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The broken 500 S&W pistol thread

windsormw

Aluminum
Joined
Dec 11, 2006
Location
The corner of Hill & William
My job is to solve problems install and repair machinery , been doing it 20 years .

A revolving pistol malfunction should be no problem to solve ....correct ?

I aimed & fired but nothing happened - hammer stroked & couldn't open the revolving magazine after . Previously I had issues with the LH thread involved with the MAG ejection plate behaving in the same manner .

Tore that pistol down & ya know what ? I reload ammo & am new to it . Lead was caught between mag & breach due to faulty round .

I really wanted to beat the stuffing out of it with a hammer - previous ejector plate had the same issues .

reassembly ongoing

Edit : some times its the simplest of things
 
If you are new to reloading ,I would think you may have left the powder out of the reload......a primer will push a lead bullet...or should I say bOOlit....into the throat ...and next round you have a "ka-boom"......which may or may not disturb the placement of some fingers.........Incidentally ,the round thingy with the holes is called a "cylinder",and the wack a doodle thingy is called a "hammer".............There is an old saying in revolver shooting "If you dont have normal recoil,and dont see the bullet strike.....then dont fire another round without checking the barrel for obstruction"
 
Another point reloading pistol rounds ,is that its quite important that you dont place a double charge in one round......because this can also result in a "ka-boom"........consequently ,when you encounter a round with no powder,its possible another round has a double charge..........this dosent only happen to beginners ,but can happen to experienced reloaders, thru a static effect that causes the powder to feed erratically from a measure.
 
I have two suggestions. First, bring the pistol to a professional gunsmith to resolve. Second, never, ever pick up another firearm. You are far too dangerous to both yourself and others around you. Your lack of knowledge is scary.
 
Actually ,a 500S&W is kinda a big gun for a beginner......But seeing as you cant buy ammo ,I suppose there isnt a problem there,which explains the reloading.... then primers are also scarce ,so you cant win.
 
I have two suggestions. First, bring the pistol to a professional gunsmith to resolve. Second, never, ever pick up another firearm. You are far too dangerous to both yourself and others around you. Your lack of knowledge is scary.


Did you read my post as it was written or how you wanted it to be read ?

Pistol did not fire , trigger bound & magazine would not cycle rendering the pistol inoperable Get it ? . I disassemble pistol to find out what is causing the issue .


Nothing scary or dangerous about that .

Pistol back together & working as it should :)
 
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Another point reloading pistol rounds ,is that its quite important that you dont place a double charge in one round......because this can also result in a "ka-boom"........consequently ,when you encounter a round with no powder,its possible another round has a double charge..........this dosent only happen to beginners ,but can happen to experienced reloaders, thru a static effect that causes the powder to feed erratically from a measure.

I have a dillon machine & maybe done a thousand rounds in several calibers . Its been very consistent & weigh every few rounds to keep a QC on things .

Thanks for the tip John - Would grounding the machine prevent the static effect you mention ?

edit : the gentlemen that sold me the machine said " to be the only one that fire's rounds I've reloaded " ....made sense to me
 
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Not uncommon to have a bullet go only partway. Stuck in the barrel was not uncommon with old military rounds, rounds that were oiled, bad primers, and the like. Missing the stuck happened can cause a ruptured barrel or worse.
 
In my tenure here, I've learned that if you tell about something that you did on your own and of which you are proud, you are liable to get your ass kicked. There's always someone in the "peanut gallery" who has BTDT or would have done it better in some other manner. If you did it without either taking a class or spending weeks looking on Google for a better method, they will even call you stupid.

Just don't tell anyone or you're gonna get it! :rolleyes5:



Lol - this guy is 100% correct
 
If you're playing with powders like H-110/W-296, especially with not very heavy bullets, the problems could be the primer too weak to ignite the powder (wimpy primer and/or weak hammer spring), leading to a very dangerous condition, with extremely erratic pressures in the chamber.

The best way to solve your current problem is to unscrew the barrel. Hammering the bullet back in the cylinder is not the best idea, especially if the other chambers are still loaded.

