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1440 Gap bed lathe problem to solve

Richard King

Diamond
Joined
Jul 12, 2005
Location
Cottage Grove, MN 55016
Hello all, I got a call a few days ago and finally got a chance to go look at the machine yesterday. It's a 1440 lathe that tipped over and it broke the saddle and some handles. Also the gap bed section got knocked out of tolerance. I am going to go repair it today and will let you all be detective's and figure out what is wrong. I was told the young repairman at the shop took it apart but had to shim under it to get it from wobbling when bolted down. He had to drive out the taper pins as they were bent and said he didn't put them back in. I think this will be a simple fix....lets have the detectives offer some idea's. :-)

I'll let all know what I did tonight...hopefully I can take pictures inside the plant. Rich
 
I´ll go wild west detective style and shoot off the hip lacking more time but anyway...

I´d start checking the seating / mating planes where the taper pins locks as when they got bent it is possible they drove up material. This could cause the wobbling / rocking when bolting down, OTOH sufficient torque on the bolts should deal with any rocking.
That´s where I´d head first to see how those original surfaces are contacting, with as a shim is needed they are likely not ok.
 
I´ll go wild west detective style and shoot off the hip lacking more time but anyway...

I´d start checking the seating / mating planes where the taper pins locks as when they got bent it is possible they drove up material. This could cause the wobbling / rocking when bolting down, OTOH sufficient torque on the bolts should deal with any rocking.
That´s where I´d head first to see how those original surfaces are contacting, with as a shim is needed they are likely not ok.

I would add that the lathe is probably got a twist in the bed. Fell over, sat up on base and then tried to repair without establishing initial base leveling.
 
I would add that the lathe is probably got a twist in the bed. Fell over, sat up on base and then tried to repair without establishing initial base leveling.

"Taken as stipulated" and ZERO doubt on that point. The "gap" opening just about has to be distorted now, and will probably remain so - just distorted "differently" - after the bed IS levelled back to proper alignment.

This is where Rich has to do what HE does best. The "corrections officer" role.

If it is a low-grade Asian import? Maybe just machine-gun it as it tries to escape?

Gotta get SOME satisfaction outta this life, no?

:)
 
Richard, I can't speak for your task, but I have some modest familiarity with gap bed lathes. The Asian import lathes like my Victor 16 X 40 are reasonably accurate if correctly leveled and the headstock aligned. However the gap section is ground at assembly and once removed will never go back exactly the same. Locating surfaces are only rough milled and bolts are not torqued to any duplicatable value. As these beds are hardened, running the carriage across a sharp, raised edge is only causing more problems. Good luck.
 
Richard, I can't speak for your task, but I have some modest familiarity with gap bed lathes. The Asian import lathes like my Victor 16 X 40 are reasonably accurate if correctly leveled and the headstock aligned. However the gap section is ground at assembly and once removed will never go back exactly the same. Locating surfaces are only rough milled and bolts are not torqued to any duplicatable value. As these beds are hardened, running the carriage across a sharp, raised edge is only causing more problems. Good luck.

To be fair, I doubt that has ever been their worry.

Being able to ADVERTISE the "extra" swing is a plus toward sales in the minds of the "decision makers" of the market they serve the most. EG; NOT those who consider gap-bed provision as generally a negative.

In actual service, I'd bet that few of the "plugs" are ever removed, even once.

Those who actually NEED that gap most-often continue to need it, and those lathes just remain open-gapped once the plug has been asided for the first time. Not always the only lathe under-roof. Or so one surely HOPES it ain't!

:)

"Evidence?"


Lot of those lathes out there. Very, very seldom see a cry for help to sort the reinstallation. Either that is not a problem. Or it isn't even being done at all.
 
(Drive out the taper pins)
Sounds alot like peening to me

You are correct plus the factory fit was terrible. I am very tired and will add more tomorrow after a good nights sleep. The young guy didn't realize the tapped holes on the top of the pins were for a slide hammer pull out, so he drove the tapered pins out from the top and egg shaped and peened the cast iron taper holes and that raised the one side up .006". I took pictures, and will add them later. He had never seen anyone blue up a granite plate where Alex and I blued up the bottom of the gap and scraped it flat.

It was burred up around the pin holes. As I scraped that part Alex my new assistant and Grown son scraped the bed using a small granite plate. Then we match fit the two and indicated the bed and gap where they met.

Before we started the bed and gap had a .004" high offset....lol...When we finished after 7 hours it was off. 0003". They turned a 2" test bar and on both ends it was dead nuts, but where the gap and bed fit it blipped .0003" and they said it was 1000% better. The bed was bent a bit too....more on that later....

