Best way to repair quill in cast irion sleave.
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  1. #1
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    Default Best way to repair quill in cast irion sleave.

    Have a older drill press that has lots of slop. Tapper on the quill is .020 and the cast iron sleeve is wore just as much. Here is what I am thinking,

    Turn the old quill down ( non chrome finish), use some kind of bearing build up epoxy pour to fit.

    Turn down quill and install brass sleeves in body.

    cut a cap in body and try to squeeze the head bore together.

    Take 3 brass set scress and apply pressure around the bore, so that the quill will ride on 3 contact point.

    Throw the hunk of shit away..

    What you guys think?

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    It is only a drill press.... Scrap it.. Unless you are using it for practice...

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    LOL....now here is another good example why you need to buy a new digital camera. I do like the way you are experimenting or day dreaming on machine rebuilding / repair.

    As a friend and teacher I am delighted you have the "Fix-it" up fever. If I remember your drill press was a Chinese piece of dung, wasn't it? If it is a good American built Delta I would consider replacing it unless your into restoration and want to get famous on You-Tube. If it was a Tail Stock on your lathe that would be a different matter. On it I would grind the quill and chrome it up and regrind it. Bore and then hone to size using a Sunnen Honing machine. I have also bore out the front end of the TS Bore and made a bronze bushing for the bore............... but back to your question.

    You wrote:

    Turn the old quill down ( non chrome finish), use some kind of bearing build up epoxy pour to fit. (Answer) NO... Grind the quill and pump in some Moglice..maybe ..

    Turn down quill and install brass sleeves in body. (Answer) better idea then # 1 but still NO but has some potential but you would need to accurately bore the hole and sleeve.

    cut a cap in body and try to squeeze the head bore together. (Answer) Worse Idea then# 1 and a BIG NO

    Take 3 brass set screws and apply pressure around the bore, so that the quill will ride on 3 contact point. (Answer) I have actually down this is a fast repair job and this depends on ..see below..

    Throw the hunk of shit away.. (Answer) Yes, if it is a Harbor Freight or Enco Brand you had in the corner. Buy a new one, less stress and you can scrape in the table for fun. LOL

    What you guys think? (Answer) It's late and time to go back to bed :-) Rich

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    Quote Originally Posted by RC99 View Post
    It is only a drill press.... Scrap it.. Unless you are using it for practice...
    Ya, I hear you mate. Its that with what I replace it with is going to be junk as well. No one makes anything good any more, It all junk. Cars, wreches, jacks, drill presses. JUNK JUNK

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    Rich, when ever I read your post, I always end up laughing. hahah It is a Sears Chraftsman, Bob Villa him self said it was mint.
    I got rebuild fever, !!!!


    Quote Originally Posted by Richard King View Post
    LOL....now here is another good example you need to buy a new digital camera. I do like the way you are experimenting or day dreaming on machine rebuilding / repair.

    As a friend and teacher I am delighted you have the "Fix-it" up fever. If I remember your drill press was a Chinese piece of dung, wasn't it? If it is a good American built Delta I would consider replacing it unless your into restoration and want to get famous on You-Tube. If it was a Tail Stock on your lathe that would be a different matter. On it I would grind the quill and chrome it up and regrind it. Bore and then hone to size using a Sunnen Honing machine. I have also bore out the front end of the TS Bore and made a bronze bushing for the bore............... but back to your question.

    You wrote:

    Turn the old quill down ( non chrome finish), use some kind of bearing build up epoxy pour to fit. (Answer) NO... Grind the quill and pump in some Moglice..maybe ..

    Turn down quill and install brass sleeves in body. (Answer) better idea then # 1 but still NO but has some potential but you would need to accurately bore the hole and sleeve.

    cut a cap in body and try to squeeze the head bore together. (Answer) Worse Idea then# 1 and a BIG NO

    Take 3 brass set screws and apply pressure around the bore, so that the quill will ride on 3 contact point. (Answer) I have actually down this is a fast repair job and this depends on ..see below..

    Throw the hunk of shit away.. (Answer) Yes, if it is a Harbor Freight or Enco Brand you had in the corner. Buy a new one, less stress and you can scrape in the table for fun. LOL

    What you guys think? (Answer) It's late and time to go back to bed :-) Rich

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    you mentioned a cast iron sleeve, can you not make a new sleeve sized for the quill?

    Charles

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmikkalson View Post
    Ya, I hear you mate. Its that with what I replace it with is going to be junk as well. No one makes anything good any more, It all junk. Cars, wreches, jacks, drill presses. JUNK JUNK
    That is why so many seek out old iron. If you do the brass setscrew trick as a temporary life extension it will give you time to seek out and purchase an older US made drill press. FWIW I have heard many times that the Taiwanese Mill/Drills can be very satisfactory as a substitute for a drill press if you limit them to drilling only. Both these and older US drill presses often show up on craigslist.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmikkalson View Post
    Have a older drill press that has lots of slop. Tapper on the quill is .020 and the cast iron sleeve is wore just as much. Here is what I am thinking,

    Turn the old quill down ( non chrome finish), use some kind of bearing build up epoxy pour to fit.

    Turn down quill and install brass sleeves in body.

    cut a cap in body and try to squeeze the head bore together.

    Take 3 brass set scress and apply pressure around the bore, so that the quill will ride on 3 contact point.

    Throw the hunk of shit away..

