Takedown Rifle Conversion

Iron Buffalo · Feb 27, 2007

I am interested in converting either a bolt or lever action rifle to a takedown rifle.

I have a pretty good idea as to what is involved with this converstion, and was wondering if anyone has any advice or insights into this type of modification and the related lock mechanisms.

Any advice or insights into Takedown Rifles would be greatly appreciated !!

Thank You

Iron Buffalo

abarnsley · Feb 27, 2007

Lever takedown was covered pretty well in the NRA Gunsmithing guide (Updated) ISBN D-935998-47-0

GGaskill · Feb 27, 2007

I would suggest unscrewing and reseating the barrel at least a dozen times before cutting the chamber as the thread fit will move a little the first several times it is reseated and you won't want it to be a loose fit when you're done.

jpcampbell · Feb 27, 2007

I have built several bolt take downs with interrupted threads, but I have been using barrel nuts for the last few years. Much easier to get head spacing perfect. If your using interrupted thread method the matting steel plates and locking mechanism should be set before chambering the barrel, the matting plates and locking lever will keep the rifle from shifting after removing and reinstalling and must be done with care.

Iron Buffalo · Feb 27, 2007

Thank you all for the advice !

abarnsley, I found the NRA guide on Amazon and it's on its way. I can't wait to get it.

GGaskill, That makes sense, I'm sure glad to find this out before instead of after.....

jpcambell, That also makes a lot of sense, and luckily, I like Savage 110's, which will likely be the action I would use for the takedown conversion. On a barrel nut setup, what is the best way to clock the steel pate to the barrel?
Thread it, and shoulder it against the nut?
Or should I make it a slip fit hole and key it to the barrel to retain the radial position?

Thanks again everyone for the good advice

Iron Buffalo

slseacrist · Feb 28, 2007

I have been working on a bolt take down. Right now things are busy and I had to put in on the back burner for a few weeks. Hear is the link to the thread that I started on this topic. I have not finished. But I have put a lot of though into it. I think my design will work, but now I just need to get the shop time to finish. If you get going before I can get back on this project. Please post so I can see what you are doing. SS

slseacrist · Feb 28, 2007

Opps

http://www.sporterizing.com/index.php?showtopic=4128

deltaenterprizes · Feb 28, 2007

the pics do not show

jpcampbell · Feb 28, 2007

You don't need the plates if you go with the barrel nut. You can do it several ways, use a set screw to hold the barrel nut after head spacing, and this will allow you to index the barrels each time. or as I do for my own personal rifle and carry the head space gages in the butt of the rifle then thread the barrel until it stops and lock it down with the barrel nut, I do have indexing marks to go by as well. My rifle is set up with three barrels scopes are mounted to the barrels and I have had no problem with keeping zero

peterh5322 · Feb 28, 2007

"the pics do not show"

Click on the hidden "hot spot" near the top of the icon, and it will force loading of the photo into a secondary window.

GGaskill · Mar 1, 2007

You say on the other forum that you are concerned about retaining enough strength after removing half the threads. Why remove any threads at all? All you are saving is a few more turns of the barrel to take it off. Leave all the threads and I think your concerns about wear will be unfounded, too.

rws · Mar 1, 2007

To me, a take-down rifle would be more on the lines of a lever gun, since they pretty much all have half stocks. For a bolt gun with a one-piece stock, all you're really doing is making a switch-barrel gun. This is done all the time. With a barrel vise and an action wrench, the barrel can be removed, replaced, all within a few minutes, or a different barrel installed. On the guns with recoil lugs, a pinned lug solves the problem of indexing it when removing/replacing the barrel. One must take care about keeping the threads on both pieces clean, and use a thread lube, but it's all quite easy.

twobobbwana · Aug 8, 2007

Iron Buffalo,

I built myself a takedown .300 Wby Mag on a FN 98 military mauser in 1999 as a travel gun.

I was inspired by an article that Tom Turpin wrote on a takedown by Gary Stiles, stocked by Bill Simmen. You can see pictures of the Stiles/Simmen rifle in "Modern Custom Guns" by Tom Turpin.

It has a full barrell thread, four shot magazine, Model 70 swing wing safety, Brown Precision (??) stock, Talley QD mounts and has a plate on the front receiver ring (screwed to buttstock with female hole in plate) and the forend is attached to the barrell via a screw and boss. The forend contains a plate with spring actuated plunger that engages the hole in the buttstock plate.

The rifle has fired over 600 rounds. Testing proves that it will put 5 shots under 3/4" and I no longer attempt to resight it when I arrive at my hunting destination. Headspace still checks out as perfect.

