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relining larger than 22 barrels

72bwhite

Titanium
Joined
Sep 26, 2012
Location
California, Ventura county
any one here actually done a larger caliber relining job
not sent it out but done it
Redmans makes them in 38 55 the cal.
I want to do but was wondering if you could glue them in
or if you need to it with solder?

old gun will be black powder only for me, and not worried about the
next guy who has it after I'm dead

yes I can buy a new barrel from greenmoutain
not a huge difference in price
 
any one here actually done a larger caliber relining job
not sent it out but done it
Redmans makes them in 38 55 the cal.
I want to do but was wondering if you could glue them in
or if you need to it with solder?

old gun will be black powder only for me, and not worried about the
next guy who has it after I'm dead

yes I can buy a new barrel from greenmoutain
not a huge difference in price

Never done it but Brownells says you can Acraglas them in place. HOWEVER, 38-55 is more powerful than what they show as approved cartridges. I would ask Redmans directly.

REDMANS CENTERFIRE BARREL LINER | Brownells

EDIT: Track of the Wolf lists barrel liners for 38-55 (item # LINER-38-55-A) sold by the inch. I would give them a call.

Barrel liners: breech loading rifle bore liners - Track of the Wolf
 
Just got my #2 Rolling Block back from Dennis Earhardt. He relined it as a 32-20 as it was originally. It shoots very well.

wouldn't mind having one of those mostly you see them in 32 rimfire
I will be doing it on a #1 that was in 50 cal.
for what I want to do with it 38 55 or 32 40 is a good choice
Remington rolling blocks are interesting I like em

I don't want a 45 70 or 50 70 not hunting buffalo or trying to knock down steel a 500 yard
 
I believe the gunsmith John Taylor re lines centerfire bpcr stuff. He’s active on castboolitts forum and is pretty helpful and open about his work.
 
I have lined 3 centerfire rifles in my home shop. 22hornet, 25-20, and 25-35. All were 1/2" dia. liners. Put them all in with Loctite sleeve retaining compound. I like to have around 2-3 thou clearance for the Loctite. None of them have shown any sign of moving. I shoot mostly cast lead, but proofed them with a substantial jacketed load. They shoot good.
 
Anyone with a lathe can do it......Glue is quick and easy,also very permanent......whereas solder can be remelted in an instant if you stuff up the chamber or something.,and the liner moved back a bit......tip...... never cut the liner off untill the job is finished ,for sure.
 
Anyone with a lathe can do it......Glue is quick and easy,also very permanent......whereas solder can be remelted in an instant if you stuff up the chamber or something.,and the liner moved back a bit......tip...... never cut the liner off untill the job is finished ,for sure.


that was my thinking,
in the direction I found online chamber was reamed before insertion
do have to find a long enough liner too those old
buffalo guns have long barrels
 
Most epoxies will also soften under heat if you need to pull the liner but I prefer solder. If you want an invisible job stop the drill just short of the muzzle and gently ream the balance of the bore. You can't see the liner from the muzzle that way. I have done longer barrels and freebored the distance to the muzzle when I couldn't get a long enough liner but it's not as nice.
 
For my money the only to secure the liner is a Loctite retaining compound like 603 or 638. Solder is a terrific PIA and totally unnecessary. Epoxy is too thick and sticky. Drill the liner hole 2-3 thou. over the liner OD and insert it vertically keeping a puddle of Loctite around the liner at the entry point. The liquid will fill all the voids and once cured is totally solid. Chamber after it cures since the liner is too thin to support the chamber reamer and make it cut properly. The liner can be removed, but you will have to heat the barrel full length to over 400 deg. On 22 barrels, the barrel material is usually soft and when you crown it with the liner in place, the joint will disappear under a tiny burr and the liner will be invisible at the muzzle. This works best when the barrel bore is a snug fit on the liner. I made my extended barrel drill out of a 8mm twist drill ground with the pilot integral. It does a nice job for Redman's 5/16" dia. liners.

RWO
 
any one here actually done a larger caliber relining job
not sent it out but done it
Redmans makes them in 38 55 the cal.
I want to do but was wondering if you could glue them in
or if you need to it with solder?

old gun will be black powder only for me, and not worried about the
next guy who has it after I'm dead

yes I can buy a new barrel from greenmoutain
not a huge difference in price

I've done a few. Here is a 1885 Win High Wall being relined to original 38-55 caliber with TJ's liner. Customer wanted to keep the original barrel markings. Someone had installed a new chamber in the past, along with a very sloppy firing pin bush job. Loctite 638 is the go-to stickum for liners. More pictures here Ken Breda - Fun project at hand. Relining an 1885... | Facebook

Win 1885 Barrel Liner Install (8).jpgWin 1885 Barrel Liner Install (29).jpgWin 1885 Barrel Liner Install (25).jpgWin 1885 Barrel Liner Install (23).jpgWin 1885 Barrel Liner Install (2).jpg
 
unfortunately when I took the barrel off and measured it,
bubba really did a number on it drilled ok for a liner and then had to
bore it out even larger for about 3 inches on the chamber end.
so no way to use a standard TJ's liner.
so it's getting a new barrel already have it just need to feel energetic enough to just do it.
I'm lazy so just got 2 of the square thread cutting tools from Brownells.
do a practice stub and the rent a reamer not going to buy one for probably only 1 chamber.

original doesn't have any Remington markings other the serial number and cal
so not that big a deal.

If done right in 20 years or so when the next guy gets it no one will even know it isn't
original. not that I care that much any way.

did get some good information for when the next guy does a search maybe.
 








 
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