Is that what they teach at Trinidad? I can't fix it so buy a new one? Not one poster has offered the slightest explanation of why a formerly effective and reliable rifle suddenly can't get the job done.
Yes, as a graduate of TSJC, I can tell you that is what they would recommend on these "sentimental" gun projects. They can often involve lots of time and effort, which is almost never compensated time.
If you are going to run a gunsmithing shop as a business (which is what they teach at TSJC), then you have to become good at knowing what work will be unprofitable from the get-go and turn it down. Where I can break even, I will take in "sentimental" projects. Where the work vastly exceeds what the customer is willing to spend, I make recommendations similar to the above.
Examples of work I've turned down: shotgun barrels on an antique SxS that are so pitted the gun is unsafe to fire. One solution I offered the owner was that we slip in some Briley tubes, and turn a 12 gauge into a 20 gauge. That would have worked, but it would have been a $1200+ (at that time) cost to tube both barrels. The customer blanched at the price, and asked how much I'd charge to TIG weld the pits - of which there were dozens. I said "Eh, $65 per hour, probably five hours to prep and weld, then another couple of hours to strike the barrels down, then another three hours to polish them out, and another two to blue. Call it 12+ hours at $65/hour. Bottom line it at $750."
Still too much. By this point, I already had an hour of work and education into the job with the customer that I could have been using to work on other things - and I didn't charge for that hour.
As I said, these jobs become unprofitable, very quickly.
As to why I'm not offering any assistance (yet), it is because like so many questions by the only partially knowledgeable in the gun world, lots of salient details have been left out. Make, model of firearm for starters. Then I'd want to know if the bolt body itself is worn - ie, we'd start taking measurements of diameter along the bolt body to see if, where the bolt body passes through the rear ring of the receiver, is the bold worn/dented/etc to allow the bolt to wiggle and allow the bolt's cocking piece to ride up and over the sear? OK, if the bolt's body is of consistent diameter, what about the rear ring of the receiver? Is the raceway wallowed out where the bolt goes through the rear ring? If the rear ring is wallowed out, making a new bolt might not fix the problem unless the poster is willing to machine a "bulge" into the bolt body at that point.
Next we get to the cocking piece: Is it worn, rounded off, etc? Then the trigger mounting. Then the trigger model itself - is this the correct model Timney trigger for this rifle?