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  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by pikolo View Post
    the motor has no label on it....i am assuming it is a 5.5 kw motor as my lathe is the same size and model as the one in this thread UMA 17 lathe so i thought that i have to take a bigger vfd so as to be able to run it..i would definately like to use a smaller motor but cant remove the one that it is on the machine i dont know why or how it is stuck...i will post pics when i will be in this part of rebuilding...
    It is not reasonable that a motor is "stuck".

    They are only very rarely grown in-place from a fertilized egg.


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  3. #62
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    well I realize I am not the best welder on the planet but rather

    Nor am I. I know this so I complete a little practice before I manufacture something. The best welders are the ones who weld each day.

    It would appear that the metal was not spotless so the welds got polluted. I see this sort of look when my protecting gas isn't covering the weld zone.

    Hit them with the light once more.

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  5. #63
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    I wonder about your reading and writing skills also.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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    Are you planning on using it on 240Volts single phase
    How big is your fuse then
    Also wire your motor for 220 volts then

    In Amerika a 50Amps fuse in a domestic house is normal perhaps Not so over here
    16 Amps is the max you can use here
    If that motor has no plate on it first thing I would do is check the RPM of the motor Low RPM motors are big
    You can do that by selecting a certain speed of the spindle and then turn it by hand 10 turns for example and see how many revolution the motor makes then
    Also check if its single or dual speed (single speed normally 3 wires going into the motor dual speed has 6 wires normally)
    You can also try to get a manual

    Peter

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  8. #65
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    PfH,supply is generally 60a or 90 a,allowable wired in (stove ,for example) is 30a,wall socket 16a,light circuit 8a.....as for young David 407,possibly he is partaking of a vegetable material legal in Colorado......and Holland too,nicht wahr?

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  10. #66
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    With no data tag, any discussion of how to power that motor is just wild ass guessing, it could be 208v, 240v, 380v, 400v, 415v, 440v, 575v, or 600v. Not sure if a motor shop could even determine voltage and Hp just by inspecting, they could by rewinding it, but thats just crazy talk.

    I'd suggest keeping an eye out in the scrapyard from whence the lathe came for another motor, 5 Hp 1750 rpm and matching the voltage you have available. When you get to it, show us the motor you have and how its held in place, BEFORE you screw it up and create more work for yourself

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  12. #67
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    thank you all for your replies... right now i try to make it look good so as to reassemble everything...in a week i believe that i will be able to deal with the motor issue....till then a photo of the proggress and as a reply to ripperj you are right...you wrote"I wonder about your reading and writing skills also" i apologise for not being good at it...the final colour is mat and i have marked it with an arrow..

    img_20190706_105751.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by pikolo View Post
    thank you all for your replies... right now i try to make it look good so as to reassemble everything...in a week i believe that i will be able to deal with the motor issue....till then a photo of the proggress and as a reply to ripperj you are right...you wrote"I wonder about your reading and writing skills also" i apologise for not being good at it...the final colour is mat and i have marked it with an arrow..

    img_20190706_105751.jpg
    Umhhh... "Get the big rocks into the jar FIRST"?

    Generally wise to deal with known-gnarly mechanical issues - such as getting that motor OUT and something-or-other back IN.. before going "final" on the cosmetic ones.

    Hard to believe you won't mess-up at least SOME of that nice "final" paint job...

    PS: If you expect to be able to wipe it clean rather than fight a chronic attempted skin-disease of swarf, smut, biological infections? Semi-gloss as a minimum, high gloss / clearcoat better-yet.

    Otherwise, with a flat or matte finish having even the most minor tooth or eggshell to it?

    You've only built an oddly-shaped Petri dish. May as well have covered it in fake suede leather or Herculon upholstery fabric.

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  15. #69
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    well i intend to paint the inside too....and this cant be happen when the motor is in...the paint is mat so if something happens i just sand a little and then just reaply more paint...the interior of the lathe is covered with dust and petrol...and all this made a mass that is gummy and very difficult to remove...

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    Quote Originally Posted by pikolo View Post
    well i intend to paint the inside too....and this cant be happen when the motor is in...the paint is mat so if something happens i just sand a little and then just reaply more paint...the interior of the lathe is covered with dust and petrol...and all this made a mass that is gummy and very difficult to remove...
    Grab a large container of "Goop" or similar basic-cheap abrasive-free "waterless" hand-cleaner.

