HELP: 'new to me' '98 VF-OE getting code 107 E-stop at spindle speed change - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    actually try disabling switch on the fly first. and see if the spindle stops then switches. then turns back on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tryhard View Post

    Could you please share a few more details?
    Do you have a static or rotary type phase converter?

    Rotary

    Anything special or modified about it?

    Nope, built by a guy on a farm in Missouri, bought on ebay.

    Did 1, 2 or all of those machines ever run at the same time?

    They all ran at once quite often, plus saws.


    What are your wire gage sizes? Like from main panel to rotory box, to sub panel, to idler motor, to a VF2?

    I don't recall off hand, but I think maybe 8 ga. Should have been larger.

    What is your largest VF2 spindle Haaspower?

    Both are 15 hp


    Any of your VF2s have the wye-delta option?


    No Wye-Delta




    I will be doing that today and let you know the outcome.

    Thanks!

    Hope this helps.

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    Thank you Machineit2! May need to pick your brain again once I know more about my struggle.
    A second VMC in the garage would certainly be awesome.

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    Default That fixed the problem !!!

    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss710 View Post
    actually try disabling switch on the fly first. and see if the spindle stops then switches. then turns back on.

    Quote Originally Posted by machineit2 View Post
    I ran two VF-2's and a Hardinge CHNC 1 off of a single 20 HP converter on a 40 amp breaker for many years. Finally got another 30 HP converter and split them amd other equipment up, but never a problem.

    The created or wild leg should be on the center terminal. The outer two are used for solenoids etc.

    Mike

    First ran thru the test program after disabling the Delta/Wye "on the fly" parameter. Then tried it disabling the Delta/Wye altogether. Still had the symptoms. So decided to swap the wires as advised by Machineit2.
    I swapped the leg created from the phase converter with the wire in the center lug position. Not exactly sure that was the problem because after tightening the lug I also went downstream with the screwdriver tightening all of the large lug type screws. Found some that were only millennial tight....

    THAT FIXED THE PROBLEM!!!


    Hoss710, THANK YOU !!!!!

    Machineit2, THANK YOU !!!!!

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    Glad to hear you got it going. Go cut something.

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    Still have some small issues to iron out. I'll start another message for that when I get a breather. Hint: it will be about shuttle motor. Saw somewhere that you had similar experience.
    Motor was very very slow and would error out with clutch arm nearly halfway before the next switch. Took it apart and cleaned it. (Was very nasty) reassembled it with new brushes and now it's only very slow. (But improvement from very,very slow)
    Anyway since now it is making it about 5/8 the way consistently I went ahead and adjusted the timeout error to accommodate. Hoping problem is now only brushes need to be worn in. But shuttle is currently seems a couple of seconds slower than it should. Have not measured the voltage yet. Spindle/Power was my biggest concern. Next on the hit list is replacing a leaky Mac valve on the air/oil atomizer thing. But right now buried in work.

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    1st check for a stuck switches if the home switch sticks it will fault out without going very far. 9 times out of 10 it's a stuck home switch. the tenth time it's a bad relay or resistor on the IO board.

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    I've worked the 2 switches while dousing them with contact cleaner. How to test otherwise? (goes slow both ways) also have swapped the 4 relays in various combinations. First I've heard of a resistor potentially being the problem. Which one?

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    go to diagnostics screen to discretion inputs . if you look down thru the list you tool change in . tool change out. that's how you can test the switches. the resistors are on the IO board top right the are about 2 inches long and white in color. check value, check forvdis coloration. check soldier joints. also when you inserted the new brushes did they slide in and out freely? they can feel slightly sticky as you slide them in and out. if they are that way. pull them out even if they are new, and sand a few thousands off of the sides until they float smoothly in the brush holder. a sticky brush can make a motor run slow.

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    tip of the day for ya.if your looking for a easy way to send the toolchanger back home . under the jog button is zero return. push zero return. then go to the letter key pad bottom center and push Z once. then go back up were the zero return button that's under the jog and 3 buttons to the right says Zero singl axis. push it . tool changer will go home . then Z will re home itself.

