Haas VF-1 repeating eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
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  1. #1
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    Default Haas VF-1 repeating eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

    I have an old-ish Haas VF-1. Lately have noticed that the screen shows repeating lower case "e" at the bottom as seen in the attached picture. If reset key is hit the letters go away for a second and then come back. I was told this is indication that the processor board is going bad and a replacement is not available from Haas - only solution was an upgrade to new LCD and new processor boards which was estimated at $10k+ ... any ideas? thanks!!

    img_9708.jpg

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    I suppose it's possible it's a bad membrane keyboard, which should be available and much cheaper. If you open the cabinet and trace the OEM keyboard cabling you might find a connector that allows a "regular" computer keyboard to be swapped in for testing. I don't know this for a fact, haven't done it myself, but it's worth a shot.

    Just be careful, make sure power is off while you're in there and you don't get zapped by the display's HV transformer. Even disconnecting the stock keyboard will tell you something if the "e" repeat stops.

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    The keyboard has a ribbon cable connected to a daughter board behind the keyboard.
    If the "e" appears after startup before using the keyboard then you can disconnect the keyboard ribbon and see if the "e" does not appear. At least then you know it is the keyboard and not the daughter or MOTIF boards.
    You can also go to the MOTIF board and pull the ribbon cable P10 to disconnect the keyboard.
    Also try hitting the "e" key a few times to see if it is sticking. Or when it happens, see if holding the shift key changes it to a capital "E".
    I know of someone making replacement keyboards if you need one.
    There is no way to connect a PC keyboard.

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    Quote Originally Posted by magno_grail View Post
    There is no way to connect a PC keyboard.
    Cool, thanks for the correction.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pdizzle View Post
    only solution was an upgrade to new LCD and new processor boards which was estimated at $10k+ ... any ideas? thanks!!
    Anyone else find it utterly amazing at how badly the machine companies fuck the user when it comes to computer parts?
    10k+ would build one hell of a desktop computer with some really nice 27" triple 4k monitors.

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    Cough, I'd take a "broke VF-1" off your hands Maybe I should start a side biz fixing these things...

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    take the the physical keypad plastic thing off and clean that and what is behind it off and put it back together. That has fixed that same type of problem on Haas machines for me a number of times.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mtndew View Post
    Anyone else find it utterly amazing at how badly the machine companies fuck the user when it comes to computer parts?
    10k+ would build one hell of a desktop computer with some really nice 27" triple 4k monitors.
    It's all economy of scale. $10k could build a great computer to run in today's world. Go price new components for a computer for the world of 1995, if you can get them at all.

    If you guys can't handle $10k to fix a Haas, don't ever buy and Okuma, Mori, or Mazak. Hell, I've priced out single gears that cost $10k. It's not just the computer that costs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ewlsey View Post
    It's all economy of scale. $10k could build a great computer to run in today's world. Go price new components for a computer for the world of 1995, if you can get them at all.

    If you guys can't handle $10k to fix a Haas, don't ever buy and Okuma, Mori, or Mazak. Hell, I've priced out single gears that cost $10k. It's not just the computer that costs.
    +2 on that. Especially Okuma they are brick houses, but when one of the bricks fail, holy shit.

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    We've beat this particular horse to death a couple of times on here, regarding this exact situation (Haas not supporting their controllers on 10 year old machines.)

    Obsolete processor board?

    This particular problem with Haas is very frustrating, especially since their first suggested 'fix' for everything to do with their controllers now seems to be "$10,000 upgrade to a new controller"

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    Quote Originally Posted by litlerob1 View Post
    +2 on that. Especially Okuma they are brick houses, but when one of the bricks fail, holy shit.
    Really? Ours have been rock solid. With the exception of our older Okuma that needs a new Y axis ball screw because someone never greased it.

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    Hi.
    I've seen your problem with the eeeeee.
    The same happens to me. Have you managed to solve the problem?

