What's new
What's new

M2010 “budget” equivalent

thunderskunk

Cast Iron
Joined
Nov 13, 2018
Location
Middle-of-nowhere
Hey gents,

I’m not a member of any general gun forums, so this is as close as I get. Is this going to be a “noob- how do I build an army gun?” thread? Yes. Feel free to skip over.

I shot M4 at a match for my state today; I did ok, not spectacular, but it’s a weird match. There are other categories; one of which is sniper. It sounds pretty stinkin awesome: they set them out in the woods Saturday morning, and it’s a stalking competition until Sunday afternoon. Then there’s some general marksmanship and secondary weapon stuff. My assumption was that you have to have gone to sniper school, but apparently not. Our unit will borrow the rifles we need if I wanted to compete.

To facilitate practicing for such a match, I’d like to “build” a cheaper version of the M2010, a Soldier’s choice version of the Remington 700 CDL in .300 win mag. I have a machine shop, enough of a wood shop to do some stock work, and... a little cash. Not enough to just buy the 6k civilian variant, but if I could find a 700 action, maybe even an ADL, it’s easier to draw a range than it is to draw a weapon from someone else’s unit and ammo for a gun your unit doesn’t own.

What do you think? Is there a cheap way to do this? What’s a good substitute for the Leupold Mark 4 6.5–20×50mm? I could butcher something for all the gadgets and gizmos the M2010 has.
 
When I built a 1000m rifle many years ago,I used a Pattern 1914(W) action,and a suitably heavy barrel .....not much invested ,if you use vernier sights......but you want a scope ,and thats going to need to be pretty good to stand the recoil of 300winmag and to have the necessary internal elevation.
 
You don’t need a 700action to build a practice gun, especially if your outside the USA. Being in the Åland Islands can you get your hands on a Sako or Tikka action or complete rifle?
 
I’m in the US: something with tapatalk, PM, and iPhones doesn’t communicate well. Every time I update my password or whatnot, it reverts back to the location at the top of the dropdown, ie. Åland Islands.
 
Lots of illustrious PM regulars have been exiled to the Aland Islands......quite nice there ....in summer ......just dont engage in conversation with any of the locals ,might be EG or Thermite.
 
Since you are not killing people, I question your choice of caliber. The Remington platform has the most available and reasonable parts. Buy a complete late model cheap version and part out the unnecessary parts.
 
Since you are not killing people, I question your choice of caliber. The Remington platform has the most available and reasonable parts. Buy a complete late model cheap version and part out the unnecessary parts.

In competition, what’s available is what we use, which is the M2010 in .300 win mag. I’m not sure we even own older models. The closer I can get ballistically to that, the more beneficial the pages of my data book will be once I have a chance to draw the real thing. The winds up here are spastic at best, the weather changes on a whim, and our ranges typically slope downward. It’s a bit of a nightmare, but that’s the fun of it.

But yea, that’s the plan. It won’t be hard to find equivalent parts, but I figured someone might have good recommendations around here, maybe even some sneaky redneck fixes. The winner from last year says he made a rear sandbag that someone else paid a few hundred bucks for using a sock and a freezer bag.
 
M2010 Rifle



I'm sure you could find a used M700 in .300 Win Mag for a reasonable price; you might want to rebarrel with a heavy profile barrel. There are some features that might be difficult to get for a civilian owned rifle, although it seems that silencers are pretty accessible if you pay the tax.

Chassis stocks are readily available; Competition Machine is one source but they aren't cheap. In fact, I am not sure you can piece together something close for $6K.

Since the most important part is operator skill, I think that could be gained with a less expensive platform.
 
You dont need a fancy adjustable ally stock...if you are the only shooter ,make a wood stock up to suit yourself.....cost near zero,just a bit of time............And as mentioned ,the money will go into a scope with sufficient elevation for 1000m,but again,a machinist could make up and elevating mount ,copy of the old Warner and Swasey mount......I used a Lyman Super Target Spot ,which were very cheap when tech moved on,but now they are collectable ,and worth too much to use for their intended purpose.
 