I don't know how your revolver is built. It could be that the barrel is pinned in place (like the old S&W revolver, with a pin tangential to the threads) and/or the barrel is sleeved (and you need to remove the sleeve first).

A couple of pictures could be very helpful to us for better understanding your situation.

Paolo
 
If you're playing with powders like H-110/W-296, especially with not very heavy bullets, the problems could be the primer too weak to ignite the powder (wimpy primer and/or weak hammer spring), leading to a very dangerous condition, with extremely erratic pressures in the chamber.

The best way to solve your current problem is to unscrew the barrel. Hammering the bullet back in the cylinder is not the best idea, especially if the other chambers are still loaded.

I don't know how your revolver is built. It could be that the barrel is pinned in place (like the old S&W revolver, with a pin tangential to the threads) and/or the barrel is sleeved (and you need to remove the sleeve first).

A couple of pictures could be very helpful to us for better understanding your situation.

Paolo

Thanks Paolo , I've been running N110 with 350G JHP - the lead taper was just starting into the barrel & luckily pushed out with ease . The hammer wasn't involved in this repair ( god knows I wanted it ) & working on it "loaded for bear" was an experience I'd like to never repeat
 
Ball powders dont bridge,and meter very evenly.......so you can rule out that.....one thing Ive struck that caused a squib was waxy bullet lube in the case.......I assume a buildup of lube caused a bit to fall into the case before powder charging.......anyway ,wax in case ,bullet stopped in bore ....not stuck ,it was quite loose,and pushed out with a biro.......EDIT..see you are using jackets,so no lube......and also 110/296 is for full case loads ,so no double charge possibility.......consequently ,a charge has been missed.
 
Ball powders dont bridge,and meter very evenly.......so you can rule out that.....one thing Ive struck that caused a squib was waxy bullet lube in the case.......I assume a buildup of lube caused a bit to fall into the case before powder charging.......anyway ,wax in case ,bullet stopped in bore ....not stuck ,it was quite loose,and pushed out with a biro...

My Lyman manual recommends that powder for projectile & been using Rapid lube 5000 . I'm not saying your wrong John but can you elaborate on your findings ? I load 50 AE with H-110 with great results & I know I'm going to catch hell for this one .

I've experimented with N-110 up to 27g with a 350g leads on a 50 AE it flattened the primer & bruised the palm of my hand .

25g of N-110 seemed to cycle that pistol well with a tidy looking primer
 
The best way to solve your current problem is to unscrew the barrel. Hammering the bullet back in the cylinder is not the best idea, especially if the other chambers are still loaded.

I don't know how your revolver is built. It could be that the barrel is pinned in place (like the old S&W revolver, with a pin tangential to the threads) and/or the barrel is sleeved (and you need to remove the sleeve first).

A couple of pictures could be very helpful to us for better understanding your situation.

Paolo
s&w 500.jpg Just like this one Paolo , can you recommend a book/ manual or some literature involving that kinda work ?

thanks fella
 
... couldn't open the revolving magazine after ...

The "revolving magazine" is properly called the "cylinder." It does act as a magazine but it also acts as the chamber and contains the pressure from the firing cartridge.
 
View attachment 310346 Just like this one Paolo , can you recommend a book/ manual or some literature involving that kinda work ?

thanks fella

I mean no offense, is English a second language for you?

I keep seeing you calling parts by the wrong name, that’s understandable if English is not your primary language.

If English IS your primary language then I HIGHLY SUGGEST you get some training or gun literature and try to better your education on the subject.

Guns are not toys friend, Remember your holding a pipe bomb in your hands every time you pick a gun up.
 
I mean no offense, is English a second language for you?

I keep seeing you calling parts by the wrong name, that’s understandable if English is not your primary language.

If English IS your primary language then I HIGHLY SUGGEST you get some training or gun literature and try to better your education on the subject.

Guns are not toys friend, Remember your holding a pipe bomb in your hands every time you pick a gun up.

I've experimented with N-110 up to 27g with a 350g leads on a 50 AE it flattened the primer & bruised the palm of my hand .

it was that wasn't it ?
 

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