Crash. Can I tram a Haas Mini Mill myself?
Close
Login to Your Account
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Arkansas
    Posts
    1
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0

    Default Crash. Can I tram a Haas Mini Mill myself?

    I crashed the mini mill. Long story short, it was a plunge, and the 45 chamfer on the tool holder pushed into the corner of the steel work, pushing the spindle sideways. The spindle sounds fine and the machine seems to cut fine. Except a face mill shows that the machine is out of tram. I swept an indicator and its showing about 0.003"-0.004" across 10 inches.

    I've seen in a 10 year old thread that this can be shimmed without too much trouble. Has anyone out there done this?

    Are these the correct bolts to loosen (see picture)? I figure I loosen these bolts, use the threaded hole to jack the column casting up, then shim and tighten it back down.

    I know this probably isn't the proper way to do it since the spindle and rails may no longer be perfectly aligned to each other, but is it really that bad of a method?

    Its a new mill, will this void the warranty?

    minimill.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    bainbridge island
    Posts
    1,044
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    196
    Likes (Received)
    252

    Default

    no those bolts appear to be the column.

    you will probably need to remove a bunch of covers around the spindle to get to the bolts that hold it to the z axis assembly.

    somewhere behind all that https://www.haascnc.com/content/dam/...s/original.png

    allegedly there are shims under those 6 bolts that hold the spindle in the machine, so fixing it may be as easy as replacing the shims.

    I'm assuming the crash shifted the Z axis assembly relative to the bearing blocks... if that's the case it makes me wonder if, in theory at least.. you should loosen the bolts on the bearing blocks and re-tighten them. the reason why being that if only 2 or 3 of the blocks shifted, the 1 or two that didn't would retain a significant amount of torque in them, which would cause that block to wear out faster.

    Its a new mill, will this void the warranty? good question.

  3. Likes bsg liked this post
  4. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    People's Republic
    Posts
    2,394
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    148
    Likes (Received)
    1750

    Default

    I guess I would want to figure out is it the axis or the spindle

    so if an indicator on an angle block shows the drift when you move the Z then the entire axis is kicked out.

    If not then the spindle within the axis is out

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Imlay City, Michigan
    Posts
    1,819
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    86
    Likes (Received)
    179

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by johansen View Post
    no those bolts appear to be the column.

    you will probably need to remove a bunch of covers around the spindle to get to the bolts that hold it to the z axis assembly.

    somewhere behind all that https://www.haascnc.com/content/dam/...s/original.png

    allegedly there are shims under those 6 bolts that hold the spindle in the machine, so fixing it may be as easy as replacing the shims.

    I'm assuming the crash shifted the Z axis assembly relative to the bearing blocks... if that's the case it makes me wonder if, in theory at least.. you should loosen the bolts on the bearing blocks and re-tighten them. the reason why being that if only 2 or 3 of the blocks shifted, the 1 or two that didn't would retain a significant amount of torque in them, which would cause that block to wear out faster.

    Its a new mill, will this void the warranty? good question.
    I did this on a TM1 we had at a previous shop, the head was out of tram left to right.....loosened the bolts on the bearing blocks and used jack screws to make fine adjustments to get it back in tram!

    The machine ran fine after words with the tram back in spec!

    Kevin

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Maryland
    Posts
    754
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    478
    Likes (Received)
    436

    Default

    First thing.
    The bolts in your photograph - do not touch them with a wrench EVER!

    Second.
    Void warranty - most certainly!

    Third.
    There is a difference between the Z axis casting being racked and the spindle not tramming to the table.

    You wrote "I swept an indicator and its showing about 0.003"-0.004" across 10 inches." you did not mention the axis?

    Is it X or Y?

    Think of the circle as a dinner plate, is it tilted right/left (X) or forward/back (Y)

    If along X axis I could see bsg's solution. Along the Y axis I would suspect some serious damage to the rail bearing
    cartridges,possibly stretched bolts?? In either case however you could correct it by tramming and shimming the
    spindle face mount as mentioned. If you do the trigonometry it does not take much to make the error your measuring.

    I would suggest some serious close examination by expert and experienced persons. No insult intended, we all learn everyday,
    but if you thought to work bolts in your picture you don't seem to understand the construction of the machine.


    I have done this on my 1991 VF 0 I rebuilt. I even found a difference between having the middle two base jack screws tight or loose. It took me a very tedious eighteen hours over two days to go from the numbers you are seeing to less than 0.0002". A task not to hurry nor bulldoze, this is machine repair at one of its its highest levels. That was five years ago and two minor D'oh! I figure not bad for her 28 years.

    If you can shadow the expert help it would be a great learning opportunity for you. I have done this throughout my career and many priceless lessons learned. A friendly helpful attitude and offer of adult beverage after work has great value.

    Submitted with respect and encouragement,
    B

  7. Likes Kevin Wilkins, countryguy, DavidScott liked this post
  8. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Erie, CO
    Posts
    114
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    10
    Likes (Received)
    8

    Default

    If it might be an issue to void your warranty, would you be better off having it done though a shop to maintain your warranty.

  9. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Washington
    Posts
    2,441
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    951
    Likes (Received)
    991

    Default

    Most likely you moved the head casting on the rail blocks, the bolts are not very big or very tight. This will also put your nut out of alignment with your screw, same for your tool changer. You really need to have this fixed by someone who knows what they are doing.

  10. Likes Kevin Wilkins, johansen liked this post
  11. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Country
    UNITED STATES
    State/Province
    Michigan
    Posts
    9,278
    Post Thanks / Like
    Likes (Given)
    3156
    Likes (Received)
    3341

    Default

    Can't tell much from photo..But

    Calculate the shim need. if you find .003-.004 in a 10" circle that is about 3 tenths per inch.
    So if the thing's base is 4" then the shim might be a little over .001 to a little over ,0015


Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •