Haas lowercase gggggggg

Hi everyone,

Having the classic gggggg go across the screen. 1999 vf0e. Haas tells me on the phone its definitely the processor, not the keypad. The guy I talked to on the phone is knowledgeable, but he also has mis diagnosed my problems before for another machine.

Anyway, it comes and goes but yesterday it wouldn't go away. Turned the machine on and off and it wouldn't do anything with the keypad. I unplugged the ribbon cable and plugged it back in for the keypad, and it worked again, but was still typing lowercase ggggggg. Any insight on this would be great. Really hoping I don't need a new processor but according to haas, I do.

if upper case G's I'd say keyboard. lower case I'd lean to processors issue. I don't remember a haas keyboard with anything lower case.

MMWLLC said:

1999 vf0e.

Click to expand...

Hey, what options does your machine have?
Any possibility you'd be willing to share your backed up parameters for this machine?

I also have a 99 vfoe that I'm gonna be trying to ressurect. Battery got unplugged and previous owner said he never had the disk. Although our machines may be configured differently, I should be able to use most as a starting point.

Thanks

Tryhard said:

Hey, what options does your machine have?
Any possibility you'd be willing to share your backed up parameters for this machine?

I also have a 99 vfoe that I'm gonna be trying to ressurect. Battery got unplugged and previous owner said he never had the disk. Although our machines may be configured differently, I should be able to use most as a starting point.

Thanks

Click to expand...

send an email to motivemachineworks at gmail (.) com

I actually backed up the paramaters/ settings because I had a processor issue on a different machine. I have rigid tapping, and P cool as options. I think that's it.

I did a very long post here on one of the solutions to the lower-case 'ggg' issue. Just search for 'countryguy' posts. My issue was repaired myself w/ a .21cent cap from Amazon. Not the $3000 for R&R or $4000 for a CPU exchange from others. C41 if I recall, but it's all in my post.

The replaced part was in the comm's chip and part of the -12Vdc requirement for RS-232 communications. (the -12 for this Chip is 'derived' internally and why it needs the Cap. (per from the datasheet on the part)).

It could be the chip itself or something along the way .. .but C41 should fix it. See my post for for the TS100 solder iron as well if you elect to do yourself.

Best,
GC

countryguy said:

I did a very long post here on one of the solutions to the lower-case 'ggg' issue. Just search for 'countryguy' posts. My issue was repaired myself w/ a .21cent cap from Amazon. Not the $3000 for R&R or $4000 for a CPU exchange from others. C41 if I recall, but it's all in my post.

The replaced part was in the comm's chip and part of the -12Vdc requirement for RS-232 communications. (the -12 for this Chip is 'derived' internally and why it needs the Cap. (per from the datasheet on the part)).

It could be the chip itself or something along the way .. .but C41 should fix it. See my post for for the TS100 solder iron as well if you elect to do yourself.

Best,
GC

Click to expand...

I saw the post. Thanks. Any chance you have another link for the capacitor? That link in your post is no longer active. Also, by doing that, did it require you to reinstall software?

if the battery is good, and it hasn't been disconnected, ( and there isnt any other issues that would drop the voltage to the battery/ memory part of the board. the memory should still be there.

Here's a cap.... also digikey . com if you only want to look there.
1uf 25V Tantalum. This is polarized. It needs to go on w/ the red strip in the direction as the other.

Don't set the CPU board on metal, and use static wrist strap protection and you should be fine. My program's did not get lost...


uxcell 1uF Tantalum Capacitor, Chip SMD Electrolytic Capacitor 25V 7343D 20% Tolerance 3X2X2mm 10pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


I suppose you could use these... cut the legs really short. cannot recall how much room is in there. if you have never done SMD. work. these might be easier. again, cut the legs short. no long antenna's.
uxcell 1uF Tantalum Capacitor, 25V 2 Pin Yellow Radial Electrolytic Capacitor Dipped Tantalum Bead Capacitors 5pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Countryguy,


Here is what I'm about to order.


