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    Default Muzzle brake?

    I have been trying to find a local gunsmith to install a muzzle brake on a Savage model 113 without iron sight. Chambered in .300 win mag, so I need some help with recoil and muzzle raising, so this is necessary for the upcoming hunting season.

    I have toyed with the thought of making my own brake and have it installed, any reason not to use aluminum for a stainless barrel? I have a machine shop and have some ideas for the design that I have not seen in after market offerings.

    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mold God View Post
    I have been trying to find a local gunsmith to install a muzzle brake on a Savage model 113 without iron sight. Chambered in .300 win mag, so I need some help with recoil and muzzle raising, so this is necessary for the upcoming hunting season.

    I have toyed with the thought of making my own brake and have it installed, any reason not to use aluminum for a stainless barrel? I have a machine shop and have some ideas for the design that I have not seen in after market offerings.

    Thanks!
    Galling, high differences in thermal expansion, and gas cutting. For a short trial it might be OK.

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    You are a machinist, right? If you can make your own muzzle brake you are certainly able to thread the barrel. You don't necessarily have to remove the barrel from the action to thread it. On a Mauser I held the action in a 4 jaw. I used a barrel protector on my live center.

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    Okay, no aluminum for the brake. Although it is a hunting rifle, one or two shots while in use, and a few more for zeroing the scope. Galling would not likely be a problem.

    I am not comfortable with spinning all of the stuff around in a lathe, I would expect to take the barrel out. This is not my cup of tea and would much rather pay someone who does this sort of thing all the time. I get paid to do things my customers understand but do not have the experience or talent to do. Yes, I have the talent, but I can make more money doing my job than it will cost to have the job done well by an experienced gunsmith.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mold God View Post
    Okay, no aluminum for the brake. Although it is a hunting rifle, one or two shots while in use, and a few more for zeroing the scope. Galling would not likely be a problem.

    I am not comfortable with spinning all of the stuff around in a lathe, I would expect to take the barrel out. This is not my cup of tea and would much rather pay someone who does this sort of thing all the time. I get paid to do things my customers understand but do not have the experience or talent to do. Yes, I have the talent, but I can make more money doing my job than it will cost to have the job done well by an experienced gunsmith.
    I am in Oakhurst CA. I am also a factory installer for KDF. Best brake you can put on a hunting rig. If we are not close to each other, the Brown Truck comes here every day.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mold God View Post
    Okay, no aluminum for the brake. Although it is a hunting rifle, one or two shots while in use, and a few more for zeroing the scope. Galling would not likely be a problem...
    Galling is only one issue. IMHO the biggest reason not to use Al for a brake if explosive failure due to grain boundary failure. Practically any flavor of steel will work fine. Galling can be an issue with just about anything on a SS barrel. A heat-proof grease such as molly grease or plumbers grease can help.

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    What is “local” to you? I’m about an hour east of Sacramento.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 300sniper View Post
    What is “local” to you? I’m about an hour east of Sacramento.
    I am in Monrovia, southern Ca.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mold God View Post
    Okay, no aluminum for the brake. Although it is a hunting rifle, one or two shots while in use, and a few more for zeroing the scope. Galling would not likely be a problem.

    I am not comfortable with spinning all of the stuff around in a lathe, I would expect to take the barrel out. This is not my cup of tea and would much rather pay someone who does this sort of thing all the time. I get paid to do things my customers understand but do not have the experience or talent to do. Yes, I have the talent, but I can make more money doing my job than it will cost to have the job done well by an experienced gunsmith.
    That happens , cant get your free time. I do this also.
    Theres a lot i will do myself matter not the trade. Although now im older and saving time is more important than money.

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    Aluminum brakes have been used successfully on large calibers (300wm, 30stw, etc) for thousands of rounds. Aluminum worked great. Not sure why people say they don’t work.

    Avoid radial brakes if you hunt off bipod unless you enjoy a large dust cloud around you.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    Aluminum brakes have been used successfully on large calibers (300wm, 30stw, etc) for thousands of rounds. Aluminum worked great. Not sure why people say they don’t work.

    Avoid radial brakes if you hunt off bipod unless you enjoy a large dust cloud around you.
    Aluminum scuba cylinders have been used successfully for more than 50 years too... However, occasionally they fail with catastrophic results EVEN AFTER annual visual and 5 year interval hydostatic testing. . Grain-boundry creep is real and makes Al a poor choice for products with high pressure high / impact loading.

