Welding 1911 frame. - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by ShiftyThor View Post
    I have been asked to look at a para ordnance 1911 as it has broken three barrel links and 3 slide stops firing 1,000 rounds. The person tried changing from number 4 to number 3 links and still had breakages.

    He had the frame machined to a square cut to fit an STI bull barrel by someone else. I have noticed that there is too much play in the barrel (with out the slide, attaching the barrel to the frame alone). Compared to my para there is a difference of around 0.3mm. The machining is very rough. Any other ideas what it could be?
    The number one thing i would check is the VIS(vertical impact surface). The barrels reward motion is supposed to be stopped by the frame and NOT the link. The barrel lower lugs are designed to contact the frame, This should also be "bow tie cut" to keep the lower part of the lugs from getting damaged and contact the lugs closer to the barrel to have less stress. By going from a 4 to a 3 link will actually make this problem worse and the barrel can not travel back as far. Sounds like when someone cut the barrel they did not know what they were doing.

    The hard part about this is the link has to be the correct size for the lower lugs and still allow the barrel to contact the VIS. So if you install a longer link to get the barrel back to the VIS it could very well Now "ride the link" in battery and not the lower lugs as it is supposed to. This can cause 3 point jams and poor accuracy. The ONLY time there should be any stress on the link is to pull the barrel down out of battery, when the gun is locked open and when the barrel is all the way back in the frame there should be NO stress on the link if the gun is setup properly.

    If you check and the link is to short to allow the barrel to contact the VIS try a 5 link and then make sure the slide stop can still contact ONLY the barrel and the link should be free. IF your lucky this might work and the timing will still be ok. If not you will need a new barrel or the frame modified.

    Here is a quick and easy way to check. remove the side stop and install it with it hanging straight down, With the gun locked open press the barrel straight back and press down on the hood at the same time. IF the slide stop is free to swing with hardly any pressure you are good to go, If the slide stop is tight and you can not rotate it very easily then link is stopping the barrel.

    PS. IF you ever have a "smith" try to tell you that installing a longer link will make the gun more accurate(by forcing the barrel into a tighter lock up). Don't walk RUN away because he has no idea what he is talking about. The barrel is susposted to be pushed up by the lower lugs not the link.

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  3. #22
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    Please forgive me for the hijacking, but there is a wealth of information here! In regards to the slide to frame fit, how much does the barrel's interaction between the frame (link and takedown pin) and the slide (lugs and bushing) factor into slide to frame fit improving accuracy? Would a sloppy slide to frame fit affect a otherwise good barrel to slide fit to any degree?

    Thank you!

    Andy

  4. #23
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    I don't think rail fit is crucial, but if it gets sloppy enough you may have to go there. I have one that groups very nicely on a verticle plane, but is awful on the horizontal plane. Given the short moment arm of the pistol; it doesn't take much to throw things off. If the slide is really sloppy; a tight link and bushing can only do so much. I have a blue print for 1911 colt. I'm going to start by comparing the piece in question with the specs and go from there. I suspect rail welding is in the offing.

  5. #24
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    There are some references to welding with/on 4140 in posts above; bear in mind that you will get hard spots doing this because the 4140 will be quenched by the surrounding cold metal.


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