Winchest 101 problem, how to take it apart?
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  1. #1
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    Default Winchester 101 problem, how to take it apart?

    I've got a japan made winchester model 101 over under that may have something broken or too much dirt in the sear/firing pin mechanism.
    I found an exploded parts drawing, looks like there's a bunch of bits in there to make it work and that switch to change which barrel fires.
    Have any of you opened one of these up, or a model similar? how much of a nightmare is it to get back together, any special tools or such required before I consider opening it to take a closer look? I'm hoping its not one of those things where you take out a screw and a dozen bits and springs fly everywhere...

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    I'd say this is very much a "If you have to ask, you probably shouldn't" type enquiry.

    While I'm no professional gun plumber, I have taken many firearms apart (and put almost as many back together )

    If it has great value to you, send it to someone who does it for a living, with a blank cheque.
    If you're willing to write it off (but hopefully not) Go smooth, be methodical. Guns are just tools like anything else.

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    Oh, and yes, there are springs. Drop your firing pins before taking it apart!

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    I'm no help on disassembly but I did have a 30 year old, at the time, Winchester 101 20ga skeet gun that started to double. It hadn't been shot that much but the lube inside was also 30 years old.

    I took it to a gunsmith who disassembled and cleaned it which fixed the problem. He didn't comment on difficulty and didn't charge me much which leads me to believe it must not have been that difficult.

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    Well, turns out there's not much to these things, just unscrew the stock (long flat screw driver) and trigger guard screw and off she goes.
    All looks good and its way cleaner than I expected, but all dry so I'll still give it a little eezox.

    Only thing I see that I've no clue what the heck it is, is this little bent wire piece that's just dangling on the little dowel pin that is just ahead of the trigger. It looks like there's a little end broken on it but I've no clue what it is, or what it would be for. I don't see it on the parts lists of the model 101 or citori stuff either. It doesn't seem to have another end to it anywhere in there that I can see. It's just there on a little pin that appears to have no purpose other than hold it there. Anyone know?


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    Nothing to add. but that shotgun I believe was made the the miruko plant in Japan you can tell buy the engraving.
    nice shotgun

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    Could the little wire just be something used to rack it in the manufacturing process, blueing maybe? then they break/cut it off and just this little piece remains?

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    Didn't the guys on CGN sort you out?? (HA!)

    I had a Miroku Charles Daily SxS in here not too-too long ago, very nicely made with decent quality. There were not less than 4 different diagrams for that one as they updated it frequently (well at least 4 times) - that part is there for a reason. (though I do not know what it is)

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    A member here contacted me with the name of the parts, the spring guide rod and new spring are now ordered.
    Once I took the barrel/fore end off it was easier to see what's missing and why this spring/rod should be there. I'm a bit surprised its such a flimsy pin/spring set up.
    Looks like I couldn't find these bits on the parts drawing because I was looking at the "new model 101" drawing, which I can only guess doesn't use these.

    Anyhow, I'll clean it up a bit in the ultrasonic and eezox it and get it back together when the parts arrive.

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    For all you posters, the 101 and miroku/Citori shotguns were made in different plants in Japan. 101's were made bu "Kodensha" and the Miroku/Charles daly/ Citori were done by Miroku.

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    Got her fixed up from the looks of things. I had the feeling I should modify the new cocking plate spring guide rod a bit when I eyeballed the whole thing as it looked a bit long but tried it anyway and it broke on the first try opening it, tiny brittle steel thing, no wonder the previous one was long long gone too... so then I made my own pin with 1/16th stainless Tig filler, welded the pin loop so be sure it stays on there good and made it to the length/shape I thought would work, tried again with the new spring and seems to be working great, no binding.

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