Biax Scraper Blade Attachment
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  1. #1
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    Default Biax Scraper Blade Attachment

    My Biax 7/EL came with a clamp piece and what I think is a hard rubber pad to clamp the blade in place. The rubber is shot, and there is no way to clamp the newer, thin blade, it just falls out. The 8/E came with just a cap screw and washer to hold the blade, so I think I can do the same for the 7/EL. The 8/E has slots to hold a clamp piece, but I don't know if it ever had one. Here are some pictures. the 7EL is on the bottom:

    biax_3.jpgbiax_2.jpgbiax_1.jpg

    I've always used the short blade on the 7EL, but I have read some of Richard's posts recommending the use of longer more flexible blades, so I would like to try the new blade.

  2. #2
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    Contact Ed Dyjack and he can set you up with the rubber piece (or you can make one)

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    I made one out of some 1/8"-3mm rubber sheet. that one has lasted 5 years, although it needs replacing before the next major job.

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    The Scraper with the direct mounted Blade ist the special one for flaking, this one can't be yoused for scraping.

    The rubber insert is conical, a flat rubber will not work.
    The spare part is quite cheap (about 8 € in Europe), i would recommend buying a new one.
    biax-gummi.jpg


    greatings, Franz
    from the Lüftinger Brothers

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    I just restored my ‘ol blue’ #7 and the little rubber pad is just that. A piece of rubber. I was told during the scraping class not to over tighten it. Hit the hardware store and grab and knife. Works great.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. #6
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    I made one a couple of weeks ago from 95 shore rubber. Had 3 failed attempts at cutting one out with a hacksaw so I cut one over-sized and ground the sides flat on my bench grinder.

    I didn't think they were available as a part or I'd have bought one.

  8. #7
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    The factory rubber inserts aren't that expensive. They poop out with time and should be replaced when they become hard or raggedy. Keep a spare in the scraper box along with the spare brushes, the leather roll for your scraper blade collection, tools etc. I have all that plus string, suspension spring, tube of blue and a syringe of diamond laping compound each in a telescopic cutter box, a couple of hand scrapers, and some shop towels for packing. It's tight and you have to assemble it like a puzzle but it's a grab and go package.

    Where was I? Old farts. Following their conversations is like chasing butterflies.

    Rubber inserts. Dapra has them. Not expensive.

    BTW, scraper blades for the Biax are easy to make. The factory blade shank is 4mm thick, mere thousandths from 5/32" Starrett stock. Saw out, fettle, and slot a dozen blanks, make up what you need and stash the rest. Silver braze carbide tips on them. DIY scraper blades cost about $8 apiece in materials. Or buy official Biax blades for... what? $45 each? Your choice.

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    In metric parts of the world, 4x20mm is a standard gauge plate size, so it only needs cutting to length, slotting (4x20mm) and the carbide silver soldering on. Drill a hole in the shank at the radius you want from the end and you can stick it on a peg and swivel it, while grinding, to get the desired tip radius.

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  12. #9
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    I looked in the box, and there was a spare rubber part among the detritus in the bottom. Thanks Forrest. Ahh, yes old farts...

    I do like the longer blade, plus it has the advantage of being thinner and able to get into a dovetail.

    If I had a photo of the project you guys would double over laughing. I'm scraping the cross slide ways on the saddle of the 1940 10EE, which is back in the corner between a Vidmar and Monarch tool cabinet, so I have a pair of step stools, one on each side, which serve to provide a reasonable work height (I'm not even going to try holding a Biax at chest height). Imagine a 16x16 shop with two Deckel mills, drill press, carbide grinder, drill grinder, Syncrograph, work bench, four Vidmars, two Monarch tool cabinets and three surface plates, and piles of Porsche heads and carburetors. Barely room to turn around, let alone make space around the lathe for scraping.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    Imagine a 16x16 shop with two Deckel mills, drill press, carbide grinder, drill grinder, Syncrograph, work bench, four Vidmars, two Monarch tool cabinets and three surface plates, and piles of Porsche heads and carburetors. Barely room to turn around, let alone make space around the lathe for scraping.
    Now why don't you expand your shop and you can get even MORE machines in!

    Some great threads here as I need new rubbers for my 7EL too

    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by rimcanyon View Post
    ...(I'm not even going to try holding a Biax at chest height)....
    No need to.

    Remember in my ramblings above where I mentioned suspension spring? I use a plain old home center screen door spring for a tool balance. The whole arrangement consists of a length of standard sliding garage door track (105676 for a 6 ft length. Lengths to 12 ft available), the Stanley 4 wheel trolly (112227 ) that fits it, a screw eye to connect the string to, a length of better quality string, and the suspension spring. Attach the track overhead aligned along the long axis of the surface to be scraped.

    Rig the string and spring with a clever knot that quickly adjusts, attach the spring, and hang the Biax in a basket hitch from a second piece of string tied to make a sling about 15" long. Adjust the Biax to be level hands off about 2" off the scraped surface. This makes flat scraping almost effortless and gives you several inches of free lateral motion (depending on the height of the track) while the trolly follows longitutunal. Without it you'll fund a college education for your chiropractor's kids.

    I made a pair of lightly built wooden horses 8 ft tall to support the track at either end. This makes it easy to position the track vertically over the work. If the track is long enough, you won't tangle with the legs of the horses.

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  17. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by medsar View Post
    Contact Ed Dyjack and he can set you up with the rubber piece (or you can make one)
    Anyone have an up to date email for Ed please ... I used [email protected] last week and it bounced

    John

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    DAPRA now accepts credit cards...they are the USA distributor of the BIAX scraper and Ed Dyjak is one of the distributors like me. Call them direct. Tell them your a student of mine and they should give you a small discount, 1-800-243-3344 or DAPRA.com

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  20. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richard King View Post
    DAPRA now accepts credit cards...they are the USA distributor of the BIAX scraper and Ed Dyjak is one of the distributors like me. Call them direct. Tell them your a student of mine and they should give you a small discount, 1-800-243-3344 or DAPRA.com
    Thanks Richard but I'm looking for email address's (I'm not ringing the US from the United Kingdom) for small bits.

    Sorry Rimcanyon - trying not to crash your thread!

    John

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    John,

    Dapra lists [email protected] for inquiries, apparently both product information and sales.

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    Ed just hooked me up with a rubber cushion plus a spare. Each a bit over 3 bucks. Did the whole deal with paypal.

    I used the email above. Worked fine for me.

  24. #17
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    I now have a Facebook page where along with this PM forum you can get all your answers. My page is the same as my company name. King-Way scraping Consultants. You need to answer 3 questions to join. Plus we ask for members to respect others and no guessing. That rubber pad is tapered and cost around 3 dollars. Home made flat one are loose, better then nothing.


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