What's new
What's new
By:
Advanced search…

machining a 1911 slide and frame from bar stock

Hi: Nice job. I looked at the work shown in the other site, you seem to be boring the hole for the barrel straight. do you plan to cut the slide to match the barrel angle later? I have been planning to build a 1911 and interested in what your doing. My build is with the intent to have tack driver accuracy and to possibly include trigger modifications. Fortunately I do have a complete machine shop, 2 Moore Jig Borers with .0001 DRO, 2 Horz. Mills, Cincinnati ToolMaster mill with DRO, 3 surface Grinders, 6 lathes from 24" to 12" Hendey, L&S and P&W Plus a Hardinge for small parts. A B&S tool and cutter Grinder plus the other related machines.
Why a 7075 frame?

Frank
 
If you want to build one you should have not problem with all that equipment. The Ordnance drawings I have show the barrel passage parallel with the rails but the lugs and hood clearance cut on a 0 dregree 52' angle. But the breech face and firing pin is cut at a 0degree 24' angle. I believe the lugs are cut at a slightly larger angle for clearance but not sure. I am also following closely Jerry Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual vol.2 1911, which confirms the Ordnance drawings. That manual provides everything needed plus much more to build a 1911 from the ground up, including tolerance difference between standard and national match, all go gages needed etc., etc. It is very detailed. All this info is in the library at HGS.

Thanks for looking,

steve
 
Hi Steve. I worked on a few 1911s Built many scope mounts for them. The barrel defiantly is at an angle. If putting a scope mount on the slide and it's parallel the scope will run out of "elevation" adjustment (actually it will be too high and can't be lowered enough) I attached a photo of a 1911 I built for my son, Caspian Frame and slide with a Kart barrel re-chambered my me. The scope mount was made by me from 7075 and is set above the bore so that with the loads we were shooting there is no elevation adjustment 25 to 50 yards. Something Fred Kart and I talked about when he at one time came to Camp Perry. Looks heavy but it's hollow except where the mounting screws are located. My son set the Junior Record with it 2639. Was tested by AMU smith and shot from their rest a 50 shot 50X group. That was after it was shooting for 2 years. Yes My son is in the AMU now and is 2X National Champion in Service Pistol
Looking close at the scope mount you can see the taper, I put a rod in the barrel that is full up in the lugs. I then indicate the rod and cut the mount after it is attached to the slide.

Frank
 

Attachments

  • Picture 283.jpg
    Picture 283.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 2,844
Yes I agree the barrel is locked up at an angle but the barrel passage(barrel clearance) is parallel to the rails. The barrel is held like this at the bushing and upper and lower lugs. When I first started looking at the prints I could not make sense of it but once I understood it made sense. If you like I can take a pic and post the prints I am working from. Nice looking pistol!
 
Looking good, if you could update here that'd be great.
Good luck and may the chips be with you :D
 
I guess I didn't say exactly what I was thinking. Was in a rush to get to my shop. So many projects so little time! I got a nice 16" P&W lathe that I'm fixing up and painting.
I was thinking of the lug cutting, seen many drawings showing different ways Some show the lugs are cut at an angle. One drawing shows the tool path as a square and the lugs have flats on the sides and top. Looking at the Caspian in the photo the lugs are circular all the way around so that it was cut by rotating the slide or moving the table in a circular pattern. ( I did forget to mention I do have a Bridgeport CNC older model but it works) Since the barrel is the same diameter in the hood area as the lug diameter that area has to be the same diameter as the lug cut or the barrel will not cam-up into the lugs. The Diameter of the barrel at the hood ares is .694 and the hole for the bushing is .699 the bore of the ejector port area has to be bored the same as the lugs.
When broaching the hood slot was the cut at an angle?

Frank
 
I guess I should find something to start my slide, been thinking of something forged. Did you use the ground endmill to cut the radius for the barrel in the ejector opening area? I seen that fixture posted in the other site of the lug cutting fixture. has anyone determined why the lugs are cut? Add barrel material for the internal pressure?

Frank
 
Making progress on this work. Got the frame internal nearly done. Just fitted the frame to slide and ended up with almost no clearance which should be loosened up a bit I think. It slides easily but no wiggle room so a bit of grit might bind it up. Not sure though. When installing barrel slide and frame the barrel locked up and dropped down the first time. I was happy with that although now I have to blue it up and print for three lug bearing. The mag well was a bitch. Used a combination of long endmills, and slotting tools. At 5 inches that was the limit of my stroke. Trigger track and shoe slot was even harder. Barely room for a slotting tool but I got it done. The frame has been harder than the slide. If I had uses 4140 for he frame not sure I would be where I am. If you have any questions I'll be happy to answer. Thanks!IMG_20140308_125812_034.jpgIMG_20140308_125800_580.jpgIMG_20140308_125830_247.jpgIMG_20140227_215900_556.jpgIMG_20140307_203910_037.jpg
 
Getting close with this project. Fit an oversized stainless StormLake barrel. I was able to get 3 lug contact and .002 hood clearance. All the parts are fit and will test fire this weekend. I made some aluminum grip panels but don't really like them. Anyone have preferences on nice synthetic grips under 40$. Going to cerakote sniper grey leaving barrel, trigger shoe, and hammer stainless.

IMG_20140514_220030_010.jpg IMG_20140514_220109_900.jpg
 
im not a fan of the thick gooey gun paints, ie cerakote. I seem to go for hard coatings when looking at guns. that paint stuff just take away from the crisp lines of metal guns......just my Opin..
 
Got everything together and cycles fine. Made up a sear jig to provide a true radius engagement sorta like the one on brownells and it worked well. Nice snap. Will try to find an hour to test fire. IMG_20140518_120254_400.jpgIMG_20140516_151737_931.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

rons
Turning a 6"Long Bar and Tail Stock Center Not Centered
2
Replies
36
Views
1K
triumph406
triumph406
R
Machining Techniques
Replies
6
Views
607
just Dave
just Dave
A
Making new draw bar
2
Replies
23
Views
2K
AlfaGTA
A
Z
Buying the right CNC Machine and avoiding overspending
2
Replies
24
Views
3K
Nerv
Nerv
rabler
rabler's Shop and Monarch Lathes Update
Replies
13
Views
1K
rabler
rabler








 

ABOUT PRACTICAL MACHINIST

With more than 10.6 million unique visitors over the last year, Practical Machinist is the most visited site for metalworking professionals. Practical Machinist is the easiest way to learn new techniques, get answers quickly and discuss common challenges with your peers. Register for the world’s largest manufacturing technology forum for free today to stay in the know.

Learn more about us.

STAY CONNECTED

Facebook Instagram YouTube LinkedIn Pinterest Twitter Tiktok

Register Become a forum member. Register today.

Sign Up Sign up for our e-newsletter.

© 2024 Copyright Practicalmachinist.com. All Rights reserved.

Back
Top