Original plans included a .375 Wby Mag barrell and corresponding scope in another set of Talley QD rings but this won't eventuate until I get/build myself a suitable .375 barrell.

These things aren't "rocket surgery" (as a mate would say) they are just abit of machining and head scratching.

I am also currently working on a takedown 92 Winchester on the original Winchester patent. Details available from "The Winchester book" by Madis but greater detail is available in "Winchester Lever Action Repeating Firearms Volume 2 The Models pf 1886 and 1892" by Arthur Pirkle.

Hope you have a bit of luck with this project. They're a great novelty and very handy when travelling.

Iron Buffalo · Aug 10, 2007

Thanks everyone for their input.
I am about 90% done with a takedown conversion on a Rossi 92 lever action in 357 Mag.
Thanks abarnsley for the tip on the NRA gunsmithing guide. I purchased this book and it was a great reference. I used that general method with a few minor changes. That method was very practical and a straightforward approach. I’ll post some pics and outline the general process I used when I get it finished (which should be soon I hope now that I have this summers home remodeling job done)

Thanks twobobbwana for your insights. I will look for the two Winchester books your recommended. I also want to do a bolt action similar to your ’98. I have a Savage 110 lined up for this project, and will probably go with a two barrel set in .243 Win and .35 Whelen. I will also look for the book by Tom Turpin. I like to read as much as you can on a subject before I start a project, so I greatly appreciate all the tips.

Iron Buffalo

twobobbwana · Aug 12, 2007

IB,

Just make sure that the .243 and the .35 Whelen will feed in the same action. To make these switch barrells work the cartridges must have similar dimensions so that they will feed out of the same magazine, bolt head etc.

I did my takedown as a "tool less" takedown only because I like the idea. I'm assuming that you're doing your Savage using a barrell wrench.

abarnsley · Aug 13, 2007

Glad you liked that book

The only problem I have with it is how many pristine Military rifles were turned into 250.00 shooters, after 300.00 worth of work and such because of it.....

twobobbwana · Aug 13, 2007

abarnsley,

don't annoy yourself with such thoughts.

Remember "what cannot be remedied must be endured".

Yep we know that it's far cheaper to buy a pre 64 model 70 action than to pay a gunsmith to convert a military action "up to that standard" but I'd say that this site is full of people who "do it thereselves" and might have more access to an old military action than a spare pre 64 70 or a 700 Rem.

I too regret the passing of any pristine colectors peices as a result of "do it yourselfers" but I will have to naively content myself with the thought that everyone knows better than to destroy a true collectors peice............I'll sleep better in the "knowledge"!!??

twobobbwana · Aug 14, 2007

IB,

I just dug up the two magazine articles that inspired my takedown.

They are "Gary Stiles" by Tom Turpin, Guns magazine June, 1995 and "A switch - barrell rifle for the field" by James E Fender, Guns magazine, June, 1994.

The best pictures to demonstrate Gary Stiles' takedown system is in the later article. It appears that Mr Stiles did the work on both rifles. Although he rehabilitated the Remington whereas he built the Mauser.

In the 1995 article's photos you'll see that the front action ring, and corresponding barrell thread, has been extended whereas mine runs the standard length 5/8" (+-) thread length with no adverse affects.

Work on my takedown 92 Winchester is slow but it will eventually be completed.

Iron Buffalo · Aug 29, 2007

My '92 takedown conversion is essentially done except for testing and blueing the forearm plate.

Thanks abarnsley and everyone for all the good advice.

I posted some pics here:

http://www.homegunsmith.com/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboard.cgi?s=cb17a5769053a9992b806f86d1358a8e;act=ST;f=1;t=18087;st=10;r=1;&

twobobbwana,
I hope to do a bolt action sometime soon.
My Savage 110 in .243 for this project is a long action, however the magazine appears to be sized for short action cartridges. They also added a stop to limit the bolt travel to the rear. I'll have re-think my 35 cal cartridge selection. .358 Win would be the logical choice. I might do some testing to see if a long action mag will feed a (dummy) short action cartridge, but I suspect I would be far better off with two short action cartridges. A .223 and .300 Whisper would also be a neat combo....hmm...maybe I should just do both !

Iron Buffalo

abarnsley · Aug 29, 2007

I always wanted to do a .35, than realised that bullet selection was rather poor in .35 ... .338 or .375 offer many more options..

Takedown Rifle Conversion

Plastic

Titanium

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Stainless

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Diamond

Titanium

Cast Iron

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Titanium

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Titanium

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