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Biax 7EL part dimension needed

metalmagpie

Titanium
Joined
May 22, 2006
Location
Seattle
My 7EL's leather strap was gone when I got it. So is the forward strap attachment piece.

The latter part (the forward strap attachment) is apparently a sheet metal part that is captured by a black hex cap nut. You can see the black hex cap nut in this picture:

99335d1392193454-biax-7el-assembly-repair-biax-pictures-036.jpg


So the attachment probably has a clearance hole for 25mm threads in it. At the other end of that missing attachment piece, where the strap attaches, should be a slot about 5/8" wide and 1/8" tall. The narrow part of the leather strap goes through that slot, folds, and comes back to be riveted. The strap belts to the other attachment point on top of the machine.

I need the dimension between the 25mm hole and the 1/8" slot in order to make a new front strap attachment point part. If you can post this dimension, it would be most welcome.

metalmagpie
 
I haven't separated this from the strap because it's riveted, but you can see the design. There's a tubular roller just visible to reduce chafing on the strap, and the upper portion where the strap attaches has a bend of about 45 degrees forward for additional clearance. The slot at that point is about .80" or about 20mm.

Biax strap clip sm.jpg
 
I haven't separated this from the strap because it's riveted, but you can see the design. There's a tubular roller just visible to reduce chafing on the strap, and the upper portion where the strap attaches has a bend of about 45 degrees forward for additional clearance. The slot at that point is about .80" or about 20mm.

View attachment 282659

That's just about what I'd figured from looking at pictures on the Web. But none show it nearly as clearly as yours.

Wonder how to add a tube roller to that part.

metalmagpie
 
That's just about what I'd figured from looking at pictures on the Web. But none show it nearly as clearly as yours.

Wonder how to add a tube roller to that part.

metalmagpie


The traditional way would have been to form the roll, mostly closed and then finish in assembly. It doesn't have to be able to rotate. If you want to know how a roll might be formed I've got something in a book or could just sketch the fixture. For my money I'd just braze a rod on the end, You could fab the flat part with an open end and slot the ends of the rod for a shear joint.

You're a machinist, use what makes most sense to you.
 
I needed one too for my 8EL ... first one didn't work as the leather I bought was too soft and strechy ...

Second one I made with 3/4mm leather and it was more than "Man enough" to cope with the scraper weight ;)

John
 








 
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