    What you guys think?
    e) Find somebody with a HBM and pester him to do the job for you for a case of XXXX Gold*

    Seriously though, if I had to, I'd sleeve the bore and turn the quill down. However it's not a trivial task for a couple of reasons. Firstly fixturing could be tricky, and that will depend on what equipment you have available and/or how much time you want to put in to it. If the pedestal goes right through the head it would be easier to setup, but still would probably involve turning up jigs etc to hold the head upside down while you bored it. The other reason is there's generally a rack and pinion gear on this type of drill press, and I presume yours is the same. It's not a show stopper but complicates things a little and will limit how much you can turn off the quill without finding yourself in other grief. It's definitely do-able, but it would very much be a labour of love and there's just not enough love in the world to put the effort into a Craftsman drill press!!!!

    * XXXX Gold is a brand of fluid, generously called "beer", sold in Eastern Mongolia and similar parts of the world.

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    New idea, I need to build the quill up .030. I was think I.God using a epoxy.I just don't see that lasting. Or using a bronze sleeve and turn that down.

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    Have it nickel plated then Chrome plate it...

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    Quote Originally Posted by swatkins View Post
    Have it nickel plated then Chrome plate it...
    I can only dare to guess that cost on that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmikkalson View Post
    I can only dare to guess that cost on that.
    Until you check into it how will you know? It might be better than you thought? You will want to have it plated oversize and grind back down to size though.

    Charles

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    Turn down quill straight then brass sleeve but them (the sleeves) being also end caps perhaps 1/4 added to be about 1/2 total riding on quill at each end..It originally lasted for so many years and you may not even live that long so seems a possible go..

    But with your solution "Throw the hunk of shit away" should be closer to the top because after all that other work and time is invested you may wish to keep it even if it still doesnt work.

    Eastern Mongoliaian beer...? yes save one for me.


    *Still we were taught the lay out lines, the measure and the punch mark made the spot not the drill press.

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    Scrap the old drill press and pick up a 1959 era Craftsman unit like I have. My Dad bought it new in 1959. The quill is still excellent and so is the 1/2" Jacobs Chuck. It's been run hundreds and hundreds of hours since new and it's still working. You can find them on eBay and C.L. for around $100.

    This is the model that I have. They are good!

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    XXXX Gold is a brand of fluid, generously called "beer", sold in Eastern Mongolia and similar parts of the world.

    Still you need some MooseSick to go with Mongolian beer when drilling holes with such a drill press...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTCJ5hedcVA

    Fishing lakers through a drill hole in the Ice with MooseSick and a cold beer is my kind of day... perhaps as good as it gets.

    Ontario don't you wish...

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    Quote Originally Posted by bmikkalson View Post
    I can only dare to guess that cost on that.
    not much....but the process is hard chrome plate (quite different from what the hot rod crowd expects). Under $50 for sure (at least that's what its been for me the few small i've had done.....Just had two 18" cylinders on a 300T press done it was only 440 ground!) It's done to build up OD. Hone or lap bore it goes into them cylindrically grind to fit. Don't sweat it if you don't have the grinder, hard chrome places usually are also grind shops and will do it for you.

    if this is a POS drill press, toss it...but if nice one that's how you do it. btw, if the DP doesn't have the split casting so you can adjust, its probably a POS (imo)

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    Is getting the quill turned, spray welded, then ground a possibility? If you can't grind it turning and polishing would be fine.

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    In my opinion a cheapo and or not that good drill press still has one very handy use. Sit it in a corner and set it up as a deburring station with a countersink in it and a few sizes set close by. I have a cheapo homedepot Rigid drill press that I got for free by using up some credit card points from the corporate card I got at my first job out of school. It sits right next to my mill and the thing is quite handy. It hasn't drilled more than maybe 5holes its whole life. Those usually get done on the mill, but most parts that come off the mill quickly get a fast deburr on the drill press first. It is often a lot better than breaking down setups.

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    Quote Originally Posted by michiganbuck View Post
    XXXX Gold is a brand of fluid, generously called "beer", sold in Eastern Mongolia and similar parts of the world.

    Still you need some MooseSick to go with Mongolian beer when drilling holes with such a drill press...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTCJ5hedcVA

    Fishing lakers through a drill hole in the Ice with MooseSick and a cold beer is my kind of day... perhaps as good as it gets.

    Ontario don't you wish...
    Well, that's quite some tune. It hasn't yet made the charts down here, for some strange reason, but I guess it's only a matter of time.

    Speaking of fishing, I was hoping my comments would attract a bite from my Mongolian comrade, but sadly nothing. Possibly too busy polishing his pink lathe ... Or using his HBM ....bastard!!!

    On a more serious note, plating sounds good in theory, but I personally wouldn't expect the wear of either the quill or the bore to be even, with the latter bell mouthed I would expect. Putting an even coating of glorified snot on the surface isn't really going to bring the machine in like new without other work, and then you're back to the same problems of how to fix the head for boring etc as suggested above.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete F View Post
    On a more serious note, plating sounds good in theory, but I personally wouldn't expect the wear of either the quill or the bore to be even, with the latter bell mouthed I would expect. Putting an even coating of glorified snot on the surface isn't really going to bring the machine in like new without other work, and then you're back to the same problems of how to fix the head for boring etc as suggested above.
    not theory, its how its done. the plating is to build up material, The plated OD as well as the ID get machined as part of the process. Clearly not worth it for many, many machines/instances, but that's how you fix wear/inaccuracies between a sliding cylinder and its bore.


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