    Other than that... Al will work in a muzzle brake... Until it doesn't!

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    Quote Originally Posted by MIBill View Post
    Aluminum scuba cylinders have been used successfully for more than 50 years too... However, occasionally they fail with catastrophic results EVEN AFTER annual visual and 5 year interval hydostatic testing. . Grain-boundry creep is real and makes Al a poor choice for products with high pressure high / impact loading.

    Other than that... Al will work in a muzzle brake... Until it doesn't!
    How much pressure are you expecting at the muzzle that 6061 can’t handle? On a 26” barrel, most magnums are under 1000psi at the muzzle with a 26” barrel. Hardly anything.

    Have you actually tested an aluminum brake? We have and can tell you from experience, they work with 300wm, 30-338, 338 edge and 30stw for over 1000 rounds.

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    Here we go again!

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    We have and can tell you from experience, they work with 300wm, 30-338, 338 edge and 30stw for over 1000 rounds.

    So how much flame cutting/erosion do you see after 1000 rounds?
    Last edited by GGaskill; 05-24-2019 at 01:27 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Butch Lambert View Post
    Here we go again!
    What did I say that was wrong? I’ll defer to you on wind flags, since I have no experience. How many aluminum brakes have you made or tested?

    Sorry I’m inserting actual experience into the forum. I honestly don’t care what you think. I only give input when I KNOW something based on experience.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GGaskill View Post
    We have and can tell you from experience, they work with 300wm, 30-338, 338 edge and 30stw for over 1000 rounds.

    So how much flame cutting/erosion to you see after 1000 rounds?
    We didn’t run any measurements or tests other than functionality and eye test. Shot the same, didn’t loosen and looked normal.

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    Curious where you got the 1000 psi number. I've heard estimates of 5 to 10x that. An article I pulled up shows measurements of near 5k for a 223 in a 24" barrel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Butch Lambert View Post
    Here we go again!
    LOL... Sorry but I'm NOT going to go down the rabbit hole AGAIN. I have a crap load of experience testing and inspecting Al pressure vessels. Mag flux, x-ray, ultrasonic and mechanical as well as visual... I am also VERY familiar with Hydro-static testing procedures. I think we have also established that I know a thing or two about muzzle brakes...

    I know what I know and have the experience to back it up!

    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    We didn’t run any measurements or tests other than functionality and eye test. Shot the same, didn’t loosen and looked normal.
    No actual testing??? Visual inspection only??? What experience / training does this inspector have??? Does this "inspector(s) know what grain boundary creep is??? Since fracture in Al caused by grain boundary creep is rarely visible to the unaided eye... I just hope your liability insurance is paid up!!! I know from actual testing, training & experience that you are headed for a catastrophic failure and a huge judgment. It is more likely a question of WHEN than IF.

    If you choose not to believe me, it's your loose not mine!

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    Come back when you have tested an aluminum brake and post your EXPERIENCE rather than an opinion.

    The 1k is based on another’s research of a 26” barrel (300wm and 300 wby)
    Bullet Ballistics 101: Pressure, Velocity & Distance

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mram10 View Post
    Come back when you have tested an aluminum brake and post your EXPERIENCE rather than an opinion.

    The 1k is based on another’s research of a 26” barrel (300wm and 300 wby)
    Bullet Ballistics 101: Pressure, Velocity & Distance
    If the pressure is so low at the muzzle, how is the brake going to be effective? Or is it just a placebo? I'm reading articles suggesting that muzzle brakes actually help in long range rifle shooting on the clock. I trust several of the guys in this game. I'm confident that an aluminum brake on those rifles (6mm Creedmoor, 6.5 Creedmoor, , souped up .243's, etc) would fail.

    I have used and made many brakes, mostly handgun - round count is higher than most long guns. There is no way I would install an aluminum brake on my personal rifle. There is wide variety in pressure at muzzle. Barrel length, powder burn rate, initial chamber pressure, and other factors can make a rather large difference in pressure at muzzle. I've seen brakes fail, and those that don't. I'd suggest StressProof, or something even better.

    Just my opinion, based on my personal experience.
    YMMV.......

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