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  1. #1
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    Cool Feedback - Through the barrel flushing success!

    Thank you all who provided advice and photos regarding through the barrel flushing for chamber reaming.
    I have finished my rig and am chambering 22WMR barrels now.

    Here is a photo of the setup:
    pump1.jpg
    Pump draws from the reservoir to a tee where a waste valve lets off excess, then to a filter and another valve that I use for on and off for the oil and also to block air from going into the filter and pump. Between two ball valves is a valve with a regulator for air to flush oil from the barrel when the cutting is done.


    And another view:
    pump2.jpg
    I set the waste valve to regulate maximum system pressure (about 20-30 psi). I set the upper ball valve for the flow I want. I set the air regulator at about 20 psi.

    I made a swivel coupling:
    pump3.jpg

    Here is the drip tray:
    pump4.jpg

    For 22 and 17 the pilot pretty much blocks the oil flow. So, I ream an 1/8" and then draw the reamer back. When the pilot gets back past the forcing cone there is a good flow of oil that washes the chips off the reamer.

    I ream with a rougher first and then the finish reamer goes about all the way in with just a pass and a half.

    Except for dark oil everywhere, it is a great setup.

    Regards, Ray

  2. #2
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    I haven't actually put one of these together yet and used it, but as I understand it, adding a couple small notches or flats on the pilot retaining screw will increase the oil flow. I've also read about notching the front of the pilot bushing in a couple places, but you'd sure want to be careful about getting those deburred.

  3. #3
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    Default That is looking fine Ray

    Quote Originally Posted by rbrandes View Post
    Thank you all who provided advice and photos regarding through the barrel flushing for chamber reaming.
    I have finished my rig and am chambering 22WMR barrels now.

    Here is a photo of the setup:
    pump1.jpg
    Pump draws from the reservoir to a tee where a waste valve lets off excess, then to a filter and another valve that I use for on and off for the oil and also to block air from going into the filter and pump. Between two ball valves is a valve with a regulator for air to flush oil from the barrel when the cutting is done.


    And another view:
    pump2.jpg
    I set the waste valve to regulate maximum system pressure (about 20-30 psi). I set the upper ball valve for the flow I want. I set the air regulator at about 20 psi.

    I made a swivel coupling:
    pump3.jpg

    Here is the drip tray:
    pump4.jpg

    For 22 and 17 the pilot pretty much blocks the oil flow. So, I ream an 1/8" and then draw the reamer back. When the pilot gets back past the forcing cone there is a good flow of oil that washes the chips off the reamer.

    I ream with a rougher first and then the finish reamer goes about all the way in with just a pass and a half.

    Except for dark oil everywhere, it is a great setup.

    Regards, Ray
    It appears to work fine too!

    You can put those magnets on the outside bottom of your oil catch tray and they will work just as well for holding the swarf. . Much easier to clean up that way. ;-)

  4. Likes DrHook liked this post
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    Nice job Ray. The integral air flush is a nice touch. Any details you can share on the rotary union as far as seals used, basic design, etc?? I take it the vice grips is to keep the outer housing from rotating and stressing the hose?

  6. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gzig5 View Post
    Nice job Ray. The integral air flush is a nice touch. Any details you can share on the rotary union as far as seals used, basic design, etc?? I take it the vice grips is to keep the outer housing from rotating and stressing the hose?
    The first rotary I made was a delrin sleeve on a delrin shaft. Not good! The two welded to each other!
    The second one has an aluminum sleeve, 1.5" dia x 2" long, bored thru to .750 with a 1/4 pipe thread in the side.
    The spindle it rides on is delrin with a couple of grooves for 113 O-rings.
    Silverado, I think, pointed out that the retaining thread needs to be left hand. I used 5/8-18.
    Regards, Ray

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    Looks good. I'd upgrade to a Deublin rotary union though. They can be had for cheap on ebay or amazon. I picked up a very good used fitting for $25 on ebay. It'll save you a lot of hassle. Also, I get better results with a water based coolant (Houghton HOCUT 795MP-RHS).



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    Rube Goldberg would be proud. Why aren't you using the pump's relief valve? Sure, you'll have to shorten the spring or replace it but pressure will be constant and adjustable. Then you can throw all that galvanized water pipe away. And NEVER use Teflon tape on a hydraulic system. It can trash pumps and clog filters, especially when each joint has enough for a whole bathroom, as does this one.Or, if you went to the trouble of running air to it, why not just use air?
    As it is plumbed now it is a bomb waiting to go off. That pump can surely produce enough pressure to burst that pipe and all it takes is to forget to open a valve. That's why the pump has a relief valve.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by GenePoole View Post
    Also, I get better results with a water based coolant (Houghton HOCUT 795MP-RHS).
    While I agree great results are obtainable with water based coolants, the maintenance/upkeep required probably doesn't really benefit the person that only occasionally chambers barrels.

    It does flow pretty good for chip evacuation even with unmodified pilot retention screws on HSS reamers. My carbide reamers are a different configuration and really flow.

    This video is an unmodified HSS 6CM reamer at 30 psi.

    HSS reaming 6CM chamber. - Rubicon Precision, Inc.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 300sniper View Post
    While I agree great results are obtainable with water based coolants, the maintenance/upkeep required probably doesn't really benefit the person that only occasionally chambers barrels.

    It does flow pretty good for chip evacuation even with unmodified pilot retention screws on HSS reamers. My carbide reamers are a different configuration and really flow.

    This video is an unmodified HSS 6CM reamer at 30 psi.

    HSS reaming 6CM chamber. - Rubicon Precision, Inc.
    What is the name brand of fuild you are using?

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    Quote Originally Posted by primnumbers View Post
    What is the name brand of fuild you are using?
    Vasco 7000.

    I put together a system with a 10 GPM positive displacement pump bypassed at 300 PSI that I've been playing with. I've only chambered one barrel with it so far, but it shows lots of promise. I need to control some foaming issues and change my chambering programs a bit to take advantage of the pressure/volume, but I haven't had time to sit down and do it.

    Working the bugs out of the new higher... - Rubicon Precision, Inc.

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    What did the pump cost? I have a bit of an idea bouncing around and just looking at what may be a cost effective pump.


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