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    Default Haas shuttle motor resistor

    Here are what they look like.
    Not sure if the double stack is a Haas factory thing or a field repair? Resistor under the two stacked looks a lil ugly at top lead. Perhaps mild discoloration on the single one that the cameras flash flushed out. If that is a field repair then the value of the one beneath should be same as top?

    resistance.jpg

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    Default Haas tip of the day

    Quote Originally Posted by Hoss710 View Post
    tip of the day for ya.if your looking for a easy way to send the toolchanger back home...
    Ok, I tried that but tool changer didn't seem to respond. ...probably because it is still sitting in pieces on my workbench.

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    also the top of that same resistor ( single 1) looks like it's been hot as well. I'd reflow both solider joints.

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    for some reason my last post disappeared when I went to make a correction from spell check. I'll re post it in a bit

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    the double resistors from factory are total normal. I'd re soldier the single resistor as the joints look cold or have had heat in them thru the resistor.


    when you go to diagnostics , look for discrete inputs. tc in is tool changer in towards the spindle. tc out is tool changer out of the way of the spindle and sitting far left at home. most cases the tc out the 1 will stay lite for a half a second longer than when the tool changer started heading towards the spindle. you really have to pay attention to see it . is it only takes a half a second to stop the tool changer and throw a alarm. ( my vf1 was doing this today. after lubricating it , still had the same issues. will replace the switch tomorrow)

    as far as the resting I posted earlier. only use the letter keyboard bottom center. do not use the jog key board section to the middle left for jogging the axis. it doesn't recognize them during this procedure.

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    just noticed a dark spot around the R3 markings. might want to give that a closer look to. all the current for tool changer in and out. as well as turret rotation go through the 2 groups of the white resistors.

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    Default Haas Shuttle Motor Problems & Repair

    Hoss710: when you go to diagnostics , look for discrete inputs. tc in is tool changer in towards the spindle. tc out is tool changer out of the way of the spindle and sitting far left at home. most cases the tc out the 1 will stay lite for a half a second longer than when the tool changer started heading towards the spindle. you really have to pay attention to see it . is it only takes a half a second to stop the tool changer and throw a alarm.
    My toolchanger is currently off the machine. I solved the alarming out problem a week or so ago by disassembling, cleaning and re-assembling the gearmotor and putting new brushes in. The motion improved a little bit. I extended the fault time to accomodate.

    Right now I've got only the gearmotor and clutch arm mounted in to trip the switches. Currently goes thru the "auto power up" as long as I push in the carousel switch when it seeks tool 1 to fake it out and make it think it has tool 1. Looking to order a new carousel and get it all back together soon.

    Will be testing the resistors and adding solder to the resistor joints in the next day or two.

    See pic and tell me if the roller switch should be settling further into the middle area of the cam... like exactly middle (full extention) Have a feeling that is important for alignment during tool change. Speculating that the (slow) speed of my gearmotor may be stopping it short preventing full extention.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img_20191101_130234125.jpg  

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    Default Resistor values

    I'm reading 3.8 in the resistor stack and 5.5 on the single.
    ....on a Home Depot meter.

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    The arm on my VF-1 does not move to the middle of the switch, about as far as yours. The slot that the pin fits in is almost vertical so a little more movement of the arm will have little effect on the end position of the carousel.
    On the other end of the throw (into the spindle), there are bolts inside the arm holding the carousel to the main column that are loosened and the whole mounting is slid sideways (X direction) to position the tool-spindle alignment. Another set of bolts are for moving the carousel in the Y direction. Changing the carousel in switch position can mess up the tool-spindle alignment.
    They typically double up resistors to double the wattage and halve the resistance (higher wattage = more $).
    If you reverse the leads on the resistor you probably will get a different reading due to other components in the circuit. You can only accurately measure the resistance by disconnecting on lead of the resistor.

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    That is a lot of good info. Thank you!
    ...with that said could you get a quick reading on your resistors so we can compare what we do have? Even with both of our resistors soldered in place on our boards I might get an idea if it is in the ballpark anyway. Trying to live by the rule of not fixing something that ain't broke. Failing miserably at that by the way.


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