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Thread: stuck bullet

  1. #21
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    I charge $150 for 22 RF bullets and $200 for jacketed rifle bullets.
    Not in any way to be offensive or to be a troll, but there are a LOT of guys who would gulp loudly and head to the hardware store for a hammer and some rods of various materials when quoted that rate.

    What happens to the guy who sticks a bullet in the bore of a rifle that's only worth $100? I fully believe in paying a respectful wage for skilled work, but what happens when skilled work isn't economically defensible?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elkins45 View Post
    Not in any way to be offensive or to be a troll, but there are a LOT of guys who would gulp loudly and head to the hardware store for a hammer and some rods of various materials when quoted that rate.

    What happens to the guy who sticks a bullet in the bore of a rifle that's only worth $100? I fully believe in paying a respectful wage for skilled work, but what happens when skilled work isn't economically defensible?

    The average wage for a government employee in Canada is $61,000.00 per year. I make less than that and with what I make I also have to pay $1,500 a month rent for shop space, power, heat, phone, internet, bank fee's, accountant, lawyer, insurance, tools, shop supplies to the tune of $25,000 to $30,000 per year and with what remains, I pay myself, income tax and then I pay all my personal bills. Plus, like most people I live from day to day, I haven't had a vacation in 10 years, I have no pension coming to me and little in the way of savings so I will work till I die. SO. When a guy sticks a bullet in his $100 gun and can't afford $200 to fix it I guess hes in the same boat I'm in when my truck breaks and I can't afford to get it fixed. YOU GO WITHOUT ! Very simple mathematics.

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    [QUOTE=

    What happens to the guy who sticks a bullet in the bore of a rifle that's only worth $100? I fully believe in paying a respectful wage for skilled work, but what happens when skilled work isn't economically defensible?[/QUOTE]


    You buy a $200 rifle and consider the merits of factory ammunition!.......
    .... I think you asked for that response, LOL.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elkins45 View Post
    Not in any way to be offensive or to be a troll, but there are a LOT of guys who would gulp loudly and head to the hardware store for a hammer and some rods of various materials when quoted that rate....

    Then the smith would have to remove the bullet and whatever else is jammed in there. Labor is labor. Why does the gunsmith have to subsidize someone elses screw-up, or pet peeve, or whatever, just because guns are cool, or whatever reason you can come up with? Odds are the same person wouldn't bat an eye at some worthless and very expensive bling for a Harley, or flat screen tv repair, or...???
    If the gun isn't worth the cost of repair, scrap it and buy a new one. If it is sentimental and not worth the price of repair, suck it up and pay the man for his skill. Dont beat up the repair man because he charges a fair rate in return for his labor. If it is so easy and simple and the gunsmith is just gouging everybody, buy the tools and go through the learning curve and see where where it ends up money wise. I bet you would be money ahead to pay the man and get on with life.
    Last edited by kendog; 07-18-2012 at 10:03 AM.

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    What to do when the repair costs more than the item is worth? That is normally when it is time to have fun with the item in question.

    Ever see the Mythbusters episode where they were trying to blow a rifle up by obstructing the barrel? Ever want to try it yourself buy never had a rifle to do it with? Well now you do.

    Tie it to something heavy in the middle of nowhere and stand behind something very robust that could stop a bullet shot straight at you and try to shoot the stuck bullet out, cost ~$.50.

    If you really cared about the rifle then maybe you could pull the bullet out of the round and remove most (or all) of the powder . Maybe if you really, really cared you might try to fill the barrel up with grease before shooting your bullet-less round in hopes of the stuck bullet starting to move before the pressures got a chance to get really high.

    What is the worst case? You structurally damage the gun but can't tell and it sends the bolt roaring back through your eye some day when you are shooting some really hot hand loads or it blows out the sides and shrapnel injures or kill someone standing close by.

