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VF3 throwing a 179 code.

comp 670

Aluminum
Joined
Mar 5, 2016
I got my new to me 2001 VF3 powered up today. Seemed to take a while to "wake up" not much worked at first but as I messed with it eventually everything worked. The only issue that has not gone away is I get a 179 alarm code. It says low pressure trans oil, spindle coolant oil low, or low pressure in lines..

How do I check the trans oil and spindle coolant oil? By low pressure in lines do they mean the air lines or is there oil lines too? What type of oil does it take?

If I change the spindle speed to where it has to shift from low to high gear it gives this code about every third try. It shifts fine a few times then alarms out the third or fourth shift.

When I first powered it up it would not go to zero, The spindle just spun back and forth about a half turn trying to shift the trans. I kept trying it and it finally did it after about ten times. The more I run it the better it seems to get?

Sorry for all the newbie questions... It did not come with a manual and I tried to download one from Haas but we are WAY out in the sticks and it takes forever to download stuff. I'm going to see if I can do it at work tomorrow.
 
I think with this tranny you just add oil until it spills out the overflow tube onto the table. I use Mobil DTE 25, which has an iso 46 rating. Haas's latest datasheet wants you to use Mobil SHC 625 Transmission Oil (VMC - 4-Taper - Gearbox - Sump Style Oil Reservoir - Refill | Haas Automation(R) Resource Center), also iso 46. If you're having trouble shifting it could be a sticky solenoid due to water or other contamination of the compressed air. I replaced the unit on my 2001 VF-5 a few years ago, no issue since. Fixing this may also clear up the spindle seeking.
 
It does sound like low air pressure or could be restricted flow.

What do you have for air compressor?

You will need something like 7 SCFM @ 90psi minimum but most important for shifting and tool change is having minimum of 3/8 ID lines and fittings. No wimpy 1/4" quick connects!

Air regulator filter clean?
 
I have a 5 hp/40 gallon tank air compressor with 3/4 copper lines in the shop and then 1/2 line from the wall to the machine with no quick connects. A good high flow air dryer filter at the compressor and another one on the wall before the line goes to the machine. Shop is only 24X24 so the compressor is not far away from the machine either. I will top off the oil level and check the regulator air filter tonight.

Thanks for the help!!
 
Well then, if not the oil then I would look into the internal condition of the air lines. Previous owners, may not have been as nice as the system you have. As Milland mentioned, crud will cause slow reaction. Beauty is it may not need parts just labor taking apart, cleaning and reassembly.

Good luck!
 
The back and forth motion is the machine trying to do a gear change.
- Low Air pressure, dirty filter can be the cause, as mentioned.
- Could also be the orifice in the restricter needs to be drilled opened a few thousandths.


The 179 Alarm is the Transmission oil circulating system.

Could be low oil, as mentioned. Just pour in top flap cap and when it pours out the bottom of headstock its full as its gonna get. This is the easiest fix and I'd do first. I said pour...but it has to be a slow dribble or it gets air bound.

If you still have a problem, its time to pull off the headstock cover. On the right side up towards the top you will see a little motor, maybe 1/8hp mounted upside down to a bracket with a little black box on top. Black box is the pump. When you turn on spindle you should see oil moving in the clear line at the top in a steady flow.

If you see oil flowing...check wires at the pressure sensor

***No oil being pushed thru...chances are good the coupling between motor and pump is shot...little plastic spider that connect output of motor spline to input pump spline. EZ fix, drop pump by removing those 4 little nuts (5/16 wrench, did mine yesterday) motor drops and you'll probly see the plastic coupler all broken apart. Replace coupler (PN-49-4135) and get back to work.

If coupler is good and motor works, check the tubing for a crack. That is a vacuum hose, with pump running push and pull on hose in a few spots...you may see oil starting to pump a bit...if so, hose is cracked. Mine was easy to check...I pushed easy and saw oil flow...tried it again to make sure and hose pretty much disintegrated.

Slice to repair if you can or replace hose...the later job sucks as you have to pull motor,spindle, gearbox assemble...or as in my case..tip it over as far as permissible and change hose that connects to underside.


More often then not, its the coupler.
 
Thanks for all the help! I have the covers off, its very dirty so I'm going to spend the day cleaning it all up the best I can and check out the pump and lines. Got some oil today so I can top off the trans too.
 
Ok, it was WAY low on oil. I ended up pulling the plug and draining it all and starting fresh. Filled it up and it runs good now, no alarms. I can see good oil flow thru the lines and the little sight glass filter. I cleaned it out, very little stuff in it. I hope them running it so low on oil did not kill the gearbox? The filter magnet and the drain plug magnet had just a little very fine "fuzz" on them, nothing major so I'm hoping its ok.

