Recommended Phase Perfect for a Super Mini Mill 2?

miks · Jan 23, 2019

Hi all. I'm about to pull trigger on a new-to-me, 2010 Super Mini Mill 2 with SMTC. This machine is rated at "15hp" but I gather that number may be inflated, and I think how hard you run the machine will affect the electrical requirement. I will be cutting mostly plastic and aluminum and this is for prototyping, not production, so even if we cut some steel it would be a one-off that doesn't need to be done as fast as possible.

I only have single phase power so I'm looking at getting a Phase Perfect to run it. My question is - which model Phase Perfect? Would the 10hp unit (PT330) suffice or should I pony up for the 20hp (PT355)? I have seen a thread or two where people are using Phase Perfect converters to run a mini mill, but I wanted to see if there were any SMM2 users who might be able to confirm from actual use which unit would be best. The Phase Perfect will only be powering this mill, no other equipment. Thanks for any info or recommendations.

BrickTactical · Jan 24, 2019

I run a brand new HAAS DM2, rated for 17 amps, I use the Phase Perfect that is capable for 70 amps. Then again, I'm running an injection molding machine at the same time as well.

If you are thinking you will be adding more machines in the future I highly suggest you get something that is overkill now and when you need it you have it ready to go.

Good luck with the mill!

D.D.Machine · Jan 24, 2019

I run vf2 and vf4 mills off of 15hp rotary converters ,,, All are running off 60 amp 220V breakers. After reading up on phase perfect converters I well stick to rotary's. Been using them for more than 25 years and had ZERO down time.

miks · Jan 24, 2019

BrickTactical - thanks for the info and good to know. I think the DM2 is particularly demanding because of the high rapids. You make a good point about getting something I can "grow into" so I'll consider it.

miks · Jan 24, 2019

DD Machine - right on. I'm open to whatever works. I guess I've just seen numerous posts where people rave about the Phase Perfect units, but clearly the rotaries work well too. Thanks for your input.

D.D.Machine · Jan 25, 2019

The "HUGE" up side with simple rotaries is just how simple they are ,, I have 7 of them that I run a lot and have never had a single repair on them ,, but if I ever do need to fix them its nothing I could not to with a $10 meter and a order from McMaster Carr ...
guys talk about how they make noise ,,, the coolant pumps on my mills make more noise .
yes they do put out a little heat but even with 5 running in one corner of the shop I don`t notice anything ....

friesen · Jan 26, 2019

I run a vf2 with vector drive on pt330. The pp can supply a decent surge for 4 seconds, I think 100+ amps, see datasheet.

miks · Jan 27, 2019

friesen said:
I run a vf2 with vector drive on pt330. The pp can supply a decent surge for 4 seconds, I think 100+ amps, see datasheet.

Friesen - good to know. I think I'm going to go ahead with the PT330 - seems like it will be more than enough for the SMM2 and the prototyping I'm doing.

DethloffMfg · Jan 28, 2019

The Haas website has the actual horsepower hidden deep down one of their lists, I believe it’s the installation requirements page under the machine, hidden towards the bottom. This is where they actually say the VF-2 is 10hp if I’m remembering right. You can also look on this same list and look at the correct breaker size.

I run my Speedio on a PT-330 and 40 amp single phase breaker. I haven’t maxed out this machine on power draw, it is very efficient, but it is rated as 9hp constant, 13hp for 30min and 19hp for 10 seconds (the rating Haas uses....)

Don’t think you’re going to outrun a 10hp Phase Perfect with a MiniMill variant. I have a 3-sided box around the PP to quiet it down but as soon as the machine is on and the Z motor fan spins up I cannot hear the PP.

DethloffMfg · Jan 28, 2019

I just found your machines power under Installation Guide. It is 5hp continuous. Full load amps if 40 on 220v. Don’t need much of a phase converter to do that.

Dirtworks5 · Feb 1, 2019

New to the forum here. I was wandering how you fellows are getting your CNC mills to run with Rotary converters? I have such a large spread in volts that my mill overheats after a short time.
Thanks,
Vern

machineit2 · Feb 2, 2019

Sounds like you have yours miss-wired or the mill has a problem. I have run off of PC's for nearly 20 years without issue. What are you voltages and how do have them wired to the mill?

Mike

Dirtworks5 · Feb 2, 2019

Mike,
I have 248, 255, and 271 are my three voltages crossed to one another. I have 123, 124, and 242 when going to ground.

DethloffMfg · Feb 2, 2019

Dirtworks5 said:
Mike,
I have 248, 255, and 271 are my three voltages crossed to one another. I have 123, 124, and 242 when going to ground.

Do you have a phase converter that is specifically designed for CNC's? I've tested my Phase Perfect with three voltage levels, changed by using buck transformers
- 245V
- 223V
- 200V

All three times the legs were within 2-3V of each other on the output.

Dirtworks5 · Feb 2, 2019

I have an older roto phase 20 hp rotary. I ordered a new phase perfect but was curious how to make the rotary work. It will be no longer needed once i get the PP.

machineit2 · Feb 2, 2019

Dirt,

It should work with that voltage. What is overhearing? Hook the two lower voltage lines to L1 and L3 and the higher one to L2. Connect taps to the lower voltage for the lower ones.

Mike

miks · Feb 3, 2019

DethloffMfg said:
I just found your machines power under Installation Guide. It is 5hp continuous. Full load amps if 40 on 220v. Don’t need much of a phase converter to do that.

Hi DethloffMfg - thanks for that info! That's helpful. You and others have confirmed that I should be fine with the PT-330 so that's what I'm going to do.

One question - I've watched a few videos of the PT-330 at it does seems to have a high-pitched whine (some describe it as similar to an air leak hiss). Have you found it bothersome (I see you mentioned making a box for it). I have tinnitus and I'm thinking this high pitch noise might be a real drag, so I'm thinking of trying to stash the converter in a closet or something. LMK what you think. Is the noise noticeable without the enclosure? How bad is it? Thanks.

friesen · Feb 3, 2019

It's more of a rattly hiss. I personally wouldn't bother. I don't notice mine unless it's the only thing running.

DethloffMfg · Feb 3, 2019

miks said:
Hi DethloffMfg - thanks for that info! That's helpful. You and others have confirmed that I should be fine with the PT-330 so that's what I'm going to do.

One question - I've watched a few videos of the PT-330 at it does seems to have a high-pitched whine (some describe it as similar to an air leak hiss). Have you found it bothersome (I see you mentioned making a box for it). I have tinnitus and I'm thinking this high pitch noise might be a real drag, so I'm thinking of trying to stash the converter in a closet or something. LMK what you think. Is the noise noticeable without the enclosure? How bad is it? Thanks.

I was worried about it before mine was hooked up. I have the Phase Perfect, two buck transformers (my Japanese machine likes 200V) and a California Air Tools compressor in a wooden cabinet I made that encloses front/sides/top and leaves the back open with a 4" gap from the wall. The compressor is separated from everything else so it doesn't heat them up. Both the compressor and the phase converter are really quiet, but having the cabinet is a nice improvement, and heat has not been a concern at all.

Once I turn my machine on the fan on the spindle goes on, which also is not loud, but as soon as that fan turns on I can no longer hear the PP. I had the same concerns. As soon as things turn on, you won't hear the PP.

miks · Feb 4, 2019

friesen said:
It's more of a rattly hiss. I personally wouldn't bother. I don't notice mine unless it's the only thing running.

Good to know. Thanks!

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