Amazon.com: Anti-Static Mat ESD Safe for Electronic Includes ESD Wristband and Grounding Wire, HPFIX Silicone Soldering Repair Mat 932degF Heat Resistant for iPhone iPad iMac, Laptop, Computer, 15.9” x 12” Grey: Electronics


Amazon.com: NovelLife 65W Mini TS100 Electric Soldering Iron Kit,Adjustable Temperature,Programmable STM32 Chip,Digital OLED Screen Display,Fast Internal Heating with TS B2 Solder Tip,24V Power Supply,XT60 Cable: Home Improvement


MG Chemicals RA Rosin Flux Paste, Amber, 50 g Jar: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


uxcell 1uF Tantalum Capacitor, Chip SMD Electrolytic Capacitor 25V 7343D 20% Tolerance 3X2X2mm 10pcs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific


TABIGER Desoldering Wick & Desoldering Pump, 3 Pcs Solder Sucker & 2 Pcs Solder Wick(2.5mm Width, 1.5m Length), Solder Remover Kit for Desoldering - - Amazon.com


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM0R05O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A1UAQ41KV8L37J&psc=1


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VT4MLD1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=A2SCLCWYE2XLX3&psc=1


Anything else you would recommend?

I'm going to be extra careful when I do this. I was quoted $2200 for a repair. The way I look at it is the $160ish I'm spending is a gamble. If it works, I save $2000. If it doesn't, I have to get it repaired anyway. Luckily I have a brand new doosan that will get me through. So if this doesn't work, It's not the end of the world. The extra spindle is nice, but not 100% necessary right at the moment with my workload, so being down a week or so won't matter. I'm realllllly hoping that I don't need to have software reinstalled. I have a friend who is a haas tech who will probably come in for me and install for $100 and a case of beer, but he might not be able to get there for a week or 2. Parameters and settings are already backed up, so we're good there.

Good Morning MMW LLC,
Add these two items if ya can. A PC board's 101 tools from my bench days.
30gauge wire. Super slip side cuts. 30gauge solder(optional but you need something thin).

StrivedayTM 30 AWG Flexible Silicone Wire Electric wire 30 gauge Coper Hook Up Wire 300V Cables electronic stranded wire cable electrics DIY BOX-1 - - Amazon.com

30gauge solder is more optional... but I use a 30gauge.. mostly from my SMD days for smaller parts. .3mm or .6mm
Mudder 0.3 mm Lead Free Solder Wire Sn99 Ag0.3 Cu0.7 with Rosin Core for Electrical Soldering 30 g - - Amazon.com



Micro Cutter: Side Cutting Pliers: Amazon.com: Home Improvement


You probably wont even need the suction pump item. it's really tiny in there. REally tiny. The 'pads' copper traces are really delicate as well. so trying to heat and muscle it off will just pull up the trace. (copper pad).

Not sure on how to explain.. but I'll tell you my madness: The way I did this was to set the TS100 to like 575F. I CUT out the old cap ( but in half ) with the super sharp sidecuts. Had my fine tweezers, Heated one side and tweezed it off in two parts. Put a bit of solder on the pad w/ the 30gauge solder... (sort of puddle it up a wee bit) and then w/ the tweezers, place the new cap on. Solder one side at a time. its a touch and done w/ a little solder on the pad already.

the other option: is to heat one side... and use the solder wick to suck it up. not too long or the pad will just peel and turn to mush on ya. or you could try to lift one side up at a time.... do what you know your skills are.

the 30gauge wire... If if you ruin a pad / copper trace on 1 side or the other- Fear not.... All you will do is solder in a short piece of the 30gauge wire as a new trace. The Trace was easy to follow and you just tuck it in at a point. (again... if we get to this). You'll glue down the cap after your run it in. if I recall, I even did this on one of mine. One side of the trace peeled up... I just spliced in a 30gu. to ensure I would NOT need to take out the CPU again. I hate pullin all those damn cables.

Maybe a youtube video or two on SMD removal... lots there too. in the end it's two wire traces to the Comms IC. so can be repaired pretty easily w/ some PCB skills.

If this does NOT fix it.. then it's into that 1 COmms IC or a few things in the -12 line.. but I'm pretty sure this will do the trick.

PM me if you need to give me a shout on the old voice tech.. (lol... the phone).
Peace..
GC.

Thanks Countryguy! I might take you up on the phone call. If this fixes it I owe you a beer. Or a giftcard for some beer. You have been really helpful!

I ordered everything including the snips and the wire. The 30 gauge wire was in one of the links i sent initially. Going to take this apart sometime this week. Truth be told I hate messing with this shit. (i like to make parts) but right now I can't afford another new doosan (what I really want) so you gotta do what you gotta do. If I can't get it I figure, the worst that happens is I get it sent to get rebuilt and pay the $2200. Time will tell!

