Light oil and grease recommendation?

I got my new VF2ss commissioned last week. I keep reading about light oil for taper of the spindle, with so much different types of oil makes up now, curious what other people are using.

hopefully it's something can pick up locally. I watch the Hass videos, assume they are using this regualar WD-40 or Silicone Lubricant Spray | WD-40 Water Resistant Silicone Lubricant | WD-40


Grease for the pull studs, I don't like to assume but have a feeling any moly synthetic grease will work.

I have seen people both use wd40 and spray white lithium grease.

Hoss710 said:

I have seen people both use wd40 and spray white lithium grease.

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I would think lithium grease would be a no go? But I don't know, figure you want the taper to be kept clean as possible.

actually the 1800+ pounds of clamping force is more than enough to displace the grease. just telling you what haas use to recommend.

all of my new Haas machines came with a lot of there red grease up in the spindle from the factory ,,, I just ordered some red grease for the pull studs and extra purple for the ways and spindle oil ,,, Better to have it on hand than be down in a year or two whating for it to ship to you ,,, I put a little on a pull stud about once a week and even by the end of the week all the studs have a little on them .. as for the tapers I have found there is enough oil in the coolant to keep them happy ..

BGL said:

I use these items; 16oz tub of Lucas Red "N" Tacky from your local auto parts store. 3in1 oil. WD-40 in gallon quantity w/pump spray bottle. Big tub of Vaseline - yes Vaseline, if you must ask; Externally is the answer, a healthy amount applied to hands before working and after hand washing keeps tools from rusting, skin from dermatitis.

Bear in mind it is my personal machine and I am maintenance ODC.

My end of day ritual - After completely removing parts and housing and blowing off chips. I place a rag on table below spindle, spray WD-40 up into taper. Hold rag up to opening and hold tool release button for ten to thirty seconds. Thoroughly wipe inside of taper with a clean dry rag. Take a tool and clean with WD and wipe dry. Place a dab of Red N Tacky on pull stud, hand install tool while cycle a few times while holding tool in place.

IMPORTANT, WD-40 will over time dry to a tacky film. It is no good for a lubricant as in micrometers or dial indicators - they will stick! It is excellent for end of day mist on tools, vice, table and way covers - you must wipe off.

If I am not returning next day or so I remove all tools from carousel, I have a small tub I place the tool holder in, spray the tool down and into the collet edge. Wipe, air blast wipe, place in rack. I have been doing this for a few years now. Tool holders look great, tool release problems are gone. Vice and table look pretty.

When changing tools I assemble and put a drop or two 3in1 on collet thread before tightening.

Not a sermon, just advice.

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I'm to the owner and operator of my machine. Like you I'm OCD about keeping my machine care for and why I posted this "silly question". Thank you for the well wrote explaintion of your way. I only question the WD-40 spray on the way covers, vise, table at the end of the day. If you are using flood why not just let there be thin layer of coolant to sit on those areas, since they have oil? I use Qualichem 251c and keep it at 9-10%

Djstorm100 said:

I'm to the owner and operator of my machine. Like you I'm OCD about keeping my machine care for and why I posted this "silly question". Thank you for the well wrote explaintion of your way. I only question the WD-40 spray on the way covers, vise, table at the end of the day. If you are using flood why not just let there be thin layer of coolant to sit on those areas, since they have oil? I use Qualichem 251c and keep it at 9-10%

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Thank you for the compliment. My vintage machine, 1993 VF-0 has plain carbon steel way covers, marginal drain and plastic housing. I keep a fairly rich coolant myself but there always seems to be a puddle of coolant in the pan for long periods. It's a synthetic, I forget the brand, NEVER has turned rancid. In summer temps of 70 to 80F with AC set to 78F this is no problem as that temp setting really just keeps humidity low. Winter with temps in the fifties and lower when not in the shop [heat pumps suck] it seems the water evaporates from the coolant and condenses on the cold steel leaving rust, coolant residue in the pan. I keep the doors open thinking that would help but no. I don't claim it's a good idea, quick and simple works for me. It was especially noticeable on the tool tapers where they are enclosed in the umbrella, that's why I remove them if I will not be back to it next day. Like taking a stone to my table, cleaning my tapers with scotchbrite is abhorrent to me. Fine steel wool only, a stone to the table only if damaged but a rubber pad prevents that when there is possibility of dropping a tool or fixture. Perhaps it's worth looking into a different coolant, although I have seen this as normal on every machine. Perhaps it's only because I am the only one that notices.

There are others like it but this one is MINE.

I like to get my finger up in the spindle and smear some way oil in there, I tend to use lubriplate as it's handy...put it on the pull stud and both of the moving fingers on the tool change arm.