power-off table pushing tests in X. should it move? Tens backlash w/ power-on - Page 2
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  1. #21
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    So before I order up the screw/Nut set I have been reading about the rails and trucks. If there is some way to test those? Threads here about checking and tightening all the bolts? Rails getting sloppy.. I mean, how do the kid and I get comfort around the X rails before I dump 4K into the screw and Nut.

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    With rails you can try "twist" and lift" tests. Basically anything that allows a rotation or lift of the table relative to its mating section indicates wear of the trucks and/or rails, and is independent of ballscrew wear.

    Keep in mind that relative movement should be really small unless wear was quite excessive.

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    Thanks, but as the electronics guy here... could you translate in how I get the kid to test for that.... Indicate off the edge of the table, and try to somehow twist? (how) or lift (with a long bar?) Happy to do any test described. I really think this thing has some issues and it may not be all screw related?

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    It's a little tricky to describe in text, but I'd look around the table and "stack" of X and Y components, and try to figure out how to leverage them (say, with some bar stock clamped to the table to give you extra force application), then look for robust components you can check for relative movement.

    You have to separate linear axis travel from "truck" movement" (like by temporarily locking the ballscrews), and it's likely a lot easier with the way covers off. Use tenths indicators on mag bases for readings, more is better. When you lever the table using the bar stock, see where relative non-axial movement is coming from. If you get excessive numbers (more than a couple tenths), see if you can further isolate where it's coming from by repositioning the indicators.

    Once you start playing with it, I suspect it'll become more clear what you're aiming for.

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    It is odd that it sort of sudden change. The axis rails don't just one day decide to fail.

    I suggest you do the backlash check as described in the service manual. Just to eliminate the possibility.
    Fairly easy, nothing to disassemble unless its out of spec. In that case you may have discovered the problem.
    Remote as it is it may be simply something missed and came loose.
    I have done enough dumb to myself, I would do this first! My first time rebuilding the thrust bearing set I did not
    blue Loctite the bolt on the drive coupling - yes, yes you do.


    My translation of what Milland is saying...
    Indicator Mag base on base casting to check Y axis.
    Indicator point square to top and then side.

    Indicator Mag base on Y axis casting to check X axis.
    Indicator point square to top and then side.

    Suggest you check six points on each, end/middle/end.

    I once drove myself to madness trying to chase a finish issue. Turned out to be mislabeled stock. Looked the same, tasted the same, was not same temper.

    CSS as a smart guy I know says, Check Stupid Stuff!

    Good luck!

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  8. #26
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    We'll get in there and rock and roll it around. Understood.
    Agreed on the blue lock-tight! We learned that also. The backlash test for X,Y, and Z, is w/i a few tens. And this is tested via the published docs. both the power and push lash tests. That's part of my head-scratch, There is hardly any. We have been chatting about pre-load on the X nut... Anyway, I am going to make him pull the Z covering skins also. we have not checked the trust bearings on Z before. The goal being so new and only 1 haas with nothing to compare too is just ask for insight or past testing methodologies.

    We have a solid day of stepping and standing on the table and crawling under edges and the gutters. I am so tired of taking the way covers off this thing. ouuuyyyyyy :-)

    I'll get some pics in here and maybe a vid or two as we learn. roll this into a learning by doing thread.



    Quote Originally Posted by BGL View Post

    It is odd that it sort of sudden change. The axis rails don't just one day decide to fail.

    I suggest you do the backlash check as described in the service manual. Just to eliminate the possibility.
    Fairly easy, nothing to disassemble unless its out of spec. In that case you may have discovered the problem.
    Remote as it is it may be simply something missed and came loose.
    I have done enough dumb to myself, I would do this first! My first time rebuilding the thrust bearing set I did not
    blue Loctite the bolt on the drive coupling - yes, yes you do.


    My translation of what Milland is saying...
    Indicator Mag base on base casting to check Y axis.
    Indicator point square to top and then side.

    Indicator Mag base on Y axis casting to check X axis.
    Indicator point square to top and then side.

    Suggest you check six points on each, end/middle/end.

    I once drove myself to madness trying to chase a finish issue. Turned out to be mislabeled stock. Looked the same, tasted the same, was not same temper.

    CSS as a smart guy I know says, Check Stupid Stuff!

    Good luck!


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