I am working on a GEW 98 that has had one of these installed but didn't work. It turned out to be that the bolt shroud needed to go one more revolution on the bolt body so that when the rifle was cocked, the safety could slip in front of the cocking piece. So it works but I wonder about the fact that you cannot remove the bolt with the safety engaged. If you put the safety on and lift the bolt handle to withdraw it, it immediately drops the safety to the fire position. This makes it difficult to disassemble the bolt the way Mauser intended it to be done and also does not seem to be correct. I am also surprised that the safety can be pulled out of the bolt shroud with just a casual tug on the part and this appears to be as designed. Does anybody have any experience with these and is this the way they are supposed to work? Thanks for your replies!
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Dayton Traister Safety for Mauser 98?
- Thread starter Gazz
- Start date
- Replies 10
- Views 7,557
Thank you for your reply.
I am thinking that is the Chapman type safety you have pictured. I did buy one of those for one of my own rifles but have not installed it yet. It does seem to be a better design but also requires the bolt shroud to be modified differently - it would not be useable with the way the shroud is modified now.
I am wanting to hear about the Dayton Traister Mark II safety in regards on how to make it (or is it?) working properly.
I am thinking that is the Chapman type safety you have pictured. I did buy one of those for one of my own rifles but have not installed it yet. It does seem to be a better design but also requires the bolt shroud to be modified differently - it would not be useable with the way the shroud is modified now.
I am wanting to hear about the Dayton Traister Mark II safety in regards on how to make it (or is it?) working properly.
Did the bolt shroud get notched to contain the safety when it's off (down)? Because if it did, it shouldn't fall out (when the safety is engaged, the cocking piece holds it in and you can't pull it out)
And when you get tired of the whole thing, drop a few bucks on a Dakota side safety and mill (or dremel) the little notch in the cocking piece that is needed to make it work. For the amount of money that most people piss away on sporterized 98's, the extra $140 is chickenfeed, and it is a phenomenally more functionally and aesthetically pleasing solution.
And when you get tired of the whole thing, drop a few bucks on a Dakota side safety and mill (or dremel) the little notch in the cocking piece that is needed to make it work. For the amount of money that most people piss away on sporterized 98's, the extra $140 is chickenfeed, and it is a phenomenally more functionally and aesthetically pleasing solution.
The end of the bolt shroud is essentially ground flat or straight across and I think it may need to be that way to install it. You could not install it with the safety in the on position. . It is not my rifle and the safety is not one that I would choose to install - I am just trying to make it work for the guy.
That is definitely NOT the Chapman lever, they are the Wisner's. The Wisner lever is SOOO much better geometrically that the Chapman and they come already hardened.
