first rebarreling project

Does anyone here use a .444 Marlin? I am considering rebarreling a Marlin model 336 from 30/30 to that chamber. I plan on shooting one before I get serious. Is it a good caliber for Alaska - maybe as an all-around rifle for caribou and moose and bear deterrent? What are your thoughts?

I don't reccomend doing it.
I have a Marlin 336 in 30-30 but not the .444 so I grabbed my Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook and checked the case dimentions and found them to be close but I don't believe close enough. Casehead dimentions are for 30-30, .506", for .444 .514". OAL is also close but of no concern. Casehead of .444 being larger could create more problems than it is worth as you may have to enlarge the bolt face, and there is not much left to enlarge. The extractor and ejector could also be a problem. Also I believe you would have to enlarge the ejection opening on the side of the receiver. These rifles are not terribly expensive, but are well made, accurate and fun to shoot. The 30-30 is an excellent cartridge for the average hunter and a virtual joy to the reloader. I suggest you aquire another rifle, and since Alaska is know for its large dangerous canivores, something in 45-70 or 450 Marlin would be a my choice. Both are available in lever guns.

Paul G

Thanks Paul,
I'm glad I asked this question. I was more concerned with chamber pressure than anything else and had not considered the bolt face. I guess the factory actions have a different bolt. I bought this rifle to learn about reloading and gunsmithing. So far it has been rebarreled by the factory (over bore), hand-lapped, recessed target crowned, converted to a two-shot for pointed bullets (one in chamber/one in mag) and has a barrel tensioning device made by modifying the magazine. The best I have gotten so far is 13 rds inside an inch at 75 yds from a rest (handloads at moderate velocity). Next will be checkering and bluing. I have an '03A3 action and a VZ24 - maybe one of those would be a better first rebarreling project. What do you think? Sorry for the long post.

I am glad to hear that, I was concerned that you were doing something you were not familiar with. Obviously not the case.

Accuracy like that is way more than acceptable, More like damn good.
Absolutely on the 03A3, you will definitly have to open the bolt face. I have a sporterized 03, 30-06. I have serveral Mauser actions hanging around and am currently building a Mauser in .243 Winchester. Future projects include .270, .308, 280.
Also have a 9.3X57 Mauser that I will rechamber to 9.3X62 sometime this winter.

I am strictly a lead bullet shooter using my own cast bullets. Casting keeps me busy, and warm, in the winter.

I am not familiar with the barrel tensioning device you mention. Can you explain?????

Paul G

I am also working on a VZ24 Mauser in .243 Win. I used a Midway stainless,fluted barrel and Varmiter 2 stock with a Bold trigger. It needs the metal finnished and to be glass bedded before I finnish the stock. I was thinking of having the bolt hard chromed, any pros or cons to this?

Be careful of hydrogen embrittlement from the chroming dip. Bolt should be heated to around 400ºF to drive out hydrogen from the acid. Check this professionally as I am remembering it from a long time ago.

I jewell my bolts rather than plate. I don't know how thick hard chrome is but be sure it dosn't affect headspace. Sounds like you will have a good shooter when finished. I am preparing to thread my barrel soon and have not decided on a stock yet, but think I will get laminated wood. Using a Timney trigger. Safety as yet to be determined.

Paul G.