    Thanks a lot

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    What did you do? It's been 2 years - what about a follow up?

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    I disconnected the keyboard ribbon completely and the repeating e persists.

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    Quote Originally Posted by magno_grail View Post
    The keyboard has a ribbon cable connected to a daughter board behind the keyboard.
    If the "e" appears after startup before using the keyboard then you can disconnect the keyboard ribbon and see if the "e" does not appear. At least then you know it is the keyboard and not the daughter or MOTIF boards.
    You can also go to the MOTIF board and pull the ribbon cable P10 to disconnect the keyboard.
    Also try hitting the "e" key a few times to see if it is sticking. Or when it happens, see if holding the shift key changes it to a capital "E".
    I know of someone making replacement keyboards if you need one.
    There is no way to connect a PC keyboard.


    I disconnected the keyboard ribbon completely and the repeating e persists.

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    Here is the usual repair thread I did. It'll cost you a PC replacement power supply (since your in there) and a .27c tantalum cap from Amazon. all the parts are listed in my post.

    Newbie rebuild - 98 orig membrain/CRT- small "e"' all the time on the input line....

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    Quote Originally Posted by countryguy View Post
    Here is the usual repair thread I did. It'll cost you a PC replacement power supply (since your in there) and a .27c tantalum cap from Amazon. all the parts are listed in my post.

    Newbie rebuild - 98 orig membrain/CRT- small "e"' all the time on the input line....
    Excellent post! Thanks for the directions, however ambiguous the actual cause of it was - I will work at some the fixes you done to yours.

    - Capacitor C40
    - PS...? (which one idk yet lol)

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    ok... a bit more time now....
    Before you do anything, get all your (4) parm files saved off. in duplicate.... ;-)
    Make sure you have all your unlock codes someplace.
    You may want to just get a new CPU batt while you get this taken care of.

    I explain how to replace all the caps in the PC Low-Voltage power supply. This is the +5 +12 -12 and it has the power cables that run to the processor boards. (btw/ for RS2332, and this C40 circuit the -12 is derived and not from that PC supply. There is another post I did not find. Its from around the time of mine, and w/ another guy w/ the same issue. He just bought a PC replacement supply for $40... that is my suggested course in the near future. Forget yanking all those caps and making smoke for $40.... just buy it.

    Some posts in the web note to TRY the low voltage supply first for the repeating chars, (as well as unplugging the keyboard ribbon) ... BUT... neither fixed my issue, or the other guys. It's just part of making good clean CPU and digital power for $40 for your older system.

    anyone w/ PCB board experience should be able to replace that cap for you. took me 10mins. The copper traces on the board from/to the cap are very delicate. a solder point will end up pulling up the wire traces if you leave it on too long. Get some #30 gauge wire. Each side of that .27c cap goes to a spot or a pin on the RS232 chip which you can just jumper wire to if needed .(if you ruin the copper traces). 30 gauge solder is all you need. Dont try this w/ some mongo 1/8 round hunk o' solder rope.

    Getting the dang board out and back in will be the hardest part. Also, buy a static-wrist strap protector. Pack of 3 is like $5 on amazon. Use it.

    Take pictures and Mark ALL of your connectors w/ marker as you take them off if you cannot clearly read and verify the label on the wire or end for it's location.

    Good luck.

    Quote Originally Posted by Miklovin View Post
    Excellent post! Thanks for the directions, however ambiguous the actual cause of it was - I will work at some the fixes you done to yours.

    - Capacitor C40
    - PS...? (which one idk yet lol)

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  25. #19
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    Tantalum capacitors generally fail in a dead short scenario. Since those are charge pumps and there is no significant current across them, they wouldn't go BOOM if they shorted.

    I would replace C37 through C40, since all of them are part of the charge pump for the line driver/receiver.

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    countryguy thank you again for your time in this. I've run out of time for the week and will revisit monday, withe PS swap results.


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