New LED lights in old VF2?
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  1. #1
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    Default New LED lights in old VF2?

    I've been working on getting a '93 VF2 back up and running, and it needs a new work light. Instead of replacing the stock 12V 60W halogen, I thought I'd be slick and get some new IP66 LED flood lights from Amazon. Unfortunately, these are 120V 30W (x 2). AFAIK, new Haas LEDs run at 120V

    I realize I can probably open up the LED housings and poke around at the electronics, but my guess is that it's all switch mode electronics which won't easily bend to my will.

    When looking at the Power Distribution Board on the CNC, there's very clearly a spot where a transformer changes 120V to 12V before sending power to the lights. Has anybody bypassed this with a jumper to get 120 down the circuit? Yes the fuse will have to be resized, not a problem.

    Rather than taking the easy way out and wiring this up as a separate circuit, it would be slick to hook this up to the existing electronics so things work with the door and toggle switch.

    Thoughts? Anecdotes? Blind-mad tangential rants?

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    if it were me . I'd use the 12vdc circuit to power a relay. then I'd grab my 120 from a single power line to ground. and run the 120 vac through a fuse. then yung your 120 vac through the relay. that way you don't end up burning any runs on ur boards. I have seen people do what you are doing. but this was before LED's were popular. in a years time they are replacing the power distribution board due to cooked solider runs. I have done this in the past with no issues.

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    Work lights inside the machine, or the high intensity ones over the doors? If inside the machine that *used* to use the old incandescents, just get an led light that screws into the light socket. If the outer work lights.. dunno

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    just get an LED spotlight made to plug into a cigarette lighter. 12vdc all ready to go

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    Just get LED light bars for off road vehicles, cheaper than 120V and rated IP68. I had some IP66 rated lights and they failed due to coolant getting inside, no problems with my IP68s. I had the opposite wiring issue, the newer mills like mine are 120V lights so I had to run a relay and transformer to get DC voltage.

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    I got one of these and works fine. Be sure to buy a natural white LED light and not a warm white one. The warm white ones are too yellowish and does not work well to see what you are doing.


    US Stock-2pcs/pack 30Watt 12-24VDC LED Flood Light (Natural White) IP65 6927052944226 | eBay

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    Quote Originally Posted by machineit2 View Post
    I got one of these and works fine. Be sure to buy a natural white LED light and not a warm white one. The warm white ones are too yellowish and does not work well to see what you are doing.


    US Stock-2pcs/pack 30Watt 12-24VDC LED Flood Light (Natural White) IP65 6927052944226 | eBay
    I used the 6000K lights and was able to find some that had a strip of blacklight leds that increase the depth of color and as an added bonus helps me monitor spindle lube cause I run Molygen which glows florescent green under black light. Mounted them vertical in the front corners of the machine instead of above, almost need sunglasses now, lol

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    What i did was mount an exterior flood light inside the cabinet. To that I ran a 110VAC line with an external switch. I had thought about pulling juice from the machine, but then KISS, Keep It Simple Stupid, not the group, came to mind. No need to mess with machine wiring to install a light.

    Now if it was today and I still had the old 12volt lights I'd buy 12 volt Marine LED Spreader lights. More light then you'll ever need at a fraction of the juice, heavy duty while being 95% original.

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    I posted it a couple years ago when rebuilding my VF-1. The power to the original light is powered by a 10 VAC transformer. I used a diode bridge to convert to DC inside the cabinet. I used two 12VDC auto LED flood lights in the front upper corners. Lighting from both sides is so much better.

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    An electronics friend gave me a thru hole bridge rectifier. I don't recall the specifics, basically a 3/4 x 3/8" square with a hole thru the center. I mounted to the inside of the cabinet near where the leads pass thru to the light. I cut and spliced, solderded and mounted. The toggle switch undisturbed and still in circuit. I mounted a pair of lights similar to these in each corner with some trick automotive wire and waterproof connectors my friend had. One slight annoyance, slight strobe effect can make you think spindle is in reverse sometimes. I understand its a simple fix with a capacitor, I just got used to it.

    Off-Road LED Work Light/LED Driving Light - 5" Square - 10W - 1000 Lumens | Super Bright LEDs

    Has served very well for over five years now.

    kimg0211.jpg3088.jpg

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    What vise is that?
    Would you recommend it?

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    It's a Glacern GPV-615R and no I would not recommend it, not knocking it. It is adequate but a lesson in frugal.

    These are dated pictures; It has been replaced with new Kurt DX 6, two of them actually. The difference in quality and size is subtle but noticeable once working with it. For one the Kurt casting is notably harder. Purchased new the GPV-615R seems to be 15/16 scale of the Kurt, yes I know it is reverse but even the clamping thread is smaller, fit to the 'nut' and bushing loose, the cross section all over is thinner.

    Notice the four clamps to the table, this increased my clamping force. I had some smooth stainless steel parts parts barely gripped that were creeping out of the vice, repositioning the hold downs this way solved it. Not scientific evidence of distortion but...

    Don't do what I did and go cheep. I know my grandson will be able to hand the Kurt down to his son. Put the difference toward quality and you will never go wrong.

    [ We now return to our regular program ]

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    Thanks, you only confirmed my thinking. I have a nice D688 that I got only a couple of years ago and was hoping to get two more so there would be 3 on the Haas. But seems like Everytime I buy something it becomes extinct. RIP the D688 vises from Kurt.

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    Did I say DX 6, I did. Sorry, I ment D688 - Yes, very happy with them, no you cannot have them.
    Sorry.
    I did just see one on Ebay, a bit abused but that builds character.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BGL View Post
    Did I say DX 6, I did. Sorry, I ment D688 - Yes, very happy with them, no you cannot have them.
    Sorry.
    I did just see one on Ebay, a bit abused but that builds character.

    They hold their value really well. And expensive to ship.
    Missed out on 2 really nice D688s for $250 for the pair. Was on OfferUp in Chicago. Couldn't convince that guy to ship them to me. Liked to have cried.

    Hard to beat Amazons price and with free shipping though. Prolly end up getting 3 DX6 vises.

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    You had a lot more luck with a new D688 than I did. A little over a year old using Extreme Cut water based coolant in a home shop it lock up solid. Cutting the nut all the way down to the screw on top and sides did not free it. Kurt said I could buy a new nut and screw. Thanks.
    The old vice that came with the mill that was covered in oil and steel chips is still working fine.

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    I'm a bit OCD with my vices [sounds like an opening line to a joke]
    Often disassemble moving jaw, clean and lube.


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