the bay, the aspect ratio suggests to me the taper shank on the Wolly is shorter than a standard MT2.

eKretz · Sep 5, 2020

I think that is a plain old normal length MT2, but now having a better look at it, the slot looks like it is for retaining rather than ejecting, so you may need the wedges that trev described to separate it. You'd have to see exactly how the slots line up to each other to say for sure, but from that picture it looks like trying to use a drift would only pull the boring head in tighter.

Terry Keeley · Sep 5, 2020

eKretz said:
I think that is a plain old normal length MT2, but now having a better look at it, the slot looks like it is for retaining rather than ejecting, so you may need the wedges that trev described to separate it. You'd have to see exactly how the slots line up to each other to say for sure, but from that picture it looks like trying to use a drift would only pull the boring head in tighter.

I'm glad someone else is seeing that too, I looked at it long and hard and figured a drift wouldn't do it.

I've asked the seller if he can remove the adapter, I'd need to see what's underneath before I consider it...

dian · Sep 6, 2020

i often succeed in removing a taper without tang by inserting a bearing ball (or something else)and using a drift as usual.

thermite · Sep 6, 2020

Terry Keeley said:
I'm glad someone else is seeing that too, I looked at it long and hard and figured a drift wouldn't do it.

I've asked the seller if he can remove the adapter, I'd need to see what's underneath before I consider it...

I tried zooming and could still get only a HINT as to it being an adaptor "maybe". Flats for a wrench hint at removable?

As to the tapered portion, no adapter assured. It could as easily be all of a piece and you are looing at the locking drift azure, hor-bore spindle style, and put there for the same reason.

Might be less of a risk to just move-on to another less mysterious Wallbanger, Narex, Gamet?

Or - if yah can FIND one - even a Chandler-Duplex?

I got mine! Straight shank. And 'native' NMTB 40 collets to match.

eKretz · Sep 6, 2020

dian said:
i often succeed in removing a taper without tang by inserting a bearing ball (or something else)and using a drift as usual.

By the look of it, that won't work here unless three bearing balls are used. The outer drift slot is lower than the inner at the rear. Using just one ball with a drift would merely lock the drift in place in the inner slot.

eKretz · Sep 6, 2020

thermite said:
I tried zooming and could still get only a HINT as to it being an adaptor "maybe". Flats for a wrench hint at removable?

As to the tapered portion, no adapter assured. It could as easily be all of a piece and you are looing at the locking drift azure, hor-bore spindle style, and put there for the same reason.

Might be less of a risk to just move-on to another less mysterious Wallbanger, Narex, Gamet?

Or - if yah can FIND one - even a Chandler-Duplex?

I got mine! Straight shank. And 'native' NMTB 40 collets to match.

The wrench flats are for the outer Moore adapter - those screw in. Pretty safe bet it's an MT2 inside there.

thermite · Sep 6, 2020

eKretz said:
The wrench flats are for the outer Moore adapter - those screw in. Pretty safe bet it's an MT2 inside there.

IF.. one wants it badly enough.. yah can slice it into segments, longitudinally.

Wotever is INSIDE can be dealt with, too. Regardless.

Just a question of what it's worth. A larger Chandler-Duplex than the two smallest sizes I already have - or mayhap a Tree with taper capability?

I'd take the risk.

Wallbangers are nice, but not so "rare" nor absent of decent competition as to motivate me to bother.

"YMMV"

Terry Keeley · Sep 7, 2020

Found another thread, they seem to think it's an adapter too but not sure:

FS Wohlhaupter Boring Head on Moore Taper

Here's one that has a straight shank, WTF?

Here's one with a Shaublin adapter:

thermite · Sep 9, 2020

Terry Keeley said:
Here's one that has a straight shank, WTF?

Straight shank is the only tail type I care to own.

More than one place to mount and use the goods.

As all are only "problem solvers", neither heavy use, nor even frequent use, I don't mind having to be a tad more careful.

eKretz · Sep 9, 2020

What I want to know is who the lucky bastard was that got the UPA2 for $50!? At least that's the price tag on it in the 2nd to last picture.

Wohlhaupter UPA2 Boring & Facing Head - MT2 adapter?

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