Cutting Fluid for Chambering?
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  1. #1
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    What are you guys using?
    I tried "Tap Magic" tonight as I was out of "RapidTap" and I don't like Tap Magic at all. Seems like a mint colored water.

    Good Hunting
    Jeff in ND


  2. #2
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    Texaco Sultex D works for me. Have not had to buy any since the merger with Shell so I don't know if they will change designations or not.

    FWIW

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    I normally use Moly Dee when chambering.

  4. #4
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    I use Texaco Transultex[sic]. Butch

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    Barrel flush system.

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    RWS,

    Did you make or buy the barrel flush system? I'd like one but have yet to figure out the mounting on the end of barrel.

    I've seen one for sale but the parts looked like plastic while most of the setups I've seen were metal.

  7. #7
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    z1r, I bought mine from Greg Tannel. Buyt after seeing it, one could make one fairly easily. All that's needed is a swivle joint, then adapt it to a barrel. The barrel fixture is made of delrin, and works fine. I like the flush system, much faster, much better finish.

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    Rws,

    Where does one get a swivel joint? That is how I thought it was done but I've not been able to locate a swivel joint.

    Also, do you modify your reamers to allow the fluid to pass the pilot? I've noticed that many do this to their removable pilots.

  9. #9
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    Buy your reamers and bushings from Dave Manson. His bushings are ground with 4 grooves if you want. You get pleny of flow without the grooves at 40 psi between the bushing and the barrel grooves. Greg T recommends Rustlick/Rocol Ultra Cut 255R available through J&L Industrial, $90/5 gal plus shipping.

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    Allright,

    I found the swivel now I just need the pump sytem. For the woek I've done I've only ever needed brush on lube. What type of pump or flush system should I look at for this?

    Thx.

  11. #11
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    You can use any coolant pump if you use Rustlic. It's flowable enough that you don't need high pressure to get the flow.

    I make a small cut in the retainer screw head that aligns with the flutes of the reamer to help flow coolant. You will have a full coverage of coolant in the chamber/reamer this way. Metal chips flow out, but I withdraw the reamer and flush it off for my own satisfaction.

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    Look at the small agricultural use chemical spray pumps in the MSC or J&L catalogs. They are designed for use with nasty stuff. There are several available with different pressures up to 120 psi and both 12 and 110 volt, or go to a higher priced gear pump.

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    Hi All,

    I lost track of where I found that swivel joint. I'm pretty sure it was MSC but can't seem to locate it now. Finally got enough other projects done that I want to start building my flush system.

    Anyone got pics of their system.

    Thanks!

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    I have used water fall pumps from homedepot for water curculation on my tumblers. You might be able to use one they are cheep.

  15. #15
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    So do you flush the chamber from the muzzel end of the barrel and push the chips out the back, or the other way around?

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    Flush from the muzzle. Pushes chips out the the chamber end.

  17. #17
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    From the school of hard knocks (some 35 years of machining and gunsmithing) muzzle flush is the only way to go. Once you use a good muzzle flush system, you will kick yourself all the way to your favorite bar to drown your previous stupidity in chambering without a muzzle flush system. It is far, far superior (higher chambering speed, better finish, less reamer wear, flushes out the chips, much faster) to using the old "brush chips and wipe or squirt oil" method!!!!!

    Sorry folks, but you gotta make your own, the systems I have seen for purchase are somewhat junky.

    The $100 coolant sump with centrifugal pump that Enco sells is perfect (10 gallons). Do not use a positive displacement pump!!! With the centrifugal, you can put a valve on the discharge to throttle the flow.

    I use a high quality (with extreme pressure additives) soluble oil. Regular mix rate is 20 parts water to 1 part oil. I use it 1 part oil to one part water.

    Here is the rotary union: It takes up to a 1-1/4" muzzle diameter. Look closely and you will see the copper shim (Made from household copper water piping) wrapped around the barrel at the cathead, another shim is under the rotary union screws. I dial in the union before assembly (it is two parts, one part has the screws for clamping on the barrel, the other part screws into the barrel clamp and has the rotary spindle inside). Also have an extension, for reaching through the headstock when the muzzle is chucked in the 4 jaw chuck and the breech in in the steady. Note the anti rotation pins. The black body is made from moly impregnated nylon, self lubricating, especially with the oil mix inside. Has two O-rings inside for sealing. I gave it 1/2 thou clearance between the inner rotating spindle and the outer body, does not leak a drop. I have posted all this before, do a search!!!

    Somewhere I have a photo with the unit disassembled, will try to find it and post.


  18. #18
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    The spindle seals to the muzzle by a soft teflon seal: I put a generous 60 degree center in the muzzle prior to setting the barrel up in the lathe. The teflon seal on the muzzle flush spindle has a 60 degree matching surface. This is drawn up to the barrel tightly when the spindle is screwed into the adapter.

  19. #19
    Rustystud Guest

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    Gentlemen:

    Everything John Ricks has said is true. I built a 60 degree taper spider head that is threaded directly to a Duffnorton rotary coupler. I use a geared rotary coolant pump with with both a 2 micrton filter system and two ball valves to control the flow. My system is built over a 15 gallon barrel. I have a by pass system that I run for a few minutes to mix up my coolant before I use it. I have a catch pan that returns the coolant to my tank. I use Rustlic 255R cut 5 to 1. Depending on the bore and chamber size I regulate the flow from 35 pounds to 125 pounds (I have an inline gauge). This allows me to keep reaming without as many withdraws. A true set-up, Good sharp reamers and 125 to 500 RPMs and 15 minutes or less reaming time. Time = money. An initial investment of $1,000.00 or less will pay for itself very quickly in machining time and tool wear. I use to do 1 or 2 chambers in a weekend now I can do 6-10 in a weekend. I find throught the headstock is not only faster but more accurate too. I do not like the "nylon/plastic" couplers. The duff norton coupler is metal (either stainless or cm steel) it has bearings and can be fitted with grease fitting. It is designed to run at as much as 5000 RPMs. At 125 to 500 RPMs it should last a lifetime.
    Good luck
    Rustystud

  20. #20
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    Where did you buy the duff norton coupler and any more pictures?

    I've been using Greg T's system for quite a while and like it but I have several short barrels to do and need to make up an adapter to either use in a hollow center and a steady rest or something to go into the spindle about 6" to pick up the end of the barrel.

    I ran the net looking for some kind of coupler to use before I went with Greg's system and must have missed Duff Norton. I found several used in the auto wash arena but they were too pricey for me.

    Thanks IM12


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