I'm wondering where all the oil went? I've let it sit there and run at 1000 rpm for about 20 minutes and I see no leaks or drips?
 
***No oil being pushed thru...chances are good the coupling between motor and pump is shot...little plastic spider that connect output of motor spline to input pump spline. EZ fix, drop pump by removing those 4 little nuts (5/16 wrench, did mine yesterday) motor drops and you'll probly see the plastic coupler all broken apart. Replace coupler (PN-49-4135) and get back to work.

Do yourself a favor and pick up the motor coupler for your gearbox oil pump. It's less than $2 at McMaster 6428K51 or $10 for the Haas part 49-4135. The Haas part lasts a little longer because it's made of a different type of material, but my experience is that it will still become brittle and disintegrate just the same. This is due to all of the oil vapors that accumulate inside the head covers. Replace it now as preventative or keep it on hand for when it goes.
 
I went with the mcmaster part when the original coupler failed on our VF4. Still running strong about a year later.
 
Ok, it was WAY low on oil. I ended up pulling the plug and draining it all and starting fresh. Filled it up and it runs good now, no alarms. I can see good oil flow thru the lines and the little sight glass filter. I cleaned it out, very little stuff in it. I hope them running it so low on oil did not kill the gearbox? The filter magnet and the drain plug magnet had just a little very fine "fuzz" on them, nothing major so I'm hoping its ok.

I'm wondering where all the oil went? I've let it sit there and run at 1000 rpm for about 20 minutes and I see no leaks or drips?


Thats the best kind of fix.

Where did the oil go...small drip from fitting prior owner didn't catch for awhile, snugged up fitting, drip stopped and didn't top off. Drip from oil line. Maybe it was just filled to the point it ran without an alarm....keep an eye on it as is see a oil dripping or alarms out again needing more oil. Worry about it then.

As to worrying now...machine alarms out very quickly with a lack of oil pressure...so nobody was running it without enough oil. I'd find something else to worry about.
 
Thanks for all the advice and help. Cut our first chips last night just in manual mode. Now need to work on getting the high int light system to work. The bulbs are good but no light. Need to find where the fuse is and start troubleshooting it.

Thanks again for all the help!
 
The back and forth motion is the machine trying to do a gear change.
- Low Air pressure, dirty filter can be the cause, as mentioned.
- Could also be the orifice in the restricter needs to be drilled opened a few thousandths.


The 179 Alarm is the Transmission oil circulating system.

Could be low oil, as mentioned. Just pour in top flap cap and when it pours out the bottom of headstock its full as its gonna get. This is the easiest fix and I'd do first. I said pour...but it has to be a slow dribble or it gets air bound.

If you still have a problem, its time to pull off the headstock cover. On the right side up towards the top you will see a little motor, maybe 1/8hp mounted upside down to a bracket with a little black box on top. Black box is the pump. When you turn on spindle you should see oil moving in the clear line at the top in a steady flow.

If you see oil flowing...check wires at the pressure sensor

***No oil being pushed thru...chances are good the coupling between motor and pump is shot...little plastic spider that connect output of motor spline to input pump spline. EZ fix, drop pump by removing those 4 little nuts (5/16 wrench, did mine yesterday) motor drops and you'll probly see the plastic coupler all broken apart. Replace coupler (PN-49-4135) and get back to work.

If coupler is good and motor works, check the tubing for a crack. That is a vacuum hose, with pump running push and pull on hose in a few spots...you may see oil starting to pump a bit...if so, hose is cracked. Mine was easy to check...I pushed easy and saw oil flow...tried it again to make sure and hose pretty much disintegrated.

Slice to repair if you can or replace hose...the later job sucks as you have to pull motor,spindle, gearbox assemble...or as in my case..tip it over as far as permissible and change hose that connects to underside.


More often then not, its the coupler.

This post just saved a service call. Thanks! Pulled the side cover off and pulled the electric motor off and coupler was toast.
 
I replaced the coupler on my VF2 with the McMaster part about 5 or 6 years ago, still going strong.
 
I have a 99 VF2 and just figured out I just had a coupling issue. Mcmaster# doesn't explain much. What number did you use? I also discovered the pickup hose is fading bad. Tough to change?
Thanks
 
I know this is an old thread, but I broke the oil line digging around the head when I first got my mill. You have to pull the motor and transmission from the machine, then sepearate the transmission from the motor to be able to access the fitting leading into the transmission. I wouldn’t say a nightmare job, but not a great time. I also had access to a forklift which made things a lot easier.
 








 
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