    Anther option would be to make that super short, backpacking ready rifle that everyone always wants. Hopefully the bullet made it far enough up the barrel that you will not be creating an illegally short rifle by sawing it off behind the obstruction.

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    When a guy sticks a bullet in his $100 gun and can't afford $200 to fix it I guess hes in the same boat I'm in when my truck breaks and I can't afford to get it fixed. YOU GO WITHOUT ! Very simple mathematics.
    So what I hear you saying is that you don't like poor people?

    That's what I assumed the answer would (and should) be. How often do skinflints who balk at charging shop rates for minor problems bring it back a few weeks later with major problems because they tried to apply their own "fix"? My uncle the mechanic tells me he sees that all the time: guys trying to save themselves a $100 repair bill get in way over their heads and end up spending 10 times that to put it all back together.

    I hear stories of guys bringing in bags of parts that used to be their pistol and begging someone to reassemble it for them.

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    I removed the barrel and put it in the lathe and drilled it and then taped it out. beings it was close to the chamber,I used a a unloaded case and drilled the primer hole out and then inserted it in the chamber to protect it and drilled the bullet .tapped out easy thanks for the advice.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kevinbritvec View Post
    I imagine that simply loading an empty primed case (no bullet and no powder) and firing it in a safe direction would probably accomplish the same thing. A lot more power is created simply by popping a primer than most people imagine.
    Maybe but once I fired a .30-06 in a Garand that had no powder in it. The bullet went forward until it struck the lands and stopped. Didn't even get pulled out of the cartridge when I ejected it.

    Steve

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    How much does it cost to clean a barrel with a bore snake? Well $100.00 to remove the bore snake and $100.00 to polish the screw-driver-diggy-marks out of the chamber. The barrel cleaning is free.

    gunsmith-rod-henrickson-bore-snake.jpg

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    is this method likely to work on a 1914 mauser where the complete round is corroded into the breach. it is a battle field recovered piece.

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    The chance of a hundred year old weathered round going off is negligible.What you do depends on the condition of the gun.If its just a relic,I wouldnt worry about it.If the gun is restorable to shooting condition,I would remove the barrelled action,and heat to around 350 deg C,remotely of course,with sandbags at either end.This is what we used to do with muzzle loaders that had old loads in them.You can tell by the bang and smoke when the charge is made safe.Regards John.

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    Welcome back Speerchucker, we (I) missed your wisdom.

    Tom

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    Quote Originally Posted by TDegenhart View Post
    Welcome back Speerchucker, we (I) missed your wisdom.

    Tom
    Haha, his post was three years ago!

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    For stuck bullets I use a range rod made of 3/16 brass or mild steel rod a 1/2 handle for a weight /driving point.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speerchucker30x3 View Post
    If you want a couple dry runs grab an old barrel out of the scrap bucket and drive a bullet 4 or so inches into it and then push em through a few times to work the bugs out of your system. Way back in the day I did an experiment to see if I could use more than one piston in a barrel at once. I'm pretty c h i k i n with new things. If memory serves I drove one bullet and 3 pistons through at once all 4 inches apart. The first one I did was for real though. A gun plumber friend of mine explained it to me and I went out and had at it. Back then I filled the barrels with grease with a huge syringe and tom cat catheters that I bought from a vet supply. Run the catheter down to the bullet base and start injecting grease. As the barrel fills the catheter backs out leaving the barrel full. Grease gun is 100 times faster and often push's the bullet out without pistons.
    Just as a side comment, I'm not sure how many people who shoot muzzle loaders are aware that virtually every thread used for nipples and touch hole liners has also been used for grease fittings.

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    No powder in case just the primer is often the reason. Oiling bullets causes the powder to get wet and the primer is often still good is also a cause. WD spray a gun with bullets in cylinder is another cause. Too little powder can be the cause but often they do get out just don't go very far.
    Keep your powder dry is still the best rule.

    While we are on this subject what would be the cost of re barrel a Smith and Wesson 5" 38 Special CTG pinned barrel revolver..I have the barrel purchased and just need the replacing.

