Work Holding/Pocket Milling Question

Hi guys. I've been reading these forums for years and learned a lot, but I'm still a home gamer and very much still learning. I was hoping I could get some help on a project I have that requires milling a series of parallelogram pockets into a round bar. I'm not sure the actual dimensions of either the bar or the pocket matter, as I'm more concerned about how to actually set up and machine the pockets. But I may be wrong in that. The picture should give a good idea of what I'm trying to accomplish.

Tools I have to work with:
Bridgeport clone (Lagun FTV2) manual mill with a DRO
4" vise
Rotary table (with a tailstock)

Thanks for the help!

James

What material?
Relative size (are they .25" wide or 8")?
Depth?
Do the corners have to be sharp or can they have a radius?

Building your own noise remover?

The material is 17-4PH at 1.75” OD. The pockets are give-or-take 0.75”x1.5”. The corners will be radiused according to the end mill I’m using. The pockets will go completely through the part.
I can chuck it up in a vise and take all the cuts I want along the long axis of the part, but consistently turning the part to mill the angles on the adjacent faces is puzzling.
I could always peck a flat with an end mill, then drill the corners, end use those corners with some pins to indicate the flats parallel. But having to move the work back to whichever pin is the start point each time seems unnecessary if there is a simpler way.

Yep. I've had the stamp for a while, but I've been trying to make sure it's exactly what I want before I make it.

Definitely not easy, but with a DRO and a rotary table, entirely possible. And caveat to say I've never done anything like this, but if I had to, here's what I would do.

Set vise on rotary table. Indicate it parallel with the X axis.
Place bar in vise.
Mill the short sides of the pockets all the way through.
Adjust the rotary table to the angle of the long side of the pocket.
Mill the long sides of the pockets. You'll have to have some "feel" as to where the ends of the short sides are in order to know where to stop & start the long side cut.

If you noted the start & stop locations of the short side pocket on a note pad, then theoretically when you rotated the table, you could use some CAD or even trig to get yourself reoriented as to where you are now. You'll have to decide where to say the end of one short side actually is, but it might help.

And no need to call a Lagun a bridgeport clone. Calling it a Lagun is enough.

Thanks guys. Gonna be a challenge, but I'll get it done.