Old VF Vector/Spindle Drive to Motor drive ohm checks. (follow up thread) - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    Thanks Gents,
    No Delta-Wye that I can tell or have found. She's belt drive 7.5K,
    Mr. Hoss710... I had posted you a PM message. Wondered if you've seen that?

    Monday blah-
    Ya know.. I just do not know how folks buy a used machine, plunk it level and start making parts..... After 2 years, this thing just won't stay running more than a few days or weeks. It's constantly something. If we can solve this last part... I'm really hopeful that we'll be on our way.

    Waiting on parts to arrive!

  2. #22
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    some early machines in 98 had both gearbox and delta/wye. they didn't make a ton of them. but they were their own animal. that's why I asked.

  3. Likes wheelieking71 liked this post
  4. #23
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    no I hadn't seen a PM. not sure how to find it on this forum. but I'll dig around for it.

  5. #24
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    Update and parts lists....

    Thread update (if you read all of this- We blew the Spindle Vector Drive, sent it out... came back, blew again in 5 hours. Circuit area isolated. Checked and Megged motor. Checked regen resistors. Check check checks. We'll see soon when power is applied.

    high level review:
    The top-board had 2 failed Zener's and several bad Tantalum caps. (gee... sound familiar... see my post on C41 for CPU's boards and the 'gggggggg' or 'mmmmmmm' or whatever on display).

    So- I ripped out all the zeners, and all the tantalum near J9 thru J13. See images. The parts to replace are listed below. BUT.. you need to know what your doing and have a really steady hand and a great soldering iron. :-) It's a longer story than I can go into here, but the Zeners are now Axial's and placed off the board a bit to help w/ heat. The tantalums were replaced w/ polar Electrolytic. (which was already done on 2 of the sections I repaired... but they left the other 4 original.. which is where the zener diode and tantalum failed? I mean.. your in there.. $1000 to repair the thing- just replace em' from J9 to J13 for pete sakes. ((you may know who you are)). I did attempt to research & spec original or fully equivalent replacements for every part on here. This is DIY and at-your-own risk, but again, I did spec and cross every part and tolerance I could. I'll be going for power up soon... I don't advise working on your top board... but if your like me and just don't want to spend $1,300 for repair/exchange or 6,000 from Haas.... Then ya dive in start someplace.

    In summary: I've replaced the lower end IGBT's, 3 phase rectifier, the big blue caps, The fans, and regen IGBT. And the top J9- J13 zeners and caps. The 2nd order was for other parts in case something else fails. May as well.. I'm into this for the haul.

    sourcing:
    The LOWER end components. The IGBT's and IGBT drivers (M57962L or M57962L-01R-01) were sourced from ebay or Amazon. the large snubber caps, are on the 1st digikey list below. The 3 phase reciter(SANREX DF150BA80) was also from Amazon. For the actual Mitsubishi or POwerEx IGBT's You'll have no issues finding them presently but you will need to wait weeks to get from Hong-Kong or China. (and hope they are not pirate copies?? So use your judgement). I found my IGBTs in the US... These are the CM150DY-12H IGBTs. 3 of them. The big white box PMB caps screw onto those. Maybe someone can post a spec'd replacement for the Mitsubishi IGBT's? The fans are on parts list 1 also from digi-key. 30CFM.. and same OEM/PN as originals. The large blue caps.... they are on the 1st digi-key parts list. The IGBT for the regen Assy- is on the digi-key list ...

    At this point... after 2 years of a used Haas that's alway's having a power , CPU, or Semi-conductor issues.. I mean, come'on hoping! ! !
    :-)

    Also--- order some thermal paste. you need it for the IGBT's and rectifier.

    The Soldering iron. a new toy plug since this thing is a 45+ on a scale of 1 to 10. It's been on hackaday a few times and the thing is out of this world for this type of work. Google TS100 soldering iron. (I also posted details in the Fabrication forum). it''s $60 for a kit and a tip. DO the GitHub freeware upgrade. Much better tweaks. google github ts100 upgrade. YT vids on how too upgrade. Takes literally 3mins.