    Yes I could do it but just knocking out the pins in question. And would have to make a holding jig.

    Figure it a model 10 made after 1957 because the model number 32138 inside yoke location. But I read that number is not the moder just a manufacture number

    It might be a MP? or a k
    I was told that it is a rare gun by a gunsmith years ago but can't any information on model 32138. I Bought it in mid 60s and it was a used police issue maked C.P.D.(the police department).
    Last edited by michiganbuck; 10-13-2015 at 03:39 PM. Reason: added "yes I could do..."

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    No powder in case just the primer is often the reason. Oiling bullets causes the powder to get wet and the primer is often still good is also a cause. WD spray a gun with bullets in cylinder is another cause. Too little powder can be the cause but often they do get out just don't go very far.
    Keep your powder dry is still the best rule.


    While we are on this subject what would be the cost of re barrel a Smith and Wesson 5" 38 Special CTG pinned barrel revolver..I have the barrel purchased and just need the replacing.

    Yes I could do it but just knocking out the pins in question. And would have to make a holding jig.

    Figure it a model 10 made after 1957 because the model number 32138 inside yoke location. But I read that number is not the moder just a manufacture number

    It might be a MP? or a k
    I was told that it is a rare gun by a gunsmith years ago but can't any information on model 32138. I Bought it in mid 60s and it was a used police issue maked C.P.D.(the police department).

    The cost to rebarrel in KY is 50.00 to 100.00
    Depends on how much Maching is required to bring sight blade to TDC

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    The thing we black powder shooters is literally called a "bullet puller" it's a simple screw in a brass bushing close to the size of the bore - screw it into the bullet and pull.... yes, it's dangerous.
    Though keep in mind the bullet got in the bore under human power, so it isn't really all that stuck. (if someone gets a bullet so stuck in a ML that they need a smith, then they have some real special kind of talent)
    the other thing we can use is compressed air, if your muzzle loader has a vent liner or barrel nipple - you can just screw that out screw in a brass fitting, tube and air source - pop out it goes. I think some of the setups use those little C02 bulbs. Both methods are nice as you can do them in the field.

    $200 for 3 hours setup and bullet removal?? sounds like you aren't charging enough!
    Someone doesn't like the price, they can go and find a better one, no skin off my nose - that isn't the only person getting bullets stuck...


    Quote Originally Posted by gusspeed View Post
    is this method likely to work on a 1914 mauser where the complete round is corroded into the breach. it is a battle field recovered piece.
    Please don't try that.....



    Quote Originally Posted by john.k View Post
    The chance of a hundred year old weathered round going off is negligible.
    The chances of that round being viable are actually quite good. A lot of military ammunition had the bullets and primers sealed with some kind of lacquer around the bullet and primer pocket. Gun powder does not have an expiry date - cordite does get a little weird as it ages though. Treat the gun as if it were loaded.

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    Gun powder does not have an expiry date ...

    While that statement is somewhat true, smokeless powder does not last forever. Certain kinds have very long lives but my guess is that the reason the "round is corroded into the breech" is that the powder has decomposed into acids, and corroded the case and chamber in the presence of water.

    Nonetheless, one should treat it as if it is still good and be sure that anything done trying to remove it is done in a fashion that does not expose anyone to the potential of being shot.

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    I have been very lucky when it comes to stuck bullets. I fund if they are just ahead of the throat you can generally drop a heavy rod down into the bore from the muzzle and they pop out back into the action.
    The key is not beat it to the point where you swedge the bullet and lodge it in there tighter.
    If you can do the hydraulic method it works very well.
    My last bullet removed was out of a barrel removed from the rifle many years ago. had some good corrosion going on. We put it in the barrel vise and rigged it to the hydraulic press and used some derlin plastic rods to press it out..
    Was a bit sketchy and the set up slipped a few times but it did work.

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