I told them they should sell the machine now...lol...but they will use it for maintenance work and they said anything accurate they will do on their CNC lathe. I was shocked to the lousy gap fit from the bed and how lousy the tailstock fit. More tomorrow. Good night. Rich
 
I've can honestly say I've never had a problem getting a gap piece back in place and I've played around with a good few over the years. The secret is to get the gap piece seat and the gap piece perfectly clean and burr free. Some operators do this and some don't. The ones that don't are the ones that have problems.

Having said that I've never had to work on a Chinese lathe. The identity of the lathe in question would have been a clue worth having.

Regards Tyrone.

The
 
I've can honestly say I've never had a problem getting a gap piece back in place and I've played around with a good few over the years. The secret is to get the gap piece seat and the gap piece perfectly clean and burr free. Some operators do this and some don't. The ones that don't are the ones that have problems.

Having said that I've never had to work on a Chinese lathe. The identity of the lathe in question would have been a clue worth having.

Regards Tyrone.

The

Even if Richard were to release the lathe brand, it would not mean much as these Asian lathes are sold under many names from the same factory and the factory name is rarely identified on the lathe.
 
I have found that gap bed lathes are not very useful, because even when you remove the bed block and manage to swing your intended work, you would often have insufficient cross feed length for the tool to be able to reach the work OD. Many years ago I owned a Smith Drum lathe with a sliding bed. This was a very useful machine although not very stiff, but even with this machine that was designed to turn large diameter pieces, as you approached the max swing diameter, you still would run out of cross feed length. The lesson here is to always use the appropriate machine for the job. If you don't own it, send it out to someone that does.

I had a similar experience with Richard a few years ago when I bought a 13x40 late model SB (Korean) from the USAF that had been dropped off a forklift on to its front face. The damage was not the bed. It was all the broken hand wheels, bent shafts and smashed power control box. Those replacement parts took 6 months to arrive from SB and none of them fit correctly. Each part required hand massaging and custom fitting. The machine had a TA and that differential cross feed shaft was one of the casualties. Think nightmare to get right. In the end the machine was very nice. I still own it and use it a lot, but the cost of the parts and the labor it took to complete the repair did not match the machine's end value. The machine should have remained scrap. I could have bought a new machine for less money. I lust for the new LaBlonde 14x40. That's a nice machine.
 
I have found that gap bed lathes are not very useful, because even when you remove the bed block and manage to swing your intended work, you would often have insufficient cross feed length for the tool to be able to reach the work OD. Many years ago I owned a Smith Drum lathe with a sliding bed. This was a very useful machine although not very stiff, but even with this machine that was designed to turn large diameter pieces, as you approached the max swing diameter, you still would run out of cross feed length. The lesson here is to always use the appropriate machine for the job. If you don't own it, send it out to someone that does.

I had a similar experience with Richard a few years ago when I bought a 13x40 late model SB (Korean) from the USAF that had been dropped off a forklift on to its front face. The damage was not the bed. It was all the broken hand wheels, bent shafts and smashed power control box. Those replacement parts took 6 months to arrive from SB and none of them fit correctly. Each part required hand massaging and custom fitting. The machine had a TA and that differential cross feed shaft was one of the casualties. Think nightmare to get right. In the end the machine was very nice. I still own it and use it a lot, but the cost of the parts and the labor it took to complete the repair did not match the machine's end value. The machine should have remained scrap. I could have bought a new machine for less money. I lust for the new LaBlonde 14x40. That's a nice machine.

Your right on. The lathe was turned over and the owner called me after the young guy had already replaced the saddle, hand wheels and feed screw. I had a real problem trying to protect this young guy as he did not know what he was doing and that was obvious by what he had done. I know the company very well and it's a good place to work and in this area companies have issues finding experienced people. He was a sharp machinist and can run conventional and CNC machines. Mistakes were made before and during their decisions to move and fix the machine themselves.

It was a cheap machine as they only needed a machine to turn small stuff. They said the paid around $6500.00 for the machine and I told them they should have scraped it. They tried to fix it and said they also a huge issue getting the parts and made the mistake in just installing them "as-is". The old cross slide did not fit the new saddle. They made the mistake assuming it would fit. Many shop people assume they can buy parts that will fit much like a automobile part, no fitting needed. Like replacing a feed screw or bearing.

These parts that are suppose to be match fit do not fit with-out a specialist who can scrape does the job. I told the young guy and his bosses who knew he made a mistake but as I said, it's hard to find good help. I was put in a very awkward situation. The young guy said I didn't have to put in the new dowel pins that I refused to do and he also said he didn't care if I took test cuts or level the machine. I ignored all of those things as I am a pro and need to fix things I not only am asked to fix, but find when doing the job for liability issues.

I pointed out the problems I found to the young man, his foreman, the purchasing agent and head of maintenance. I was told "its a cheap machine and as long as it turns straight they could live with the other issues. I plan on writing a letter today explaining things.

