Opening a Haas spindle core from 2013 mini mill

axisprime · Oct 11, 2020

Anyone know how to open up the spindle core from a 2013, belt driven, Haas mini mill 2? I made a pin wrench to remove the brass piece but can't seem to get it to budge. Might need to make a more rigid pin wrench I'm assuming. If any one has done this or knows how to please let me know. Thank you

Milland · Oct 11, 2020

This video may help, or at least give you someone you can try to contact to see how he dealt with that aspect: Haas Spindle Bearing Replacement Part1 - YouTube

When you do come up with an answer, please add that info to your post - always good to have a record of what works (and for that matter, what doesn't).

axisprime · Oct 11, 2020

Video of the Haas mini mill 2 being delivered. Nothing to do with the topic but thought I'd post a link to vid for anyone curious what I'm working with. Haas mini mill 2 delivery into home garage - YouTube

axisprime · Oct 11, 2020

Thanks for the reply. I saw that video many times but he doesn't actually show how he took it all apart. He does give some good info that will definitely help with taking it apart by removing the shrink fit collar and some other tips. Sadly, I'm not to that point yet. I will fully document everything if I manage to take it apart.

evotechcorp · Oct 11, 2020

Recently rebuilt my mini mill spindle, mine was a little bit different than yours but probably comes apart the same way... You'll have to put the spindle in a hydraulic press and slightly depress the draw bar to take the pressure off the threaded collar. If you're tearing it down any further than just maintaining the draw bar you'll need an induction heater to remove the pulley as well as to loosen the bearing retaining collar. everything beyond the draw bar is balanced and preloaded so unless you're familiar with the required processes I wouldn't recommend getting into it.

evotechcorp · Oct 11, 2020

I also forgot to mention not to put pressure on the dogs when you put it in the press, use an old tool holder in the spindle with the pull stud removed and use that as a sacrificial support

g-coder05 · Oct 11, 2020

Did anyone else catch in that video when the guy said the part broke because it was fatigued and since he couldn't buy one he would just rotate it and drill new holes? Then claims it is the same thing any other shop owner would do! Now you have a out of balance, fatigued and broken piece of steel spinning at 12k RPM. That part shouldn’t take more than half a day to reverse engineer and remake.

And then says 1/2-20 is a "non standard funky thread so it had to be thread milled"!

axisprime · Oct 11, 2020

evotechcorp said:
Recently rebuilt my mini mill spindle, mine was a little bit different than yours but probably comes apart the same way... You'll have to put the spindle in a hydraulic press and slightly depress the draw bar to take the pressure off the threaded collar. If you're tearing it down any further than just maintaining the draw bar you'll need an induction heater to remove the pulley as well as to loosen the bearing retaining collar. everything beyond the draw bar is balanced and preloaded so unless you're familiar with the required processes I wouldn't recommend getting into it.

Thanks for the info. Will try this and report back.

Milland · Oct 11, 2020

I wonder how many varieties of "basic" spindle cartridge Haas has made. I've got an older (early 90's?) cartridge sitting on the bench that doesn't have the brass insert, and with a smaller bore in the toothed pulley.

It also came with a protective molded red plastic cap for the taper and drive keys, I've never seen a similar one elsewhere.

axisprime · Oct 13, 2020

evotechcorp said:
Recently rebuilt my mini mill spindle, mine was a little bit different than yours but probably comes apart the same way... You'll have to put the spindle in a hydraulic press and slightly depress the draw bar to take the pressure off the threaded collar. If you're tearing it down any further than just maintaining the draw bar you'll need an induction heater to remove the pulley as well as to loosen the bearing retaining collar. everything beyond the draw bar is balanced and preloaded so unless you're familiar with the required processes I wouldn't recommend getting into it.

Followed your advice and used my bridgeport to press down on the draw bar and was able to crack the brass insert loose. Lowered and raised the knee to depress the draw bar. Draw bar is in excellent condition. Anyone attempting this needs to be careful the 5 ball bearings that hold the pull stud don't fall out. One fell out but was found in the paper towel in my vise. Next step is to get an induction heater to remove the pulley. Trying to get to the bearings. Anybody have any advice with heating up the pulley to remove?

axisprime · Oct 13, 2020

evotechcorp · Oct 14, 2020

Since you're replacing the bearings anyway you could try hitting it with a rosebud instead of an induction heater, I only used an induction heater because I didn't know if there were any internal components that would be affected by heat. My bearings came from precision bearings, I think they were about $1400. They will need the numbers off your old bearings to get the proper preload grind for your new set. When you reassemble don't use rags, buy lab grade wiping cloths and do it in the cleanest environment you can find cause 1 piece of lint can wipe out the new bearings or drastically reduce the service life

axisprime · Oct 19, 2020

evotechcorp said:
Since you're replacing the bearings anyway you could try hitting it with a rosebud instead of an induction heater, I only used an induction heater because I didn't know if there were any internal components that would be affected by heat. My bearings came from precision bearings, I think they were about $1400. They will need the numbers off your old bearings to get the proper preload grind for your new set. When you reassemble don't use rags, buy lab grade wiping cloths and do it in the cleanest environment you can find cause 1 piece of lint can wipe out the new bearings or drastically reduce the service life

Thanks for the tips. When you applied heat to the pulley gear how did you remove it? What was used to assist in removal? I used a gear puller (3 claw not wedge type). You think that would do the trick if I heated it up with the rose bud(didn't work with my whack a$$ portable induction heater)? I actually used a 1000w induction heater but it has a 50% duty cycle and only last 2 minutes at a time. Great for locked bolts but the gear pulley definitely doesn't get hot enough.

evotechcorp · Oct 20, 2020

A heavy duty 3 jaw should do the trick, I actually used a large bearing puller when I did mine

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