    "Fertilize" the lathe's innards. Go do sumthin' more productive. In due course, re-apply.

    Now.. it won't burn, doesn't stink for a really long time if neglected (bacteria eventually eats of it..) and UNTIL bacteria-laden won't even much bother ungloved hands.

    What it does do, and rather well, though, is sort of soak-through the damndest accumulations of hardened sludge and filth, wet or dry, to where a plastic putty-knife gets that crap out of the corners and a disposable-grade chip-brush debrides the rest.

    Cleanup uses up a good deal of paper or recycled-lint "shop towels" (from India, mostly..), but it won't even bother most paints, nor pose any significant disposal hazard even if one fills a bin with dirty toweling.

    Way easier on YOU, on paints, wire, shock mounts, bearings, anything subject to rusting, than highly volatile solvents, or lye ("purple" this or that) and verdamnt water.

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    Some more work today...i also decided to unmount the motor....not the best idea as i find no way of replacing the motor with a smaller one 1.jpg
    2.jpg
    3.jpg
    4.jpg
    5.jpg

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    Looks like a fairly standard face mount motor, any chance you found a data tag now that its out?

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    Quote Originally Posted by pikolo View Post
    ...not the best idea as i find no way of replacing the motor with a smaller one
    Don't make a problem out of a solution. Face-mounts are easier to deal with, even if an adapter ring or plate has to be added.

    Compare their "natural" shaft-axis alignment with having to SHIM each of the feet of a "foot" mounted motor - worse, largely by trial-and-error, getting useful measurments gnarly the whole time, and you can soon come to appreciate the blessing of a face-mount.

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  23. #74
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    i have found no data for the motor....a friend told me that on an other machine similar model there is a 4 kw motor. Changing this motor to anoher one seems a lot of work especially now that this gearbox has a clutch on it...

  24. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by pikolo View Post
    i have found no data for the motor....a friend told me that on an other machine similar model there is a 4 kw motor. Changing this motor to anoher one seems a lot of work especially now that this gearbox has a clutch on it...
    Dunno if it was "a lot of work" nor for whom, but so was learning how to use a toilet instead of a diaper at some time in most folk's lives.

    Bet it took a great deal longer to finally get it right than it does to gin-up a motor swap, too. Especially as I don't recall being allowed to use any power-tools - nor even measuring instruments - in the toilet-training process.



    Measure the face, its bolt-circle, the shaft diameter, the diameter and length of the existing motor. and the diameter/ wire gage of its power leads. height above baseplate/feet to shaft centreline as well for other-than face-mount, or for those as are "both".

    You can then find its "frame" or family off online tabular info, be it Euro-spec/IEC (Metric) or NEMA (US).

    And if you do not HAVE TO swap it?

    Just don't.

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    Looking at motor pics and try to judge size by what else is in the pics, which is horribly inaccurate, 4Kw/5ish Hp is about what it looks like. But that still leave you with the question of what voltage? Without a data tag, guessing voltage is above my pay grade. You can ASS-U-ME its the same voltage available in commercial buildings in Greece (I have no idea what voltages are available there), but you never know, maybe previous owner knew voltage required and it did not match available voltage, or since they could not figure it out either, it got scrapped.

    Follow thermites suggestion and measure everything on that motor, then start a new thread in motors/transformers section on just that motor, maybe others can narrow it down. Or if there is a motor repair shop close by lug it over there and let them have a look.

    Me, I'd be looking for a motor with same frame size and shaft size, with a data tag for voltage, so its an easy swap.

  26. #77
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    its not that easy caus the motor shaft is modified so as to have the coupler on it ...we wll see,...a friend of mine told methat i can run it with a small vfd that i already have ...i will post when i have news...for now i am cleaning the gearbox..

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    The progress so far
    img_20190727_094326.jpgimg_20190727_094152.jpg

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    The machine is almost done and i am trying to convert it to an electronic gearbox so as to be alble to cut threads....Some questions that i would like to be answered if it is possible
    Would a 8 Nm closed loop servo motor have enough power to drive the carriage? I am also thinking of connectng a ballscrew to the carriage and wondering will it be possible to move the carriage by the handwheel if a ballscrew is attached to it ?I mean i would like to use it as a manual lathe too

  29. #80
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    update.jpg some update. Any comments are welcomed!

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