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Sandblasting?

Big Poppa

Plastic
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Location
Kentucky,USA
Looking for some advice on what types of blast media everyone here uses. I use my blast cabinet to start the metal prep portion of blueing jobs and firearm coatings. I recently upgraded to a bigger cabinet and I'm using 80 grit media I believe, just not very satisfied with the results. Any suggestions on types of media and set-ups would be greatly appreciated.:)
 
The powder coating shop I used to work at uses the aluminum oxide from Harbor Freight. Whatever is the cheapest. He used the stuff Black Magic or something from Northern Tool for a while but the other stuff is cheaper and he didn't see any difference. No gunsmithing going on though it does take off everything I've ever seen come in.
 
We use garnet that we get from our water jet guy. I figure that if it can cut through stuff, it will work for anything else. Worked out a trade for a bag, so I don't know about costing, but it sure does the job.

Lee (the saw guy)
 
Alum Oxide is the best. Garnett works well too. Grit wise, 100 - 120 is optimal. If using the 80, ease up a bit on pressure as it will actually rough the surface to an extreme.
 
We use glass bead in one blaster and baking soda in a small one for delicate parts. The soda works nice on carburators on old tractors, washes out with hot water, nothing left in nooks and cranys.
 
Of all the stuff I have used, 100 weight alox (aluminum oxide) is the best for guns. Finer grits will not cover and break a 320 belt polish very quickly and I find coarser weights leave a finish that marks and scratches very easily. I found that 100 weight garnet and fracking sand works nice and cuts fast but breaks down far to quickly in blasting tanks. Crushed glass also breaks down very quickly and washes hole edges and sharp edges on receivers so bad I will never use it again in any weight. I experimented with metal beads about the size of #12 shot which offered no coverage of polishing marks and only greyed old bluing. I got nice frosted finishes out of #5 glass beads but I had to start with a #600 weight polish to get the beads to cover polish marks. I accidentally bought a bag of #10 glass beads once. I knew better, but I poured some in the tank and tried it and found the only thing it might be good for was blasting fuzzy, wuzzy, little caterpillars and lovey, scrummy, baby butterfly's off of ladies silk undies. I gave it to my neighbor the auto mechanic to clean aluminum carbs. I generally blast at about 80 PSI.
 
Alum Oxide is the best. Garnett works well too. Grit wise, 100 - 120 is optimal. If using the 80, ease up a bit on pressure as it will actually rough the surface to an extreme.

I agree with this. Garnet is cheap but does break down rapidly, especially at higher pressures on harder materials. If you are going toi use that you will definately need a good dust extractor system, and be prepared to replenish the blast media regularly. The coarsest i will use is straight 120 grit Al.Ox at about 60 PSI, and this works fine as a prep for parkerising, or matt-finish bluing. I also have a 'blend' of 120 grit Al. Ox and fine grade AE glass spherical beads (about 320-400 size) which works fine as a general purpose blast media and for a more satin (less agressive) blast finish at about 60 PSI. I also run straight AE glass beads at the same pressure for a finer brushed finish, or for aluminum parts - but it does take forever if you are doing it on steels.
 
Off on a tangent here, but over the years I have used bead blasters with all sorts of dust extractors. To date nothing beats a wet, shop-vac. Just make certain you place it above the tank if you can and use a deceleration chamber about 2 feet above the tank so your sand does not get sucked up. The commercial cyclonic decelerators decidedly work the best, but I have seen guys use 2 liter pop bottles and admittedly they work almost as good. If you use a wet-vac remember to change the water once a week or drop in one of the bacteria killing turds that you use to keep coolant in the lathe and mill from going bad or it will begin to stink.
 
I'm using a glass bead and am not very happy with it. Have tried varying pressures from 60 - 120psi.
The Al Oxide sounds interesting for use on beadblasting Stainless steel barrels but does it leave any aluminium surface deposits that are likely to interfere with a (matte finish) hot bluing process? This is the reason I have so far avoided it.
JB
 
I blued and sand blasted with aluminum oxide for 20 years. Never had a problem. I'm sure microscopic particles are carried into the bath but its not like you're dumping a Winchester 2200 receiver into the bath.
 
It depends on the finish you are looking for. For utility type firearms painted or parkerized finishes I use 80 grit aluminum oxide.

If I am polishing and bluing a gun I will use glass bead on some areas to give a nice contrastor to give a nice satin look.You have to polish the metal before using glass beads because it is not abrassive enough to remove the old finish.
 
I've used 80-100 grit aluminum oxide with good results. Silicon carbide costs too much unless you rig up a good recovery system. I use glass beads for delicate parts, and walnut shells for really delicate parts. When you change from one abrasive to another, blow out the inside of the cabinet to avoid contamination, especially if you're going to a finer grit.
 








 
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