1978 clausing colchester 15" x 50" restoration
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  1. #1
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    Default 1978 clausing colchester 15" x 50" restoration

    Hello everyone. I'm new to the forum and new to the machining world. I recently purchased a new to me clausing colchester lathe and am in the process of trying to get it up and running. I've already started cleaning it up, replaced the main disconnect (it was cracked and missing lugs), and replaced the broken "motor running" indicator light. I'm having some trouble removing stubborn cutting oil and swarf deposits, this stuff is caked on pretty thick all over the entire machine, and I'm gonna apparently go through a ton of degreaser or cleaner to get that stuff off. What do y'all recommend to remove the crud that covers this machine and what would be the best method (scraping, wire brush, toothbrush, etc) to clean it? Also if anyone reading this knows where to get or has 12" 4 jaw d1-6 chuck for cheap that would be awesome. Also looking for a tailstock and coolant tank/ pump/ motor. The whole coolant system is missing. Any help in the right direction is much appreciated. Thanks guys and girls.

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    Welcome to the group!

    I'm not certain, but I think your lathe might be very similar to (or identical to) a Colchester Triumph 2000 lathe. In that case, you might find it useful to join this internet group, which is specifically for Colchester lathes.

    [email protected] | Home

    There are typically at least a few messages a day there, so plenty of active members.

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    I use bronze wool and brass brushes, or strips of brass on flat surfaces. No risk of scratches. The bronze wool is harder to find than steel wool. I get a coarser grade and it will last a long time. Strips pulled off and wrapped around a wooden dowel will work for bores. For threaded holes and some bores I use brass or nylon firearm cleaning brushes. Do not "screw" them in if they are oversize as they will not want to reverse rotation.

    As a solvent I mix up a version of "Eds Red" firearm cleaning solvent. It is about 30% ATF, 5 to 10% Kroil, and the balance mineral spirits. The ATF has detergents in it, and it and the Kroil leave a protective film.

    For old hardened grease the best thing I have found is Berrymans B-12 carb and choke cleaner.

    For all the above use in a well ventilated area.

    For a water based cleaner I use Dawn, as that is what I have at hand.

    There are lots of ways to come up with a coolant system. Finding a tailstock will be harder.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ballen View Post
    Welcome to the group!

    I'm not certain, but I think your lathe might be very similar to (or identical to) a Colchester Triumph 2000 lathe. In that case, you might find it useful to join this internet group, which is specifically for Colchester lathes.

    [email protected] | Home

    There are typically at least a few messages a day there, so plenty of active members.
    I believe you might be right. I've been seeing references to that particular lathe in my early searches for information or a manual for my lathe. I'm not sure but I believe the triumph is the European counterpart to my lathe. I could be wrong (most likely am), but that appears to be the case. Thank you for the response and the link. I will definitely give them a visit.

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    Ballen, I believe you might be right, as I have seen references to the triumph in my searches and thanks for the link. I will definitely check it out. J_R_Thiele, thanks for the information. I can believe i didn't think of gun cleaning oil! That would probably work very well. I definitely look forward to trying these ideas out. Hopefully got a line on a phase converter this weekend and might be firing it up for the first time very soon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitespot View Post
    Hopefully got a line on a phase converter this weekend and might be firing it up for the first time very soon.
    Since the coolant system is missing, there is only a single 3-phase motor in the system. If it were me, I would just purchase a VFD sized for that motor, with a single-phase input and 3-phase output. This costs at most a few hundred dollars new, is simple to install, and will give you full variable speed control and excellent motor protection. If you add a coolant system later, just use a cheap 2-phase motor and pump.

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    A really good cleaner that is pretty safe and not noxious is Super Clean, it cuts grease really well and is safe on your skin, or so they say. I haven't had any problems using it and it does work very well. You can find it at Napa stores and some of the big home box stores also carry it. I take a plastic scraper if I want to save the paint or a metal one if not, get the large chunks off, spray 100 percent Super Clean on with a cheap weed sprayer, let it sit a few minutes and use a stiff plastic scrub brush and go to town. You can rinse of with water or solvent and it is amazing how well it works on years of grime. I have a Clausing Colchester 17x80 that I am restoring and have used it with great success. Best of luck!

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    Default Clausing colchester resto

    Quote Originally Posted by n4015c View Post
    A really good cleaner that is pretty safe and not noxious is Super Clean, it cuts grease really well and is safe on your skin, or so they say. I haven't had any problems using it and it does work very well. You can find it at Napa stores and some of the big home box stores also carry it. I take a plastic scraper if I want to save the paint or a metal one if not, get the large chunks off, spray 100 percent Super Clean on with a cheap weed sprayer, let it sit a few minutes and use a stiff plastic scrub brush and go to town. You can rinse of with water or solvent and it is amazing how well it works on years of grime. I have a Clausing Colchester 17x80 that I am restoring and have used it with great success. Best of luck!
    Cool man. One question. Where are you finding parts for your restoration? I'm not having a ton of luck. Of course that may be because I'm not looking super hard. 😆 Seems like the people I'm finding want an arm and a leg for rusty old parts or don't have what I need.

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    I have the same lathe. Suggest looking at British sites for tailstock and spares. This lathe is common over there and frequently broken for spares. Homeandeorkshop.co.uk, gandmtools.co.uk would be a start and ask them for other folks breaking lathes as well.

    Btw, don’t get confused by German’s talking about two phase motors. They actually mean single phase, they just don’t understand North American split phase electrical distribution. ;-) Personally I’d agree with Ballen and keep the three phase motor and run off vfd.

    L7

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitespot View Post
    Cool man. One question. Where are you finding parts for your restoration? I'm not having a ton of luck. Of course that may be because I'm not looking super hard. �� Seems like the people I'm finding want an arm and a leg for rusty old parts or don't have what I need.
    Try " Nobilla " in Stevenage in the UK.

    Regards Tyrone.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nitespot View Post
    Cool man. One question. Where are you finding parts for your restoration? I'm not having a ton of luck. Of course that may be because I'm not looking super hard. �� Seems like the people I'm finding want an arm and a leg for rusty old parts or don't have what I need.
    Stateside your best source for parts (love it or hate it) is ebay.

    If its warm enough you can spray it down with varsol or diesel, then start scrubbing. If its colder than 70F you might want to try some purple cleaner, but note it may wrinkle the paint if left on more than a minute or two, all depends on quality/durability of the paint. I spray, scrub, wipe and rinse with water.

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    For a tail stock and other parts, call a fellow named Al. His prices are reasonable and he is very responsive.
    His number is Four-One-Nine-698-3733

    Paul


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