Weld repair of worn bolt close surface - advice requested

Hi - be gentle on me if I don't use the right terminology.

My Jr. Olympic Rifle program has some old 22LR Anschutz rifles - maybe from the 60's. They are great for the younger shooters because they are light. On one of them the surface that cams the bolt completely forward into the battery is worn so that the pin does not strike deep enough and it will not fire. Swapped bolts around and the same thing. If I put a piece of ammo box cardboard in there to help wedge the bolt forward more it fires fine. There is a light burr on the surface and it is clear that it has worn down some.

So - how to repair. I was just going to measure the current gab with a gage block and then build it up with some tig and then machine it down using gage blocks to hit the the slot dimension that I want (about 0.014" more). But they I started wondering if its hardened or not and how long such a repair would last if I ended up annealing the area.

Any advice?

There is TIG filler that will harden as it cools (it's quenched by the surrounding mass.) Don't remember what it is, though. It would have to be ground or stoned to make adjustments; it's harder than files and probably HSS.The other down side is that it may cause wear on the receiver surface and that would be harder to deal with.

I would First check the headspace with a go nogo gage to make sure that is the problem. If it is a headspace issue and I want to use the old barrel I would pull the barrel and set the shoulder back on the barrel. It would be a lot easier than welding on the action. From the face of the bolt to the face of the barrel should be .043 headspace. Since the Anschutz barrel is pinned into the action, you may have to locktite it back together which works perfectly fine for a .22lr. Machine the shoulder back and use a .043 headspace gage to set the clearance for the rim when you glue it back together with the locktite 271.

M Owens - Thank you! I'm just trying to keep these old guns going a little longer and this is a great fix.

I have welded up the receiver surface on a single-shot .22 where the bolt lug rides,oxyacetylene with carburizing flame to get a little hardness, and stoned to fit. It worked.

I don't have go/nogo - but I did a quick sloppy check with some pins. I can easily slide a 0.055" thread checking rod between the back of the barrel and the seat of the bolt. The smallest pin gage I have is 0.061" and it does not fit - so that's what it is.

You might want to contact Anschutz. Sometimes firearms manufacturers will make repairs at little or no cost as an act of good will. Especially if you are using it to train new shooters.

Bolt doesn't rotate, just the handle? A shim between the handle and bolt *could* solve the problem. Could also create some others.

Either way, first, the engagement surfaces should be clean, smooth, and square where they need to be.

There's not much magic to a rimfire headspace gauge. Simple lathe turned piece from whatever material you've got handy will do fine. Basically nothing but the rim thickness.

Don't know if you've got 54 series actions. That they're 'light' suggests the cheaper 64 series. I don't know what the 64 looks like in detail. A 54 of that vintage would likely have a wing safety on the left tail end of the bolt. 2 locking lugs, the bolt handle and another underneath but not 180 deg. I want to say it's got a groove thru it to clear the sear, maybe.

Update - all fixed with the method M Owens suggested. I Loctited it in place but also re-drilled and put a soft pin in just for piece of mind. IT was fun to blast out a Go-gage and got me using some of my "not often used" tools.