Looking for opinions on floating reamer holders - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    I made both the flat pusher style, and one that rode the tailstock "flat" (faced off dead center)with a ball bearing...

    I had a lot of chatter with the ball bearing style, flat pusher worked best for me. I suspect what works "best" depends at least somewhat on the operator.

    I work between centers in a steady,using nothing but live pilot reamers with correctly fitted bushings my chambers have no more than .0002-.0003 runout. Works for me...

    I just purchased Dave Manson's holder- which is basically a flat pusher style holder; just installed pressure flush and wanted to be able to have the tailstock hold the reamer. I suspect it will deliver the same results.

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  3. #22
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    Does it make any difference as to whether its wise to use a floating reamer holder, depending on whether you prebore the chamber with drill and boring bar? The finish reamer will still follow the pre-bored chamber concentrically despite being floating and not having its pilot engaged in the bore? I have to admit I am a little nervous about this aspect having not yet tried the preboring of the chamber method.

  4. #23
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    I have been wandering the same thing! And is the point of preboring to not wear out the reamer so fast? Also do you just use a drill bit or do you have to use a boring bar along with it?

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    One reason to pre-bore, and the reason I want to, is that it gives you an opportunity to align the chamber with the section of bore ahead of the chamber. You align the barrel in the lathe chuck based off measurement you take from that forward span of bore as well. You will then of course machine your tenon and shoulder in correct geometry based on that section of the bore as well. If you just run a chamber reamer through from a faced off breach following the bore, it will follow the bore, which may not be aligned with the bore that will remain ahead of the throat.

    The drill bit does the bulk of the work, then a boring bore takes it closer, ensuring that the undersized hole is concentric with the bore. After that, the reamer is supposed to follow the precut bore. But I am wondering if I am better off using a rigid reamer holder off the tail stock to avoid chatter or other problems when I do that. Simply push the reamer with a dead centre.

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  7. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooleyrifles View Post
    I'v used a simple pusher for 35+ years.Attachment 251286
    Dave - Any chance you could post post photos of your pusher arrangement disassembled? I'm specifically interested in how you designed the point of contact between the arbor and sleeve that holds the reamer so as to create the float.

  8. #26
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    Mine is similar to the Bald Eagle pusher. It has a radius on the rear of the reamer holder. I do drill and taper bore to an indicated point in the throat. I don't care about the reamer bushing as I want my reamer to follow the tapered prebored hole.


  9. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Butch Lambert View Post
    Mine is similar to the Bald Eagle pusher. It has a radius on the rear of the reamer holder. I do drill and taper bore to an indicated point in the throat. I don't care about the reamer bushing as I want my reamer to follow the tapered prebored hole.

    Do you use a drill chuck to hold the straight shank of the tail stock end of the reamer holder?

  10. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grizzlypeg View Post
    One reason to pre-bore, and the reason I want to, is that it gives you an opportunity to align the chamber with the section of bore ahead of the chamber. You align the barrel in the lathe chuck based off measurement you take from that forward span of bore as well. You will then of course machine your tenon and shoulder in correct geometry based on that section of the bore as well. If you just run a chamber reamer through from a faced off breach following the bore, it will follow the bore, which may not be aligned with the bore that will remain ahead of the throat.

    The drill bit does the bulk of the work, then a boring bore takes it closer, ensuring that the undersized hole is concentric with the bore. After that, the reamer is supposed to follow the precut bore. But I am wondering if I am better off using a rigid reamer holder off the tail stock to avoid chatter or other problems when I do that. Simply push the reamer with a dead centre.
    This is very similar to what I do. I leave the bored hole .010 smaller than the final shoulder diameter and .050 short of the final shoulder location. I chamber using a JGS reamer holder.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Praeger View Post
    Do you use a drill chuck to hold the straight shank of the tail stock end of the reamer holder?
    The reamer holder on the left only holds the reamer. The tool on the right goes in the tailstock. Doesn't matter how it is held in the tailstock. It just pushes the radius ed end of my reamer holder.


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