Simple Chambering Methods
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  1. #1
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    I am making a new 16" barrel for a semi auto 9mm carbine and want to chamber it myself.

    I am not interested in theorectical perfection, just a functioning chamber that will allow me to put rounds downrange not 1/2 moa at 400 yards from a rest.

    That said, is it feasible to hold the barrel in a four jaw chuck, dial it in and then ream it using the drill chuck?

    If not, what is the simplest method that does give decent results? It isn't that I don't like to do good work but this is only a 9mm blowback and I will be happy if it is less than 2 moa at 100 yards anyway.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    MG,
    Try reamerrentals.com

  3. #3
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    MG, you obviously have a lathe and a 4jaw chuck. Indicate it in as you said, as close as you can get it. Indicate the inside of the barrel, not the outside. Instead of using the drill chuck in the tailstock, use a dead center, or live center, and push the reamer in that way. All you need to hold the reamer is a wrench to keep it from turning. Let the tailcenter fit in the hole in n the back of the reamer, that's where you push it. That is the way the reamer was made, between centers. Use plenty of oil, clean frequently, don't go too far.

  4. #4
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    i usually chamber on centers same as rws..........if for some reason u must float /chuck , u can either chuck hard & leave t/stock clamp loose & feed by shoving ( gives a float of sorts ,but wont do much for vert align.. or better , open chuck jaws .010+ & bear them against a washer against ur handled tapwrench .....again , a floating action....if ur reamer has a decent center & ur lathe is true ,drive it w/ a dead center as per rws post......if ur really good w/ a boring bar , just bore it ( article 40+ yrs ago in rifle /nra mag ..forget which ) super man gunsmith does one in 2 hrs.........( no way for me,although i have bored and also D bit reamed straight wall cases.,as well as making a 1/2 doz or so rough/finish fluted reamers ,...after seeing a couple $10 dollar hartford/redford reamers in the 60's...surely , i could also make one that i could spend half a day grinding /stoning to bring it into spec.


    best wishes
    docn8as

  5. #5
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    forgot to add....make sure ur wrench will clear bed, so if it overloads & hangs , u can let it spin .u dont want to hear the sound of a flute snapping on a borrowed/rented reamer......split clamp a piece on t/stock barrel & set up a mag indicator a/it to control reamer depth ...also an indicator on t/stock base ,so u can return it to battery after chip clearing.....on a finish reamer ,.050 may be all u need to take before clearing.....first feeds on rougher may be up to 1/4in. before clrng...depends on size, reamer,rougher bit/reamer, caliber,flute smoothness .VARIABLE

    best wishes
    docn8as

  6. #6
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    forgot to add....make sure ur wrench will clear bed, so if it overloads & hangs , u can let it spin .u dont want to hear the sound of a flute snapping on a borrowed/rented reamer......split clamp a piece on t/stock barrel & set up a mag indicator a/it to control reamer depth ...also an indicator on t/stock base ,so u can return it to battery after chip clearing.....on a finish reamer ,.050 may be all u need to take before clearing.....first feeds on rougher may be up to 1/4in. before clrng...depends on size, reamer,rougher bit/reamer, caliber,flute smoothness .VARIABLE

    best wishes
    docn8as


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