What's new
What's new

Modify reamer pilots for oil feed system?

Mram10

Cast Iron
Joined
Dec 17, 2017
I was wondering if I could use a grinder to make a couple flats or grooves in reamer pilots. Trying to get more oil flow to push out the chips.

Avoid, “get a better oil system”. If you haven’t modified the pilots, please refrain. Thanks
 
Last edited:
I was wondering if I could use a grinder to make a couple flats or grooves in reamer pilots. Trying to get more oil flow to push out the chips.

Sounds like a recipe for the reverse. Getting chips trapped in your newly-added flats or grooves and ripping up the pilot's guide bore.

WHERE were you planning to introduce this oil FROM, at what pressure, and by what means that has proven reliable, already?

Or has not yet been, despite at least ONE 8 hour shift of global experience running piloted reamers?

Such things are done. They want greater "infrastructure" than a touch off a grinding wheel ordinarily substitutes well for.
 
The oil pump connects to the muzzle. I figured the oil would push the chips away from the pilot.
System works fine, but more pressure couldn’t hurt.
 
The oil pump connects to the muzzle. I figured the oil would push the chips away from the pilot.
System works fine, but more pressure couldn’t hurt.

More pressure, higher flow rate, and thinner but still slickery coolant, as in "high pressure" seems the most proven, yes.

Allied's videos of their spade drills have so much liquid in-play one wonders if they aren't hiding a waterjet or a nuclear reaction down in there!

Chips go by so fast the coolant almost looks empty of 'em. As a percentage of flow? It might even be so. 300 PSIG, izzat?
 
Use more pressure. I use Rustlick 225, now discontinued, at 60psi, with standard pilots. If anything, modify the screw head holding the pilot on. Cutting fluid gets thru the grooves in the bore and the grooves in reamer under the pilot. Cutting grooves in the pilot has been done by some reamer manufacturers, but unless done precisely can weaken the pilot causing it to split.
 
I make my own pilots, so I’ll try some and get back to ya. I’m wanting to modify the pilots without buying a whole new oil setup because it isn’t needed. Not looking for “get a bigger pump”. Looking for advice from those that HAVE modified pilots
 
I just modify the screw. I take a dremel with a 3/8 or so grinding drum and grind both sides of the screw head parallel to the slot. Kinda like this: )|( .

I get by with water-based coolant (Houghton HOCUT 795MP-RHS) at about 20-25 PSI using a modified carbonator pump (bypass spring replaced to give the 20-25 PSI).

 
On the PTG HSS reamers, the pilot shank is too large of a diameter to allow any significant fluting on the pilot bushing. That is why the carbide reamers and reamers set up for oil groove bushings have a small shank.

I only buy carbide reamers now but still have a bunch of HSS reamers. I use water based coolant and used to notch the screw heads to allow more flow. I quit doing that as I don't feel it made enough of a difference. I am using the factory machine pump around 30psi and am not real sure what the flow rate is, it'd probably fill a 5 gallon bucket in a minute or two. With HSS reamers, I run a macro program that progressively takes smaller pecks until the minimum I define. There's lots of time for chip evacuation.

With carbide reamers, I can ream the entire chamber in a single peck. I still program 3-4 pecks to give myself a safety spot to abort if something doesn't sound right.

This video is a HSS reamer with an unmodified screw head. Plenty of flow.
HSS reaming 6CM chamber. - Rubicon Precision, Inc.
 
without buying a whole new oil setup because it isn’t needed. Not looking for “get a bigger pump”.

Well "its PM" so you'll get both and more even if you set up a Phalanx or a Breda twin Fast-Forty to shoot down the unwanted incomings!

:)

But hey . I am a convert in the making meself.

Preferred to jest go slow, dribble neat oil or even Old Skew dark sulfurized and not have it flung all over the shop and into the dog's navel.

Mind we are talkin' serious splatter distance here, given the dog is only a consultant, and stays a good sixty to eighty feet t'other side of the road!

:)

But then? High-pressure coolant got easier to do, and seems to deliver GREAT gains in tool life AND higher percentages of really, really smooth and clean bores? I don't have to use it all the time, but I sure do want it handy!

Meanwhile it IS "PM" and as I am already into that very same Hocut or a close cousin, using GenePoole's, value-for-money compromise will be my take-away instead.

Thanks, Gene!
 
If the pilots are retained by a screw, do this:

The flutes on PTG reamers extend to the tip if the reamer, allowing plenty of flow under the bushing if you notch the screw. This is why I buy PTG reamers, I have over 100.

xKScijj.jpg


Retaining coolant flow: A drain hose returns the coolant to the sump.

67PCA1R.jpg
 
On the PTG HSS reamers, the pilot shank is too large of a diameter to allow any significant fluting on the pilot bushing. That is why the carbide reamers and reamers set up for oil groove bushings have a small shank.

I only buy carbide reamers now but still have a bunch of HSS reamers. I use water based coolant and used to notch the screw heads to allow more flow. I quit doing that as I don't feel it made enough of a difference. I am using the factory machine pump around 30psi and am not real sure what the flow rate is, it'd probably fill a 5 gallon bucket in a minute or two. With HSS reamers, I run a macro program that progressively takes smaller pecks until the minimum I define. There's lots of time for chip evacuation.

With carbide reamers, I can ream the entire chamber in a single peck. I still program 3-4 pecks to give myself a safety spot to abort if something doesn't sound right.

This video is a HSS reamer with an unmodified screw head. Plenty of flow.
HSS reaming 6CM chamber. - Rubicon Precision, Inc.

Bout to try mine for the first time tomorrow...Tannel's connector using dark sulfur thinned w 25% ATF.

Curious as to how you set your z-axis zero depth / what is used as a reference before you start cutting if it's one-shot and done?
 
Great info guys!! Thank you. I’ll modify the screw and video before and after. I will try a pilot after to see any difference. I plan on a larger pump down the road though. My fluid is simple : ridgid dark with atf (f).
 
B
Curious as to how you set your z-axis zero depth / what is used as a reference before you start cutting if it's one-shot and done?

I stand the reamer vertical on its nose and use a height gauge and find the shoulder/body transition (I don’t have the available real estate for an optical comparator at the moment). I program a roughing cycle that stops about .020” short of that. I check the HS and determine how much deeper it needs to be, then edit the finish Z depth on the next part of the program.
 
Amazing what a guy can do with a bread pan and a hunk of red rubber gasket material.

The hole in the rubber is a snug fit on the reamer shank.

Most chips drop out in the pan. There is a fine screen in the return line to the sump to catch the little chips.
 
Amazing what a guy can do with a bread pan and a hunk of red rubber gasket material.

The hole in the rubber is a snug fit on the reamer shank.

Most chips drop out in the pan. There is a fine screen in the return line to the sump to catch the little chips.

Learned to dislike plastics ages ago, so various sizes of bread pans snatched-up anytime put on "Big sale" at the El Cheapo outlets won a place in my heart just for storage, sorting, carrying fasteners and stuff to a task, holding parts removed, solvent soak, etc.

First example / reminder I had seen that adding plumbing isn't all that hard.

ISTR I even have Greenlee "chassis" punches around somewhere from vacuum tube days.

This idea wants put to use, thanks!
 








 
Back
Top