    My first order:
    Part Number Manufacturer Part Number Description
    1572-1459-ND 474PMB122KSP2 CAP FILM 0.47UF 1.2KVDC CHAS MT
    1053-1086-ND OA80AP-22-1WB FAN AXIAL 80X38MM 230VAC WIRE
    BZX85B9V1-TRGICT-ND BZX85B9V1-TR DIODE ZENER 9.1V 1.3W DO41
    493-14496-ND UKL1V470KPDANA CAP ALUM 47UF 10% 35V RADIAL
    US1J-FDICT-ND US1J-13-F DIODE GEN PURP 600V 1A SMA
    565-3320-ND E36D451LPN222TDA5M CAP ALUM 2200UF 450V SCREW
    IXGN72N60A3-ND IXGN72N60A3 IGBT MOD 600V 160A 360W SOT227B

    2nd order- just more top board items. (known HP7800A item too).
    Part Number Manufacturer Part Number Description
    516-2997-1-ND HCPL-7800A-500E IC OPAMP ISOLATION 1 CIRC 8DIPGW
    4N35SM-ND 4N35SM OPTOISO 4.17KV TRANS W/BASE 6SMD
    296-1388-1-ND LM311DR IC DIFF COMP STROBE 8-SOIC
    296-18454-1-ND LM339APWR IC QUAD DIFF COMPARATOR 14-TSSOP
    296-46105-1-ND LF411CDR IC OPAMP JFET 1 CIRCUIT 8SOIC
    LM431CIM/NOPB-ND LM431CIM/NOPB IC VREF SHUNT -0.6/+0.4% 8SOIC
    732-8848-1-ND 8.60021E+11 CAP ALUM 0.22UF 20% 50V RADIAL
    H11G2SR2MCT-ND H11G2SR2M OPTOISO 4.17KV DARL W/BASE 6SMD
    REF01CESA+-ND REF01CESA+ IC VREF SERIES 1% 8SOIC
    Last edited by countryguy; 02-05-2020 at 05:30 AM.

  6. #25
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    HEy... btw. HOW SHOULD I POWER UP TEST THIS THING? Can I leave the Motor PS /DC hookups off? And/Or leave the spindle wires off for a power-up test? I have the Haas Vector drive test docs... but not sure what I can hook up and what I can leave off.

    Thinking I'll hook up the spindle, Hook up 1 of the first motor drives only- remove the jumper that pushed the voltage over all drives? OR can I leave them all off for a first test of the 380VDC.

  7. #26
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    keeping this going for my notes and future reader endeavors...
    Found:
    a) Busted ground line from home 240 single phase side to RPC unit. Back to some basic checks since everything else seems fine (thread above). Break found by simple Ohm metered tween panel box grn.

    So... had a floating ground RPC unit probably since summer and a floating Haas Gnd essentially. but does it really matter? Have to read up on this one.

    b) noticed the Xfomer inputs were on the second from end. (our summer setting) How I missed that I am stumped. The kid thinks I asked him to move em a few months back? Which left the L2 RPC line, rather high on that L2 220-240 input when sitting idle.

    c) The RPC wild-leg sits at V255/256 when at idle. Thats on the middle hookup L2. Under loading it settles right inline w/ the 2 phase sides.


    Add it all up: a,b,c -Leaving the Vector assy to have a) possible issue w/ GND isolation. (stray things can happen).
    b) also Leaving the input Xformer on a setting too low for the wild-leg (read a post from someone it can be a problem?
    c) which let something marginal on a OEM Original 1998 spindle assy output go pop again!

    Anywho.... Who knows. We're close and thats good. That's my story for now. I'm ready to install the thing and press the dam button tomorrow. Thermal Cam also ready. hehe... toys!

    Ohhh- For getting inside this Vector drive and actually doing some troubleshooting if needed: I did recall from my old old days, a scope high voltage isolation probe. So... I sent for one from Amazon. ( HV DC and AC stages and god knows how many grounds inside this thing. Defibrillator ... or DNR. Hmmmmmm (boom potential).

    Later and TGIF!
    GC.

  8. #27
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    I just found the factory voltage check points of the vector drive. along with a ton of other factory information I forgot I had lol. read your PM I sent you.

  9. #28
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    The really good news is that our Vector unit rebuild was a success so far. Ran the spindle for about an hour. The air out the top of the fans was nice and cool the entire time- But technically little spindle load. 500 rpm, 1500 rpm and 2K.

    Shes a new Vector unit w/ a whole new lower end. Burn in time. . . Kids on his way up this week.

    Some tools and tips if your in the same boat... and want to give this a try -
    If you have the older 15/20 there is a Schematic online.
    İndir

    If you need to get in there w/ an O-Scope you may need to review this vid on how NOT to blow up your scope or yourself.
    YouTube

    and a differential isolating oScope probe: (you tube how to use if required).
    https://www.amazon.com/Micsig-DP1001...s%2C170&sr=8-4




    For me later... (from a web find on that other site! ).

    Personally I would remove the drive from the machine, open it up, dissasemble it enough to access the driver card while leaving it attached to the igbt's, power it up, and inject pulses into the drivers opto input and monitor the IGBT's gate leads with a scope to check out the driver circuitry.

    H
    Last edited by countryguy; 02-09-2020 at 06:30 PM.


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