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  1. #61
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    i have had one of those, it was amazing

  2. #62
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    I am waiting for the weather to warm up for the drilling head movement battle but the are many little thing to look at, to get the machine back into service,
    The oil system is a Brown&Sharpe gear type pump, and this Cuno oil filter.
    These filters are common on WW2 era machines, they are self cleaning, pushing the oil from the outside to the center.
    The filter is made from hundreds of thin disk, and scrapers in a stack, the oil goes through the spaces, the sludge is caught on the outside.
    When the handle is turned, the sludge is scraped off, and falls into the compartment the filter is in.
    These are not as efficient as modern spin on filters, but I think is good enough to leave in place for this application.

    This drill had very little use the filter, and the compartment were clean, and no sludge.

    I have an Axelson lathe with the same filter, it is 3 times longer. I was told by an old timer not to change it over to a modern element filter, because the machine needs good flow for the spindle brake to function well, as the valve is designed to have internal leakage for continuous flow to other components when the brake is on.

  3. #63
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    Too late to ad to the last post,
    I was able to move the drill head over enough with screw jacks to knock the broken bearing race around to the top, taking the pressure off.
    It is down hill from here, the last serious problem.

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  5. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    I am waiting for the weather to warm up for the drilling head movement battle but the are many little thing to look at, to get the machine back into service,
    The oil system is a Brown&Sharpe gear type pump, and this Cuno oil filter.
    These filters are common on WW2 era machines, they are self cleaning, pushing the oil from the outside to the center.
    The filter is made from hundreds of thin disk, and scrapers in a stack, the oil goes through the spaces, the sludge is caught on the outside.
    When the handle is turned, the sludge is scraped off, and falls into the compartment the filter is in.
    These are not as efficient as modern spin on filters, but I think is good enough to leave in place for this application.

    This drill had very little use the filter, and the compartment were clean, and no sludge.

    I have an Axelson lathe with the same filter, it is 3 times longer. I was told by an old timer not to change it over to a modern element filter, because the machine needs good flow for the spindle brake to function well, as the valve is designed to have internal leakage for continuous flow to other components when the brake is on.
    Whatever you do don’t ever try to take one of those filters apart. It’s not a good idea, I’m speaking from experience here.

    Regards Tyrone.

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  7. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tyrone Shoelaces View Post
    Whatever you do don’t ever try to take one of those filters apart. It’s not a good idea, I’m speaking from experience here.

    Regards Tyrone.
    I have the same experience.

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  9. #66
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    I did take apart the Cuno filter in the Axelson lathe, it is three times longer then the one in the photo,,,, it took 5 hours to get it back together, but it is very clean!
    The one in the drill has rivets instead of screws,
    Sounds like I fell into the trap like Limy, it had screws, so.....

    I am still working on the head movement on the arm of the drill, I was able to heat the area hot enough to melt bees wax into the ways surfaces.
    The head moves easier using screw jacks, but I am running out of useable distance for the jacks, and need to unstick the head where it sits now.
    The best plan I have for now is keep using heat, and applying wax. When the parts cool down, the wax is squeezed out, and in deeper.
    I have a ridiculous amount of time in this drill now, I will just keep plugging along like its normal.

  10. #67
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    There is still a radial drill in my driveway with a stuck head on the arm movement!
    I am making progress, but it is slow. I was able to heat the portion of the head that slides on the arm hot enough to melt bees wax into it 2 times, then using a pry bar to help get the wax into the rusted area by moving the head a little.
    A minor problem now is the stores have run out of the small green propane cylinders, so I think I can borrow a weed burner and use the 5gal cylinder.
    It still takes heat to move the head off the rust, I will be doing that for awhile it looks.
    I am moving forward on other parts of the machine that need attention like the electrical. At least the machine is 220volt, the small lift motor is single voltage.
    At the very top of the column is this slip ring and brushes. This is how the column can be spun around without wrapping up a power cord.
    The power cord comes up from the bottom and energizes the center cylinder that is attached to the columns inner stationary post and the brushes are attached to the outer column that rotates on bearings.

    I think from the wasp nest, the machine was in the weather for 3 years.

  11. #68
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    Look like those wasp had one heck of a colony in there. Bet that would have been one heck of a lightening storm if power was energized while they occupied that housing!

  12. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4GSR View Post
    Look like those wasp had one heck of a colony in there. Bet that would have been one heck of a lightening storm if power was energized while they occupied that housing!

    Are you thinking about the dielectric value of the nest of of the wasp itself? And is half a wasp just half the value?

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  14. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by TGTool View Post
    Are you thinking about the dielectric value of the nest of of the wasp itself? And is half a wasp just half the value?
    One thing is for sure: Amps X Volts = Wasps (not)

    Denis

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  16. #71
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    The electrical compartments are the dry spots those wasp like.
    I took a break from this machine, and worked on another for a while. Coming back and taking another look, the only way to free up the head is to cut out the second glide bearing, there is just no other way to get the clearance needed for the head to move. The bearing is not rolling, it is froze and skids.


    This is looking at the other glide bearing from the end of the arm, I can reach it about 3 1/2" back from the side of the head. I am going to carefully burn the outer race in pieces with a torch....
    This is why the machine was tossed out, not an easy fix.

  17. #72
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    Moving in a forward direction, but have to take some small steps back, like getting a new hose, and a fresh cylinder of acetylene. I cut the glide bearing across, being only able to use a brazing tip to get deep in there.


    I found a way to fool a cheap camera to work shooting down a hole.
    After I let things cool down, I am going to probe and try to push the bearing outer race around, and cut it again.
    I have a brass shim down low to protect the ground bar the glide bearings roll on. Most of the slag blew back in my face, saving the machine from certain damage!
    More to come, as I fix precision machines like a farmer.

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  19. #73
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    In America you can always find a party,
    In Russia "PARTY" finds you

  20. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dresden View Post
    In America you can always find a party,
    In Russia "PARTY" finds you

    In Russia, the workers pretend to work and the state pretends to pay them.

  21. #75
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    I got the last glide bearing out, the head moves on the arm. All done!
    Thanks for the interest.

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  23. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by donie View Post
    I got the last glide bearing out, the head moves on the arm. All done!
    Thanks for the interest.
    Congratulations!!

    I have enjoyed following along, keep posting as you continue to bring this machine back to life.

  24. #77
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    Dang! No more pictures?

    Good luck with it, I've enjoyed the thread, too.


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