S&W revolver trigger stops (drill/tap)
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  1. #1
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    Default S&W revolver trigger stops (drill/tap)

    Just drilled and tapped a S&W Model 10 trigger to fit a 6-32 set screw as an external trigger stop. Broke a tap that luckily came out easily. Want to install another stop in a second S&W trigger, prefer the external over the internal rebound slide method.

    Used a 7/64 drill bit and had a heck of a time cutting into the trigger with the tap. Any suggestions to make the process a little easier (ie larger drill?).

    thanks

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    often if you can vise a part with the tap drill hole nice and straight it can be easy to tap.

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    it can also be helpful to get the tap started then hold the part in your hand and finish tap. your wrist being less rigid than your standard workholding.

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    Not to mention using a quality tap, in good shape ( like new)

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    If you can find a drop of 1,1,1 trichlor. Sweet sailing.

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    I have no experience here since my S&W Model 28 doesn't need a stop, but generally a two flute spiral ground point (not spiral flutes) works with less torque than the more common four flutes. Brand means everything. They are available from useless to excellent, so be careful.

    Bill

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    Your problem is that the triggers are case hardened, that’s where that color comes from. Try beveling both sides of the hole a bit before tapping

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    A carbide burr with a ball or round nose in a hand drill to break thru the
    hard surface. you can use a drill press but slow speed w/a little oil.
    OWLSHOP

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    Use a 6-40 or 6-48 tap and screw. Much stronger tap than 6-32. A 6-32 tap is the most prone to breakage due to its root diameter vs the thread diameter.

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    Thanks all...fyi I cut thru the case hardening to drill out the hole about .100 deep. Doesn't leave a lot of depth to work with. Only cut about 3 threads on the last trigger...but should be plenty with locktite. Have a feeling that the hole perimeter needs to be beveled as akajun noted to relieve side pressure on the tap.

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    I applaud your choice of firearm. I've had a model 10 since 1968.
    My question is why do you want the drilled trigger instead of the rebound slide pin? Maybe the external adjustment is worth it. Not saying my method is better, just wanting to learn.
    Here is one of my M-10-6s that I've carried since '73. I learned a lot by gunsmithing this one. Hammer spur bobbed, grips cut to RB specs, all internals reworked. Exterior reveals nearly a half century of use. Still, it will perform more accurately and reliably than almost any other .38 Special available.

    imgp7757.jpg

    And I just picked up a S&W M10-10. It was stupid cheap because the cylinder is hard to open. The bolt is too long. Easy fix in 15 minutes with some emery paper. I'm thinking of cutting the barrel to 3" and re-installing the front sight.

    sw-m-10-10.jpg

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