The head of maintenance a longtime friend of mine said he told them to scrap the machine when it happened. It was another department and they assumed everything would fit if they ordered it from the factory. As I said it didn't and they slapped it together assuming it would. I pointed out to everyone where I could slide in feeler gages and how the wear pattern was hitting harder in area's of the bed as it was not match fit scraped.

They called me after they could not get the gap insert to fit the bed ways. I fixed that as best as I could. Showed them how the bed was bent near the middle. I took apart the tailstock and used it as a sled to compare the TS ways to the bed ways and they were different. The scraping on the TS was terrible. The gap was never scraped before, it was ground with an angle grinder. They said it never fit even when it was new and hadn't flipped over. I said I could not make a silk purse out of a sows ear.

That is why I insisted we take test cuts and we pinned the gap plus we used lock-tite on the bolts. I though I had taken more pictures but didn't. The lesson here is to not buy cheap Asian made machines. Much like the rules Milicron has. They are not made to the standards we need. You get what you pay for.

I tried to upload pictures, but it's a new system and is not working....signnnnnnnnnn
 
Trying to add pictures in new post: Didn't work. :-(
 

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Your right on. The lathe was turned over and the owner called me after the young guy had already replaced the saddle, hand wheels and feed screw. I had a real problem trying to protect this young guy as he did not know what he was doing and that was obvious by what he had done. I know the company very well and it's a good place to work and in this area companies have issues finding experienced people. He was a sharp machinist and can run conventional and CNC machines. Mistakes were made before and during their decisions to move and fix the machine themselves.

It was a cheap machine as they only needed a machine to turn small stuff. They said the paid around $6500.00 for the machine and I told them they should have scraped it. They tried to fix it and said they also a huge issue getting the parts and made the mistake in just installing them "as-is". The old cross slide did not fit the new saddle. They made the mistake assuming it would fit. Many shop people assume they can buy parts that will fit much like a automobile part, no fitting needed. Like replacing a feed screw or bearing.

These parts that are suppose to be match fit do not fit with-out a specialist who can scrape does the job. I told the young guy and his bosses who knew he made a mistake but as I said, it's hard to find good help. I was put in a very awkward situation. The young guy said I didn't have to put in the new dowel pins that I refused to do and he also said he didn't care if I took test cuts or level the machine. I ignored all of those things as I am a pro and need to fix things I not only am asked to fix, but find when doing the job for liability issues.

I pointed out the problems I found to the young man, his foreman, the purchasing agent and head of maintenance. I was told "its a cheap machine and as long as it turns straight they could live with the other issues. I plan on writing a letter today explaining things.

The head of maintenance a longtime friend of mine said he told them to scrap the machine when it happened. It was another department and they assumed everything would fit if they ordered it from the factory. As I said it didn't and they slapped it together assuming it would. I pointed out to everyone where I could slide in feeler gages and how the wear pattern was hitting harder in area's of the bed as it was not match fit scraped.

They called me after they could not get the gap insert to fit the bed ways. I fixed that as best as I could. Showed them how the bed was bent near the middle. I took apart the tailstock and used it as a sled to compare the TS ways to the bed ways and they were different. The scraping on the TS was terrible. The gap was never scraped before, it was ground with an angle grinder. They said it never fit even when it was new and hadn't flipped over. I said I could not make a silk purse out of a sows ear.

That is why I insisted we take test cuts and we pinned the gap plus we used lock-tite on the bolts. I though I had taken more pictures but didn't. The lesson here is to not buy cheap Asian made machines. Much like the rules Milicron has. They are not made to the standards we need. You get what you pay for.

I tried to upload pictures, but it's a new system and is not working....signnnnnnnnnn

I've also been in the position of trying to protect the operator when he's made a complete mess of a job/machine. It's a very tricky situation, you don't want to see the guy fired but you need to tell the truth regarding the repair. I don't envy you but you have my respect for doing your best not to drop the guy in it.

Regards Tyrone.
 
The factory had ground out the centers 20 thousands. Brian, who taught you to scrape? ME after you self taught yourself... and you know if I could I would have got it better!! That picture was taken during. That was a sows ear and I wasn't able to make it a G&L Silk purse. That Asian machine was a BIG sows ear before I worked on it.
 
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I've also been in the position of trying to protect the operator when he's made a complete mess of a job/machine. It's a very tricky situation, you don't want to see the guy fired but you need to tell the truth regarding the repair. I don't envy you but you have my respect for doing your best not to drop the guy in it.

Regards Tyrone.

Thats the only time its good when the other guy is a a hole , you havent got the urge to protect them
 
I wasn't commenting on your scraping job I was commenting how bad it looks like it fit to begin with. With machining marks like that on a precision fit surface it seams it would be hard to call it a machine tool.
 








 
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