Ruger 10/22 Receiver Threading

Hoosier Gun Coat · Feb 24, 2008

Trying to find the best way to thread my 10/22 receiver. I drilled for the rear cleaning hole thinking that I could run a 1/4" threaded rod through the hole with some nuts and chuck it up in my lathe. No such luck. After spinning it a few time it was noticably out of whack. Any ideas?

kilroyjones · Feb 24, 2008

What are you trying to thread on the receiver?

The 10/22 barrels don't thread into the receiver, unless there is some sort of aftermarket barrel that is threaded....

Hoosier Gun Coat · Feb 24, 2008

I have an aftermarket barrel that I've already threaded that I'm putting on.

kilroyjones · Feb 24, 2008

Ah, I didn't know there was a threaded barrel for the 10/22.

Sorry, I can't help you, my only skill is asking questions...

MDH · Feb 24, 2008

I'm with Kilroy, I've worked on a few 10/22s. Is there a reason that you want a threaded barrel on your 10/22?

If you really want to go that route, you're going to have make a jig/fixture to hold the frame in your lathe and dialing in on the barrel shank hole.

Might be easier to square up and tap on a mill.

I would be concerned about doing it though, 1 mistake and your frame is toast.

Mike Hunter
www.Hunterrestorations.com

Kurt Westfall · Feb 24, 2008

Someone years ago did that, but I don't remember there name. They line bored the action. Heres how I would try to do it. Strip the action and make a rod that will just fit in the bolt race way. indecate the rod at 2 points, one close to the recever and the other about 2" away. You want both indecators to read zero. Bore just enough to true the action up and thread. Something like this.

JimmyD · Feb 24, 2008

Is the thread size a standard size ? If so I would vote for squaring it up in a mill vise and tapping it .

koginam · Feb 24, 2008

Put it in a mill vise and indicate it in bore then then tap, after the barrel is tight mark the location of the extractor grove, pull the barrel cut the grove, I used a dermal tool with three cut off wheels to get the width.

Butch Lambert · Feb 24, 2008

My mill vise jaws are not tall enough to hold a 10-22 receiver well enough. I used an angle plate and clamped it. I tapped it in the mill. 3/4"X10. Kurt, I don't know of any thing that I could indicate and hold onto to with the 10/22 receiver in the lathe.
Butch

Kurt Westfall · Feb 24, 2008

You could be right Butch, I never tried to do one so it maybe my idea is all wet.

precision tools · Feb 24, 2008

I won't argue with Butch as he seems pretty knowledgeable, but it seems to me that tapping threads in a 10-22 receiver in hopes of improving the accuracy would be counterproductive.

An angle plate on the faceplate of the lathe with the centerline dialed in similar to Kurt's pictures would produce the most accurate set up. The threads would be singlepointed, and then would be true to the world.

gunbuilder · Feb 24, 2008

Threading a 1022

precision tools,
I was going to say that too. You beat me to it. The angle plate on a face plate is my best advise too.

I have heard that threading the receiver is supposed to help, I have not tried it.

Thanks,
Paul

Alpacca Fortyfive · Feb 25, 2008

I've no direct experience with the 10_.22 but first stop would be a target chamber and throat, then select ammo it likes.

I'd also be inclined to scrape or spot face the front of the receiver true to the bore axis, and perhaps even fabricate a thin taper bush so that the barrel comes up snug, rather than cut metal that I can't put back again.

I hope this isn't pouring too much cold water on the Idea, but in general, .22rf semi autos will shoot better than most of us are capable of, for the type of shooting you want semi auto for.

If you want fine accuracy £5 will get you an old Martini mod 12 or Martini international which will give you olympic standard accuracy, and they are capable of extracting from a fouled target chamber...

let us know how it goes

Keith

kilroyjones · Feb 25, 2008

This thread got me curious so I did a quick look thru my Brownells catalog. There is an aftermarket 10-22 receiver listed as being made by M.O.A Inc. The description in the catalog states the receiver is threaded and can be used with threaded barrels and/or standard "slip in" barrels.

There is a large market for 10-22 parts and upgrades, and I just wonder if the threaded receiver/barrel is a marketing gimic or if there is an improvement in accuaracy. Hoosier if you don't mind could you keep us updated on your progress? I would be interested in how your project turns out and if you notice an improvement in the rifle.

Kurt Westfall · Feb 25, 2008

kilroyjones I have, as have others, threaded a few 22RF, Shule 150 and Rem 541,s and they all shot better. Now they also had match grade barrels and match chambers, so weather the threading did much good I can't say. Another smith did a lot of Rem 541,s useing the factory barrel with a threaded action and most shot very good, of corse they were rechambered to match also.

Butch Lambert · Feb 25, 2008

It is a lot quicker to indicate it in a mill. If you have checked a 10/22 receiver, what do you have to indicate other than the existing tenon hole. My custom receiver has a depth of tenon of .700". A 10/22 has no raceways.
I will not claim that threading will make it more accurate.
Butch

Jim Kobe · Feb 26, 2008

I've got to agree with Butch. I haven't done one in a few years, but my method was to set it up in the mill against an angle plate, indicate in the original tenon bore and take a light skim cut with a boring bar to true it up and then tap it with a 3/4 fine thread tap supported by a dead center in the spindle to keep it straight.

It is amazing to see the difference it makes in accuracy. I used Shilen select match barrels, 16 twist, .920" diameter straight taper. All of the Rugers had slip fit barrels including the 77/22 and I have done those also.

8nman · Feb 29, 2008

Please excuse my ignorance . . . I am not a gunsmith. It seems to me the only thing you can effect by changing how the barrel seats into the action is the feed of the cartridge. The barrel has everything to do with accuracy. The quality of the barrel material and its design seems to me to be of far more impotance than how it hooks onto the works. I mean no disrespect at all. I shoot a lot of .22 rounds. What am I missing?

Butch Lambert · Feb 29, 2008

What you may be missing are bolt face not perpendicular with the bore and centered to the rim recess in the bolt face. The rim headspaces in the bolt face.
Butch

8nman · Feb 29, 2008

Yup . . . you are right. I never considered the barrel square to the bolt. Thanks for the schoolin'.

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