Update:

Countryguy seriously thank you for all of your help. did exactly what you said, cut the C40 Capacitor in half with the cutters you recommended. Seriously this is a sweet victory. Spent i don't know 4 hours today including running to lowes and eating lunch? on the entire job. The messed up part is fixing the board literally took 20 mins? and the $1 capacitor... No offense but I don't understand how these companies charge $2200- $3500 for that. I understand overhead/ the value of time, I really get it. That seems like a $500-1000 job tops to me. I'm definitely not an expect with anything related to this but damn.


Anyway, I put everything back together and it has been powered on for 30 minutes. No gggggggggg so far. All software/ paramaters etc saved. Nothing lost. I will update Monday when I have the machine powered on for most of the day. Glad to be doing this when this machine is my "backup machine," as this used to be my main one. Seems like we got a winner!!!!!!!

Love hearing stories like this. CountryGuy and Hoss710 are absolutely lifesavers. Couple others here are good too.
But these two guys have been hands-down the best part of clicking on this site. For me anyway.

Cheers!

HAPPY to keep that money in your pocket. Just like my post on the dang white 15/20 HP Vector drive. Paid $1K for R&R only to find $2 bucks in parts replaced after warranty returns. In then end I R&R's the entire thing w/ Digi-key and Amazon parts for I think $350. That's the ENTIRE lower end on those. So.. this racket needs to stop taking from us SBO's

MMWLLC said:

Update:

Countryguy seriously thank you for all of your help. did exactly what you said, cut the C40 Capacitor in half with the cutters you recommended. Seriously this is a sweet victory. Spent i don't know 4 hours today including running to lowes and eating lunch? on the entire job. The messed up part is fixing the board literally took 20 mins? and the $1 capacitor... No offense but I don't understand how these companies charge $2200- $3500 for that. I understand overhead/ the value of time, I really get it. That seems like a $500-1000 job tops to me. I'm definitely not an expect with anything related to this but damn.


Anyway, I put everything back together and it has been powered on for 30 minutes. No gggggggggg so far. All software/ paramaters etc saved. Nothing lost. I will update Monday when I have the machine powered on for most of the day. Glad to be doing this when this machine is my "backup machine," as this used to be my main one. Seems like we got a winner!!!!!!!

Click to expand...

I work for a small manufacturer, been here about 5 years but I'm a longtime CNC machinist. We have a 98 VF3 I manage to keep running. I'm strong mechanically, but ignorant to component level electronics. I often lurk on this board as a resource when I have issues.

The small gggg started about a month ago and progressed to the point that last week the machine was unusable. we ordered the capacitors and I pulled the machine apart. An electronics partner of ours took the board with him, and he tested and said the C40 cap was bad, so I had a good feeling we were on the right path. He replaced components friday afternoon and the board was on my bench this morning.

After carefully reassembling I powered up the mill, to my surprise it booted up as always. I ran the program that was in it, and everything seems great. Its been powered up a couple hours now and i have no reason to believe our issue has not been resolved.

Thanks a million (or about $15K+) Countryguy!

I did this one my vf3. No more ggggggggg. But now it can't find home. When I do a zero return they move the wrong way. When I jog the axis by the controls they move the correct direction. I triple checked all the wires and have found nothing wrong. Ideas????

Do all axes move the wrong way? If it’s just one axis there’s probably a chip on one on the switches. Take off the way cover and clean it off.

Had the same thing once... Chip wedged into a home switch on Y... Yep. Use DIAGS and you should see it's a "1". Agreed it's odd to see it go backawards.

Nutuncommon said:

I did this one my vf3. No more ggggggggg. But now it can't find home. When I do a zero return they move the wrong way. When I jog the axis by the controls they move the correct direction. I triple checked all the wires and have found nothing wrong. Ideas????

Click to expand...

Nutuncommon said:

I did this one my vf3. No more ggggggggg. But now it can't find home. When I do a zero return they move the wrong way. When I jog the axis by the controls they move the correct direction. I triple checked all the wires and have found nothing wrong. Ideas????

Click to expand...

I had the same problem when I started up my new to me(abused by previous owner) hs-1. basically the limit switch was sticky and stuck down. the controller tells the axis to move away if the switch is stuck down. you can electrically test the switches with a multimeter.

Do any of you have an extra one of these capacitors that i could buy. I can't seem to find them anywhere. Amazon no longer carries them.