Help! Bought lot of really cool machines and hand tools - Page 3
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  1. #41
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    Hard to say without a better description and more pictures.
    If only the central foot moves, I'd suspect it's a sort of radius gage (i.e. measuring the radius by three contact points Possibly, it could be used to inspect how egg-shaped are cylinders and large bearings.

    Paolo

  2. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by isaiahprivratsky View Post
    I know what the micrometers are and what most the hand tools are I know the boring bar is and what not, really was just interested in getting some help in trying to figure out how to use the valve seat grinder which I now know how to do but can anyone tell me what the gauge in the red case with the three feelers is?

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Looked at your pics, not seeing "gauge in red case with 3 feelers", please post a pic of just that item and repeat question.

    I'll give what I remember about valve grinding, someone else can correct me. You grind valve + or - .5 degrees of angle you cut the seats. Collet should grip valve stem at the wear area close to head of valve. Dress your stone every 4 valves. Feed valve slowly into wheel until it touches, then start sweeping face of wheel as you continue to feed. When you see valve face clear, stop feeding, continue sweeping and let it spark out a little. Back out, stop machine, rotate valve by hand and inspect for minor pits BEFORE removing valve from collet.

  3. #43
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    The two probes facing outwards do not affect the gauge face at all though that's. Why I'm confused. Although I did have similar suspicions myself.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  4. #44
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    The 'feet' are to help center it in the hole. The back plunger should move in and out a small amount, and move the needle on the face. If not, something is broken or seized.

  5. #45
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    Like was said before- You have some engine rebuilding tools, not really machine shop equipment at all.

    IMO, there is a ton of what you have out there for low prices or just not selling anymore because using those tools it is very difficult to be competitive machining any engines built in the last 20 years.

    I would suggest finding an engine builder that uses modern equipment and asking for a quick tour and an explanation why you need that kind of equipment to be competitive. Once you watch a CNC hone work you'll understand why that shit you hauled home isn't going to earn you a living.

    I would not want to do automotive engine work. Deal with know-it-all assholes all day. Continuously having to justify why you are charging money for the services you offer. A never ending stream of parts running through your caustic tank. People that skip out paying their bills for cleaning parts that are cracked.

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  7. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by isaiahprivratsky View Post
    The two probes facing outwards do not affect the gauge face at all though that's. Why I'm confused. Although I did have similar suspicions myself.

    Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
    Do yourself a favor and throw that dial bore gauge in the trash. Even on a good day that gauge repeats plus or minus a little bit.

  8. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by gappmast View Post
    Do yourself a favor and throw that dial bore gauge in the trash. Even on a good day that gauge repeats plus or minus a little bit.
    Not too be a wise ass, but so does every measuring tool made, the magnitude of the “little bit” being the key.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  9. #48
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    Dial bore gauge ....with all the distance pieces ....thats the important part.....the dial gauge is removable ,and replaceable ,so theres not a lot to go wrong ,if you use a bit of care using it ,its certainly compatible with the accuracy youll get with a portable boring bar......any case ,never trust youre measurements always bore under ,and hone out to piston fit by feeler and pull gauge..........Ya cant go wrong.More or less.


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