Mauser 98 Safety

Have read thru most threads and need advice on the simplest method to convert to a swing safety.

You mean a safety like the Win Model 70?

Have you checked over on Mauser Central? I joined up over there- a boatload of Mauser-specific info and guys with same Mauser-specific experience.
Not that you won't get an answer here, but the best analogy I can make is that you'd consult a cardiologist about heart issues if you could...

That and I'm certain there are posts and links specific to your question.

The simplest way would be to email me. I have 6-8 in stock, blued and ready to ship.

[email protected]

Jim Kobe said:

The simplest way would be to email me. I have 6-8 in stock, blued and ready to ship.

[email protected]

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Kobe's are very nice and reasonable.

What kind of money are we talking about and are any fixtures included?

Fixtures? He is selling the modified safetys, not tooling and instructions to build his products.
You could buy one of his and reverse engineer it if you choose.

Dakota* & perhaps NECG or other 3-pos shroud/safety upgrades want a small offset notch cut into the rear of the M98 bolt body at ~1 o'clock or so. (*.125" dia .070" deep w/carbide EM) I'm sure Jim would provide any necessary info if his requires the same. Email him for details, price.

Thanks fir the referral, Butch!

Or,, you can buy the Wisner or Chapman two position swing safety kit from Brownells or else where and alter the military shroud if you have a milling machine. You'll need the proper tooling. The fixture to hold the shrouds was pretty easy to make. I've used several of the Dakota 3 position safties. I use my rotory table witha 3 jaw chuck mounted on it and just "run by the numbers" to locate the bolt lock detent for the proper fit. I've seen some installed with just a 'guess' at where that detent cut goes that were pretty sloppy. Ya, they locked the bolt, but you could raise the handle a third of the way. Amature work, to say the least.

This is another case of how much is your time and knowledge worth. Contact Kobe and buy one!

ditchdigger said:

Or,, you can buy the Wisner or Chapman two position swing safety kit from Brownells or else where and alter the military shroud if you have a milling machine. You'll need the proper tooling. The fixture to hold the shrouds was pretty easy to make. I've used several of the Dakota 3 position safties. I use my rotory table witha 3 jaw chuck mounted on it and just "run by the numbers" to locate the bolt lock detent for the proper fit. I've seen some installed with just a 'guess' at where that detent cut goes that were pretty sloppy. Ya, they locked the bolt, but you could raise the handle a third of the way. Amature work, to say the least.

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Therin lies the problem with the Gentry and Dakota three position ones; the position of the locking pin on those is not engineered correctly and will allow the bolt handle to lift. If you want a three position one, go with the Ed Lapore or Satterlee units. My conversion of the 98 shroud does not require a bolt mod but the cocking piece sometime will need an adjustment. Do not buy the CHapman unit; go with the Wisner. The geometry on Wisner's lever is MUCH better and is the only one I will use.

Jim

Jim Kobe said:

Therin lies the problem with the Gentry and Dakota three position ones; the position of the locking pin on those is not engineered correctly and will allow the bolt handle to lift. If you want a three position one, go with the Ed Lapore or Satterlee units. My conversion of the 98 shroud does not require a bolt mod but the cocking piece sometime will need an adjustment. Do not buy the CHapman unit; go with the Wisner. The geometry on Wisner's lever is MUCH better and is the only one I will use.

Jim

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I don't think it's the engineering of the locking pin, Jim. That detent cut location is critical, though. With the system/method I use the bolt handle hardly moves at all when the safety & bolt locking is engaged (usually less than your typical model 70 does). I set-up my rotory table w/chuck Sunday afternoon and did 3 Mauser bolts, all with the same excellent results. I will admit, I like Eds' safeties better and I do like Wisners' kit much better than Chapmans'. Haven't experience with Gentrys' 3 position safety/shroud. If I was only going to do one or two safeties, I'd just buy what I needed from you and call it good. Be hard to justify the cost of the tooling & fixturing, otherwise.

ditchdigger said:

I don't think it's the engineering of the locking pin, Jim. That detent cut location is critical, though. With the system/method I use the bolt handle hardly moves at all when the safety & bolt locking is engaged (usually less than your typical model 70 does). I set-up my rotory table w/chuck Sunday afternoon and did 3 Mauser bolts, all with the same excellent results. I will admit, I like Eds' safeties better and I do like Wisners' kit much better than Chapmans'. Haven't experience with Gentrys' 3 position safety/shroud. If I was only going to do one or two safeties, I'd just buy what I needed from you and call it good. Be hard to justify the cost of the tooling & fixturing, otherwise.

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The problem is not related to the location of the pin hole as being critical; it has to do with it not being closer to the center-line of the bolt. It does not allow the pin to engage the cutout enough so it will lock; it rides over the cutout. I had to weld up a bit on the periphery of the bolt to get more contact surface.

After spending some time doing a little research, I think I found the best approach. Brownells offers a Timney that is all but drop in. It dropped in mine but I can see if someone went crazy honing and grinding how it would take some fitting. Great design and reasonable at $38.99...Part # 1001 M-98 LPS

Let us know how the "drop in" works.

Timney Safety

Butch Lambert said:

Let us know how the "drop in" works.

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Well Butch, here is the "drop in" installed, you sound skeptical, why?

Well omrc7771,
I believe most of us thought you wanted a Winchester type safety. I went back and read this thread 2 or 3 times to see specifically what you were asking for. Not my choice, but it will probably work for you.

That's how things started out until I found this. Much less hassle to install and I think the horizontal type looks cobbled and hacked together. This is much cleaner.

Well, We all have different opinions on clean, but you like it and that is all that counts for you.

The Buehler-style 'low wings' have been around for a while for both RH and LH fits & I have examples on various '93s & '98s. One 'knock' has been that 'safe' also locks the bolt, so bolt dis-assembly is then a bit more work without the middle position of the 3 pos Win-type or OEM Mauser wing ('cocked & locked', if you will).

E-gunparts (Neumrichs) did have a narrower 'sniper'-type (IIR the name) low wing that hung further back to grip with a scope atop and kept all three positions. Can't find a pic & I doubt supplies were abundant as it may well have been a rare war-time bit that was unearthed more recently and gobbled up.

Haven't switched the 'plain' shroud onto any old mils that could use the Bold or Timney with safety, but I do like that the OEM wing can be left on with them tho' there's just no locking the bolt when a scope is in the way of swinging it thru' the full arc. Have Timney-'with' on in a Late '90s FN that was re-barreled to .338-06, and I very much like the Mark-X & Rem 798 (Zastava) triggers that are as easily adjusted as the others. HVA (Husky) are side safety like the Mk-Xs, are easier to install but as 'limited' as the Buehler-style in function, if you call it that.

Be sure that when you engage the safety you see the cocking piece pull back from the sear (or 'transfer lever' if you've gone to Timney, Bold, or Dayton-Traister). Minor work, or a cocking piece to mod, may be in order if the 'Buehler' jams & won't engage. If it engages OK you may agree with some of us who often find the action of the *Buehler-style stiff even when fitted the best possible.

Butch, he had me going for a while there too. OP, don't mind us, you'll be fine.