I'd have to look up my notes, but I think I've got less than $1000 in this rifle, including the scope: a $399 Athlon Mil-Mil that is incredibly effective for the price. Spare R700 LA from an estate sale, 26 in. Bartlein M24 5R 1-10, used B&C M40 stock and Magpul DBM. Of course, I did all the smithing myself. The Scope and 20 MOA scope rail easily shoots sub-MOA out to 1000 yd. with MK 248 MOD 1, or Federal GMM.

ACtC-3cmg5zWjoieaKQ-2VekPuHU8LJlLuuw3NU6R4GiaRcuK8yKnJla7aobyEF4PGefHgYvL72uN98KLKr3Y8kBe9Clgd9-sJtvXG3Nu22S5Q-2m9aq6skKDD2FksPOWV_7hCHjIHfhlrUJ2b5cptVTiSbktQ=w1171-h878-no
 
Since your in the US midway has 700 long actions stripped for $99. Get a ptg bolt and custom fit it for about 135 to 200, true the action, put on a good trigger and barrel and your on your way.
 
Since your in the US midway has 700 long actions stripped for $99. Get a ptg bolt and custom fit it for about 135 to 200, true the action, put on a good trigger and barrel and your on your way.

Never found the 700 receivers and I don't think you can assemble a PT&G bolt assembly for less than $300 from their website.
 
You dont need a fancy adjustable ally stock...if you are the only shooter ,make a wood stock up to suit yourself.....cost near zero,just a bit of time............And as mentioned ,the money will go into a scope with sufficient elevation for 1000m,but again,a machinist could make up and elevating mount ,copy of the old Warner and Swasey mount......I used a Lyman Super Target Spot ,which were very cheap when tech moved on,but now they are collectable ,and worth too much to use for their intended purpose.

That’s exactly it. My plan is to match the reticle height and angle of the M2010, or get fairly close, and maybe not even something that custom, just pad up the stock a bit and add some plates at the back.

I feel like someone recommended a Howa action but I’m not seeing it. Any experience with these? It’s sounds like a “you get what you pay for” deal and that’s probably not 1/4 MOA performance. Otherwise, it’s a nice prospect being $500 for the action only.
 
That’s exactly it. My plan is to match the reticle height and angle of the M2010, or get fairly close, and maybe not even something that custom, just pad up the stock a bit and add some plates at the back.

I feel like someone recommended a Howa action but I’m not seeing it. Any experience with these? It’s sounds like a “you get what you pay for” deal and that’s probably not 1/4 MOA performance. Otherwise, it’s a nice prospect being $500 for the action only.
Howa's are good actions and come with a pretty good trigger from the factory. Bedding them is a little different as they are a flat bottomed receiver. You can find a used weatherby Vanguard or Howa in magnum calibers used for $400 or so commonly. Only downside is that the barrel tenon is a metric thread, and there is not as many accessories for Howa's like Remington clones.
 
I was looking up the chasis used by the m201o and was like wow, that's expensive. Ill give you the easy button for what you want to do, probably save you some money and time too.
Ruger Precision Rifle in 300 Win Mag. Then change out the forarm to a AR15 match rifle tube so you can mount Anschutz rail accessories to it or a good bipod.

If that doesn't appeal to you then go with what butch recommended, a 700 in an Elisio Competition Shooting Stuff chassis
 
I’m liking what I’m reading. Hoping to start some of the purchasing this week.

I’m pretty confident in my capability to produce an aluminum receiver bedding; be it just into a wood stock I’ve furnished or more.

Two oddball questions:

Does anybody drill, tap, and helicoil their action mounting screws to allow a higher torque value? I’ve done this on quite a few different projects, and it sounds like it would lend well to setting the receiver into the aluminum.

Does anyone happen to know of a version of the PVS-29 or 30 that doesn’t cost $12k? I don’t care for picatinny rails, so I’ll probably have m-lock on the top and bottom of the fore end. The top allowing for a riser block for the potential of getting that PVS mounted. This is not an immediate concern, but if I’m going to cut the mounting in, I might as well do it when it’s in the mill.
 








 
Back
Top