What's new
What's new

remington 700 tenon length

aninchlow

Aluminum
Joined
Nov 4, 2008
Location
BC, Canada
I've been reading through the accuracy / gunsmith book from brownells and I'm a bit confused - this is my first barrelling job so I want to take the time and do it right.

If I understand it I do the following after centering up the chamber end of the barrel.

0) if I set up using the centers method not the headstock method I don't center off gauge pins?

1) cut a truing pass

2) cut my pocket (in my case I have the manson pocket cutter)

3) cut my tenon to the required diameter of my trued out action (used the dave manson accurizing kit which overcut the threads .010) so I turn my tenon to 1.075 as this is what the recoil lug reamer was set to. I've got a badger ordnance maximum recoil lug it is .313 thick. HOW long do I cut my tenon to the shoulder?

Is the threaded portion to bottom out at the back of the action perfectly?

4) once this is accomplished I should be able to close the bolt when the action is threaded on?

5) begin chambering operations?
 
I've been reading through the accuracy / gunsmith book from brownells and I'm a bit confused - this is my first barrelling job so I want to take the time and do it right.

If I understand it I do the following after centering up the chamber end of the barrel.

0) if I set up using the centers method not the headstock method I don't center off gauge pins?

1) cut a truing pass

2) cut my pocket (in my case I have the manson pocket cutter)

3) cut my tenon to the required diameter of my trued out action (used the dave manson accurizing kit which overcut the threads .010) so I turn my tenon to 1.075 as this is what the recoil lug reamer was set to. I've got a badger ordnance maximum recoil lug it is .313 thick. HOW long do I cut my tenon to the shoulder?

Is the threaded portion to bottom out at the back of the action perfectly?

4) once this is accomplished I should be able to close the bolt when the action is threaded on?

5) begin chambering operations?

This will be close but you will have to measure up your action with a depth mic. All Remington actions are slightly different.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/barrel-extensions-230259/

Make sure you take off .010 thousandths of an inch from your length measurements for crush and debris you could get in the action down the road. Except headspace of course. Figure in about .002 thousandths of an inch for crush on headspace in Remingtons as the have a separate recoil lug.
 
So I mike my depth and get x, I add my recoil lug and then subtract .010 for crush and .002 for recoil crush?

am I on the right track?

thanks!
 
So I mike my depth and get x, I add my recoil lug and then subtract .010 for crush and .002 for recoil crush?

am I on the right track?

thanks!

Crush is how much your dimensions are reduced when you tighten the barrel on with the action wrench. Remingtons and Savages generally crush .002. In hunting rifles you should allow a bit of clearance between the bolt face and the chamber face in the event that you get debris in the gun while you are hunting. Most guys allow from .006 to .010 inch. Having the bolt close when you really need it to is an added benefit. LOL
 
This will be close but you will have to measure up your action with a depth mic. All Remington actions are slightly different.

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/gunsmithing/barrel-extensions-230259/

Make sure you take off .010 thousandths of an inch from your length measurements for crush and debris you could get in the action down the road. Except headspace of course. Figure in about .002 thousandths of an inch for crush on headspace in Remingtons as the have a separate recoil lug.

I think this wont help you since this is five years later, but the initial tenon diameter is not the action ID but the recoil lug ID then turn down the tenon to the major diameter of the action thread but not before cutting a groove for thread relief between the recoil lug and were the threads end. Hopefully this person caught it before having to turn back the shoulder to the recoil lug diameter and hopefully nobody will miss this step in the future
 
I think this wont help you since this is five years later, but the initial tenon diameter is not the action ID but the recoil lug ID then turn down the tenon to the major diameter of the action thread but not before cutting a groove for thread relief between the recoil lug and were the threads end. Hopefully this person caught it before having to turn back the shoulder to the recoil lug diameter and hopefully nobody will miss this step in the future

Guess I've been doing it wrong for 30yrs.
 








 
Back
Top